Audi Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

The most common reasons are listed below. As you vehicle is reasonably new some of the one further down the list will be less likely but it does happen. How long after the repair did the vibration start? If it was on the same day or a few days after take it back to the repairer so they can check their work. On rare occasions even brand new parts can be faulty. It's happened to me with a front wheel bearing. 80 miles and it made more noise than the old one. I would suggest you get the first 2 on the list checked first as these are the cheaper and simpler fixes. Wheel and tyre not balanced, Badly worn tyre, Warped brake disc, Worn wheel bearing, Worn CV joint, Drive shaft out of balance, Worn suspension parts.

when this happens the first place to look at is the fuse box since many atimes the AC and Radio are known to share one fuse, so assuming it got burnt you will need to replace it with a new one . do note that fuse box contain spare fuses for emergency

Did you resolve this issue? If so how as I have exactly the same issue. RegardsRay

The OBD2 port is connected directly to the ECM and data from other modules is shared from there. 'Mechanics' deal with the mechanical aspects of the car, you need a specialist auto electrician. They have the knowledge and experience and the ability to access and read wiring diagrams. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me The first thing to check would be the connectors on the ECM and BCM. Then open them up and look for burned out components. Full wiring diagrams normally require a website paid or unpaid subscription. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Audi+A6+Avant%2C+1.9TDI+wiring+diagram Re-reading the question, did you have one model and year of vehicle and then replace the engine from a different year and model? You can't do that, the ECM has no idea what's going on. ECM are dedicated to the engine it is connected to and programmed accordingly ..

car sold to what country ? what is VIN,m what exact engine options is there books are by full car name spec, engine, VIN, and country sorry we can't guess all that. ask Audi this new care mostly do not have the service manual sold yet. but ask them nobody else has it for sure not published yet. same answer for 100 years.

where does it leak from, investigate, you may need to tank, could be hoses. Unable to investigate take to repair shop.

The trouble code B10AE31 in an Audi Q7 pertains to the air conditioning system. This specific code indicates a fault in the air conditioning control module. To diagnose and resolve this issue, you may want to try the following steps:

1. Reset the system: Sometimes, a temporary glitch can cause the code to appear. Try resetting the system by disconnecting the car battery for a few minutes and reconnecting it. Then, check if the AC starts working again.
2. Check the fuses: Look for any blown fuses related to the AC system. The AC system may not work if there is a blown fuse. Replace any blown fuses and see if that resolves the issue.
3. Scan the vehicle: Use an OBD-II scanner or take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic to scan for any additional trouble codes. This will help identify any other potential issues that may be causing the AC problem.
4. Inspect wiring and connections: Check the wiring and connections related to the AC system. Look for any loose or damaged wires or connectors. Repair or replace any faulty components as necessary.
5. Consult a professional: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it is recommended to consult a professional mechanic or take your vehicle to an Audi dealership for further diagnosis and repair. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to accurately diagnose and fix the problem.

Remember, working on the AC system of a vehicle can be complex and requires expertise. It is always recommended to consult a professional if you are unsure or unable to fix the issue yourself.

Question edited for clarity. Question mover from 'Power computers to model category. It has some strange 'Connector Stations', but check the connection pins under those fuses. To find a full wiring diagram, you need the service manual or a subscription to a site like AllData. https://fuse-box.info/audi/audi-a4-s4-8e-8h-2005-2008-fuses https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+audi+a4+wiring+diagram ..

Question edited for clarity and toss in some CAPS. Question moved to model category. In the link, also check the images tab. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+audi+a6+2.0tdi+bre+engine+serpentine+belt+diagram ..

gee a 20cent blown fuse is cheaper.' check all fuses then scan the PCM for tranny errors. using a scan tool.' there are near 10 on car checks on any failing A/t seems you skipped all that. USA car or not? we oops no 2.4l here USA> so you are posted outside USA and didnt say so first. ours has 7 solenoids in the box. tranny, and if the TCM is not happy how and can it shift right.? and EPC inside to set pressures right. ours uses A6 Quattro; Trans. Code 6HP19A; I say check all fuses., then scan the pcm/tcm then ask for help with P07nn or P17nn errors called DTC's the box is 100% electronic shifted, how can you forget to check status of the TCM./

