Behringer Audio Players & Recorders - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Incorrect loudspeaker wiring/loading or too much volume on a low voltage mains supply that causes the amplifier to trip out intermittantly.

Toroid Transformer is used in power supply not with headphones out. Headphones out are directly connected with headphone amplifier IC. (Note that the difference in 4700 and 8000 is number of channels. Rest of the circuit diagram is same). Behringer HA 4700 PowerPlay Pro-XL ' SynthXL - FREE Service Manual

The B207 MP3 player sucks I keep getting ERROR messages I ran a MP3 cleanup program MP3VAL and it helped but I am still getting 'Reading' and then ERROR and I also tried another completely new B207 with the same results. ANY other mp3 device works!!

When a heavy item is dropped onto the top of a control, it can break internally. I would check the encoder switch is working correctly, if not, replace if needed.

Im having the same problem too. when i'm turning on the speaker, without having plugged some cable or jack on it, it sounds like blowing air (or like a storm).

Check the routing and toggle the buttons. It may be a tarnished connection.

HI.. Does it power up ?? If you put signal into it.. do you see the signal LED flicker ? the LIMIT led ?? Need more info.

Also how do I reconnect the fan? It sounds like you may have a broken potentiometer (aka volume knob) for the master volume control. If that is the case, you would need to replace it with a new one (or take it to an electronics technician to diagnose and repair). Regarding the fan disconnection, this likely isn't causing your issue but you would still want to reconnect it as it keeps your amplifier cool while in use. Reconnecting is fairly straightforward - all fans have 2 or 3 wires that connect to corresponding terminals on the amp. Just make sure you don't mix up which wire is positive and negative, and make sure they are connected firmly and securely.

I would order new cable price = quality. CBI cables with neutrik connectors.

Hi, Please test the loudness of your device with a third-party decibel meter. This will give you a clear measure of whether the loudness of your device is changing with increase in volume. It could be that your surroundings are absorbing the increased sound. Thank you.

is there a noise reduction setting thats on

Either contact Behringer www.behringer.com where you will find the specifications, or buy a fuse and holder (you will need to buy the socket too) at any electronics component store. I found suitable fuses at au.rs-online.com (for Australia) Suitable fuse for Australia is T 2.5 AH 250 volt rating listed at $4.00 for the standard version and $64.47 for a fuse with IP68 (International Protection rating) For the US you would need the 5.0 amp version, same prices. You just need to check the socket design and compare with the products offered online for design compatibility. Cheers, Don.

Question edited to spelling or 'Europower'. I am a but confused by the question but here is the manual dealing with a monitor. Page 5, 10, and 11. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/214306/Behringer-Europower-Pmp1280s.html?page=5&term=monitor&selected=1#manual ..

The channels are setup according to the model. If you have stereo (2 channel L/R) then you cannot get 5 channels out of it. To do this you need a card that is 5.1. If your card IS 5.1, then i would enable the channels in the audio mixer for the card.

Check your cabling first.

It seems to me that you have a bad transistor, T14 or T13 to be precise. T14 most certainly is in short circuit or its companion T13 (T14 is a small signal NPN transistor whereas T13 is a small signal PNP transistor). I just fixed one with the same symptoms as yours. You should be able to measure T14 collector voltage against ground (metal chassis) and the reading must be very close to +15VDC. Also, measure T14 emitter voltage to ground and the reading must be very close to -15VDC. If any of those voltages is compromised, you will not be powering the amplifier's operational amplifiers (U4, U5, U6) right. Check T14 and T13 with your multimeter and replace them as needed. Also, keep in mind that after replacing any of those transistors you will be required to readjust the BIAS current for your amplifier's drivers, which by the way, is a very easy task to accomplish. You know your BIAS current is misadjusted when your output transistors get really hot even under no signal conditions or when your amplifier distorts at very low volume levels or on high frequencies amplifying. To adjust the BIAS current for channel 1's driver transistors, wait until the amplifier has cooled down, locate and adjust VR3 until you read 80 mV across R2. To adjust BIAS current for channel 2's driver transistors, locate VR6 and adjust it until you read 80mV across R106. You need to wait until the amplifier cools down to set BIAS current right, If the output transistors' heat sinks get hot before reaching proper BIAS current adjustments, wait until they cool down to average room temperature and retake BIAS current adjustment. Once both channels BIAS currents have been readjusted, apply a thin coat of thick nail polish to the sides of VR3 and VR6 to keep vibration from misadjusting BIAS currents again... T14 goes down under severe BIAS currents shifting and it just makes me wonder as to why BEHRINGER does not apply a setting substance to VR3 and VR6 so they do not shift under sever vibration conditions, after all, almost any major amplifier manufacturer in the world does it. Good luck!

Horn not working on Behringer B215XL passive speaker. Tools used: Long(12") phillips screwdriver, adjustable spanner, magnet pen,multimeter,1.5 v battery short length of wire, hot glue gun, soldering iron, solder, 24volt 75w halogen bulb G6.35 available from music shops or ebay. Remove the speaker output nuts, and four screws that hold the Speakon connectors on the back. Remove the 18 screws that hold the case halves together using a long shafted phillips screwdriver. I used a magnet pen to recover the screws from their long tunnels. Note that the two holes have shorter screws, and that the screws underneath the handles Carefully pry the halves of the case apart and disconnect the four speaker wires. Check the resistance between the tweeter terminals using a multimeter which should approx. 3 - 5 ohms. No resistance = dead tweeter. Using a 1.5v battery touch the + end to one of the tweeter terminals and briefly run a wire from the other terminal on the speaker to the - ve on the battery. It doesn't matter which way round the battery is for this test. You should hear a click which will indicate that the tweeter is functioning. Don't use any battery with a voltage higher than 1.5v . Peel back one side the white insulation material away from its glued points, unscrew the four screws and remove the crossover unit The crossover uses a 24 V 75w halogen bulb as a fuse. In my case the bulb was ok but the bulb holder had become detached from the circuit board, which I detected by using the continuity setting on my multimeter. I removed all the glue, unsoldered the connection from the rear of the board, fitted new legs to it and resoldered. I fitted a new bulb and re covered with a generous blob of hot glue to stop it vibrating loose. Refit the crossover unit, and reconnect the speakers, the terminals are marked +/-. Tweeter + yellow - blue, woofer +red, - black. Now's a good time to connect to a sound source to check all is working. Using a hot glue gun reattach the white insulating material to the inside of the speaker case. Refit the jack nuts and four Speakon connector screws on the rear of the case. Gently replace the front cover and all the screws noting the position of the shorter and thinner screws. Hope this was useful.

The speaker could be broken and the wires inside of the speaker are frayed and loose and should be replaced.

Got asilimar problemwit a behringer europower pmh 3000. my The Right channel began to crack up and drizzle now it seems completely dead. Changed the cables both of input and seapkers , still the problem stays the same. Any suggestion before brigning for a month at the repair shop? And get out with a 200-400$ bill ?

Contact Behringer directly with your request.