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No, you shouldn't smell fuel! This could suggest a fuel supply issue. Get a Good mechanic to look at it as this could be anything from a leaky pipe joint, fuel pressure regulator problems or injector issues.
There are Good mobile mechanics available if you can't get the car to a garage.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 10, 2019


Take it back to your Audi dealer pronto for a quick and thorough assessment.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 09, 2019


this is going to be a case of a little brute force and a lot of luck, get hold of the key with a pair of pliers and pull, firmly keeping the direction straight,hopefully will come out and not break, or take to a dealer who may well be able to strip down the ignition and remove it that way , your choice and good luck

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 06, 2019


I feel sorry for you, just visit this link and I'm sure that the problem will be solved

https://www.reliable-store.com

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 05, 2019


I had the brake light switch replaced by a local dealer. Cost was $140 and it fixed the problem. Have driven the car for two weeks since and no lights and all systems normal.

2004 Audi... | Answered on Jan 05, 2019


yes if the fan is cooling the engine,, as you are driving, it will automaticly come on when the engine reaches a certain temp,, because every motor has a tempature thomostate ,, if the thormostate is damaged, the fan may stay on or to long,, just be sure to check with a mechanics at a auto shop near by just to confirm that its working properly, if you need anything you can find it here>>www.discountbargainprices.com

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 04, 2019


Not sure what the oil pump and carb have to do with eachother, the oil pump is usually driven by the distributer drive so may be the timing is off, recheck the distributer timing and go from there

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 04, 2019


Computers are taking over everything on your vehicle. Traditionally, components like the steering, the parking brake, and the gas pedal used to require mechanical linkages. Nowadays, computers and electric motors can take care of all of these functions and more.
Electronic Power Control (EPC) is a computerized ignition and engine management system. It is used by other systems on the car such as stability and cruise control. Any faults with the EPC will likely disable other functions on your vehicle so it is important to keep the system maintained and functional. A warning light on the dash will let you know when an issue has been detected in the EPC system.

What the EPC light means

Since the EPC is used on multiple other systems on the vehicle, it is likely that other warning lights will be illuminated on the dash as well. Typically, the stability control and cruise control will be disabled and their respective lights will be illuminated as well. The check engine light may also come on to show that the engine itself isn't operating at normal efficiency. To try and protect the engine, the computer can limit the vehicle's throttle and the car may feel sluggish as a result.
You will need to get the car scanned for trouble codes that can be used to identify the problem. Once repairs have been done and the codes cleared, everything should return to normal.

Is it safe to drive with the EPC light on?

Like the check engine light, the severity of the problem can vary greatly. If this light comes on, you should have the car checked out as soon as possible to prevent any significant damage from occurring. If your vehicle is limiting your throttle to protect the engine, you should only use the vehicle to take it to get repaired.
Common issues with your car's EPC are malfunctioning sensors which just need to be replaced. However, the issue can be more serious so don't hesitate and have your vehicle checked out as soon as possible.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 03, 2019


Say Eliz make sure your radiator is full of antifreeze and make sure your over flow is at proper level.. If your low on fluid at all the heater will not get hot water to it to work properly .. this is a good start if it has been working in the past ... and thanks jerry

2002 Audi A4 | Answered on Jan 02, 2019


If your flaps are opening and closing you may have a air pocket in the heater core, research bleeding cooling system.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 02, 2019


There is a mark on the housing to line up with a mark on the balance shaft gear .

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Jan 01, 2019


The thermostat would not stop the heaters from getting hot . Is flush out the heater matrix make sure water flows nice and free . But I would be looking at the water pump and at the same time flush main radiator and heater matrix at the same time. The thermostat stuck shut will cause it to overheat but not stop the heat out of the blowers.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Dec 31, 2018


Bummer - nothing worse than pulling all the wires to replace wires or the cap, then realizing you're not sure which goes where. That's the 5 cylinder engine right? If so the firing order is 1-2-4-5-3 and cylinder 1 is the first cylinder at the front of the engine.

With the cap removed you should see either a groove or notch under the rotor assembly and/or in the distributor housing under the #1 cylinder. The distributor rotates clockwise.

Otherwise I think the distributor cap has two taller towers for the wires to attach to, when the cap is on, the two towers would be at the "bottom" and the left (closest to front) tower would be cylinder 1.

You can also look for the TDC mark on the flywheel (at the front below the cooling fan, etc) itf that's lined up, the rotor on the distributor will be at or near the spot in the cap where the #1 wire would be attached.

If wired incorrectly the car will backfire, not start, etc. When testing use as little gas as possible to start the car. I don't suggest trying to attach the wires in the firing order sequence, guessing until you have the #1 wire in the right place. But it's been done before by lots of backyard mechanics.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Dec 30, 2018


Clean the electronic eye reader it is dirty,all the best.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Dec 27, 2018


Pull the plug from the heating element in the rear window and attach a voltmeter or a test light. If there is voltage present the problem is in the window element and thus not an easy fix. If no voltage is present at the plug, check for a blown fuse or faulty breaker (assuming a different circuit for the rear window from the mirrors). If the fuse or breaker check out, the trouble is between there and the heating element.

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Dec 23, 2018


It's sounds like you have leak on oil cooler housing

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Dec 22, 2018


Mechanic needs to go back to basics. Engine on the TT isn't easy to get around so checking is no small thing.

Basics, in case your mechanic has forgotten are - timing, compression, the right amount of fuel in the combustion chamber at the right time and a good spark also at the right time.

If you have all those the engine will start and run, the engine doesn't so at least one of those essentials is absent, discovering which one(s) is what checking is all about.

I suggest the immobiliser is checked first. If the mechanic has some decent test gear he should be able to see some live data, oscilloscope patterns, etc., even at cranking speed, which would take some of the backache out of the job.
If there is no live data, etc. or what you are getting doesn't make sense maybe the management ECU died or there is a wiring or supply fault. An ECU is often weakened by welding, jump starting, boost charging and other stuff done in the name of car stuff - such weaknesses rarely show up straight away but cause trouble later.

It is also worth keeping in mind it isn't unknown for a catalytic converter to become blocked.
Good luck!

Audi Cars &... | Answered on Dec 21, 2018

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