parts costs for any car , on earth are not the same all over earth not even close, . unless in N,Korea or Cuba. new, used , rebuilt beside the mount error all those error could be just 1. even vacuum leak. P0300 says all cylinders misfire so there other P030x error are pure redundant. cam sensor is serious, in the real world that cam sensor error is very serious. and causes misfire, so misfire is expected why add up cost when you've no clue what is bad. OBD2 DTC are just the starting point of diagnosis the PCM is not AI, not by a country mile ,even to the moon. we cant watch you or the car ( in the secret act) did you crank a dead engine so LONG, that battery went low and now all computers in the car are telling lies, and is common as nails now. this effect.. no symptoms told at all just a DTC dump. no engine told at all and A4 4.2 L V8 40v DOHC >< complex this. seems it is just 1, posted ANON so no other way to know what engine is here. nor there post full of symtoms not told here and what happened the day this all started. engine died? what? starter cranking slow is not good, step 1 on all cars , we keep the battery fully charged till the engine starts to run and stays running and battery volts are 13 to 15vdc, a volt meter tool find that easy. if below 13vdc the alternator is dead or its fuses.blown. also we do not sell engine parts. here. just free advice ,just that. no miles on the car told, over 90,000 miles and the silly cam belt failed. making CAM sensor go dead? the belted cams can not be ignored the belts are changed out at 90k miles 140km https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2005,s4,4.2l+v8,1430752,engine,timing+belt+&+component+kit,5759 good luck , DTC codes are not AI, not at all

Door is open, latch is closed. Use a screwdriver and place it in the latch. Using the door handle, release the latch while pulling the latch open. Now, close the door.

if lucky, and for sure can be. the PCV is bad, (or clogged,) replace it is wise. for sure 14 years old. it is all gunked up and causes huge crankcase pressure bad, and huge oil consumption or worse oil leaks to ground or even blown seals $$$$$$$$$$$$$ no miles told time is not useful for oil , miles is and if driving 85mph, it will use more oil all engines made burn some oil the piston oil control rings do not ever seal 100% if it dead the top rings , seizes and engine is now a wreck. that is the why best is check the levels ever fuel fill up then if ok, skip 1 check or more based on when it drops 1/4 LT. never let it go lower keep it on full, all the time , so oil runs cooler. and longer

buy the service manual in your secret country. ask the dealer first. do not get rumors off the internet if you act on rumor ,and engine blows up, $3000 who's fault is that,? you build engines off rumor? why? the SM does not lie from AUDI learn that 1/2 what you see on the internet are lies, or just silly wild guessing, ok. be safe and not go broke.

no country told, some do not require it. so............ SRS air bags? collision detectors. a4 not quattro or just discrete switch at pump fuel this is Audi not ford, or mazda so do not listen to them ok>? it's an Audi , but no country told 1.8L turbo?????? the switch is not sold in top store,USA for this exact car. now I read the service manual to you. USA: not told a problem with the car, at all just then endless hunts posted here and most fail. learn that all EFI cars can cut fuel 1 or 2 ways, if spark fails. pure PCM logic does that to prevent CRASH and burn other cars with IMMO lamp glowing wrong disables injectors and the pump fuel. both. or just injectors, . I check all fuses first then scan the OBD2 port for DTC errors for sure 100% dead spark. or test the spark, by hand there is no switch at the fuel pump, on our a4 period end hunt the relay drives the pump via fuse so no not checking all fuses first is huge huge failure on all cars failing any kind of electrics then out comes the scan tool or go broke guessing yes some countries, have laws that mandate a switch be added here or on import. sorry cars no not the same all over earth and never will be, ever. sorry,

what was slipping , not told clutch. ? no M/t box here. brakes dead? no. automatic with TC , sure. so fluid leaks there are 1 of 3 kinds ! engine oil (shades of brown)?? ATF red fluid/???? or green antifreeze leaking from say rear freeze/core plug or from intake manifold leaks. coolant or water core heator core leaks or any water hoses leak. I run Prestone and is GREEN today. asking the blind to find leaks is OVERTHETOP. TCC errors, most are bad solenoid inside the box. TC clutch lockup sol. i bet you mean the A/T box slips in all gears?, PRNDL R, D and L> or only higher gears in drive slips, called FLARE or False neutrals causes are huge. for slip 20 year old box. no miles told on Odometer. dash 250,000 miles>? fluid too low sure is if leaking out. (TC seals or pump seals) fluid smells burnt or looks like tar on tip of A/t dipstick a/T Filter clogged. 25 seals inside box leak inside and add up to PUMP overload. bad pump a/t or its regulator bad clutch packs in the box or its slave servo bad. bad shift solenoids , or TCM bad. shifter linkage bad, or cable if is that. or not adjusted by the book some cars only reverse works others, only reverse fails huge list of failures symptoms on any A/t box. not told you.

automatic transmission or manual stick, the brake/clutch switch operations are NOT THE SAME on both car options. no country told, lighting (for sure external) are not the same all over earth, sorry I do not make laws (like DOT USA?) or anywhere. this forum is www, a world wide web forum. so where are you ,a country.? and you work with no voltmeter or service manual schematic. and no scan tool? wow endless guessing done. throwing parts wild. its is modern car, 2009 totally unlike a 1990 or 1980 or older car. for sure. there is never a need to replace all fuses ever, testing is super easy even if they all look good. (did they?). (look test, ohms or volts tests) that melting thing means a lamp shorted. (they can) I see reverse lamps failing and parking lamps the transmission PRNDL SWITCH MUST WORK IN "R" OR THE LAMPS WILL BE DEAD REVERSE. BOTH WERE SO..... I GUESS INDICATOR MEANS turns signals failed( blinkers) the car has 4 corners, why not tell what all 4 do when Turns or parks fail.?>??? what they all do outside matters most. (electrics) the huge problem here is not scanning the OBD2 port with a real scan tool. I bet it tells you why it fails I sure do but you failed to do that. does this car have the parking AID option? does this car have optioin Daytime Running Lamps, a.k.a DRL?>? also wiring for TT is unique so states the SM (service manual) i can't see you work on any car so now comes right parts questioln using only these parts., Rear Turn Signal Bulb

1. Left/right Rear Turn Signal Bulb M6
2. Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb M8
3. 12 V, 18 W
4. W16W

the German manual calls park lamps TAIL even when front and side park lamps are park lamps. same source. It does call TURNS turns, so we can find the correct schematics, searching the online service manual for you. most modern cars, use BCM to run all that. I call it the body brain each maker uses there names and Germans use CODES LIke J123. to name a model. (that must be decoded first to work the problem, yes a pain on all germane cars) deep in the manual i found the secret german body brain J519 - Vehicle Electrical System Control Module this module runs the whole rear (it has DRIVERS) Drives means electronic high power regulator drivers to lamps. that if it sees a short , it simply goes OFFLINE until cures. then magically goes back on one, J519 - Vehicle Electrical System Control Module M6 - Left Rear Turn Signal Bulb M8 - Right Rear Turn Signal Bulb M9 - Left Brake Lamp Bulb M10 - Right Brake Lamp Bulb M16 - Left Back-Up Lamp Bulb M17 - Right Back-Up Lamp Bulb M37 - Left Rear Side Marker Lamp Bulb M38 - Right Rear Side Marker Lamp Bulb T2g - 2-Pin Connector, In the Luggage Compartment, Right, Black T6k - 6-Pin Connector T6l - 6-Pin Connector, Black T12c - 12-Pin Connector, Black T12d - 12-Pin Connector, Brown X3 - Rear Fog Lamp 395 - Ground Connection 30 (in Main Wiring Harness) 662 - Ground Connection in Left Rear Side Panel 676 - Ground Connection 2 in Luggage Compartment, Left ------------------------ J519 is here Behind driver's left stowage compartment, beside steering column -2 Fuse 7 (On Fuse Panel C)? blown fuse? this car uses CAN BUS. many of the switches wire directly to the J519 Body brain but not all. lets look at that now, (my book is USA only SM) the steering switchs for park, turn and heads. are all sent to the cluster brain directly, then the cluster brain via the CAN_BUS network sends data commands to the J519 (body brain) then if this fails the scan tool told you it did but you never scanned the OBD2 port. while failing others found water leaks to dash module (windshield cracks or glued in wrong and leaks) some Audi versions 2009 have top of brake pedal brake switch that must work, and is direct drive signal to J519 TURNS are not switch actual direct drive to the J519. no. example 1 U1113 Audi Code lacking scan tools you will never fix this by guessing. sorry CAN Bus wiring intermittently open, shorted to power or ground U0001 U0155<< lost comms to IP cluster. and more lots and lots more possible we check all fuses in all fuses boxs A ,B,C etc. then scan the OBD2 port. for errors. for sure comm errors' see this fuse box? Main Fuse Box in Right Rear of Luggage Compartment on Battery see? drivers (electronic) to each lamp. proof (no fuses to lamps) so if one lamp shorts. the other do not die. by design and J519 must get the commands to turn them on first.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiujvCRl5b_AhVWhIkEHfmpCLUQFnoECBMQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fixya.com%2Fcars%2Ft29857749-removed_replace_rear_fog_light_switch&usg=AOvVaw2ayt80bTogb4ubBM8fB4F7

that vin shows 3L engine. 6 cylinders. p2xyz is audi only oem factory codes and only their service manual covers that. not easy to lay hands on. is this car in Germany ,UK or USA or? P2008 Intake Manifold Runner Circuit Open Bank 1 it can stick in 2 positions when it failed is stuck in idle mode, driving fast will fail. for sure banks out of balance like that, and common , intake runner plates love to fail.

Diagnosis: Basically, the ignition slot thinks the key is in so the lock mechanism is in place, which prevents the key fob from going in all the way. Solution: Insert your finger all the way into the slot. Curl your finger slightly so that the tip touches the bottom. Pull your finger out slowly and your finger will "unlock" the mechanism. You will hear a click sound and also feel it being unlocked. Try inserting your key fob into the slot.