Armstrong Plumbing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Gee, that's a toughie, Bob..... To take performance-enhancing drugs, or not to take performance-enhancing drugs.? .........A* to me

Google him

That unit is not even listed on Armstrong website.

get an electrician

I would suggest getting one of your electrical pals to help you.

If it is 120 volts it's quite simple. First make sure to turn off the heat at the red emergency switch. This will not affect your system. Simply turn the switch back on when you are done. Remove the cover off the small box on the side of the pump. There should be one screw holding it on. You should be feeding the pump with BX cable from the controller (Aquastat or pump relay). Older steel BX carries the ground through the cable, and the connector, but the newer, aluminum BX has a ground wire inside the cable.Remove about four inches of the BX cable from around the wires. Just bend the BX at the designated length until it breaks. Twist the cable clockwise in one hand and counter clockwise in the other. This will open it enough for you to snip the cable,(not the wires) with dikes or tin snips. Or, you can unravel the BX from the open end. Be careful. BX is sharp. Insert a red head (anti-short) around the two or three wires and slide it into the cable leaving the four inches of wire still outside the cable. Install a 1/2" BX connector into the the round opening provided on the box. Screw the nut onto the connector hand tight and tighten the nut by placing a flat screwdriver onto one of the nubs on the nut and tap it around with the heel of your hand or any pliers or hammer if available. Slide your wires through the connector until the cable bottoms out inside the connector. Tighten the connector set screw. Now you have a black, a white, and possibly a green wire inside the box. Strip about 3/4" of insulation off of each wire. The three wires in the box on the pump should already be stripped, but if not, strip those too. Twist the wires together using your hands or pliers. White with white, black with black, and green with green. This ensures a good connection. Now, you can twist your orange wire nuts on to the pre-twisted wires. Use orange nuts because they are smaller and will fit into the small box better than yellow or red nuts. To ensure a proper splice, twist them until the wires start to twist in your hand . Fold the wires into the box, install the cover onto the box making sure not to pinch the wires and turn the emergency switch back on.

Check power to the pump.

Your drain line is clogged with algae. unclogged it using solution with sodium hypochlorite or hydrogen peroxide.

Flow measuring devices out of calibration will cause difference in flow measurement in a series flow system. If the balancing valve is in series with the pump, flow should be equal.

Replace fan motor.

It sounds like your seal is leaking.   You can purchase a new seal kit here.http://find.westsidewholesale.com/search?keywords=armstrong+h32+seal

Hi,
The pump running will not hurt anything except that it takes a bit of electric to run it...

Now, is the t-stat still calling for heat and the furnace just shutting down on high limit?
Maybe you have an air lock and the water is not actually circulating through the pipes, there fore you are not heating properly...

Is the pump relay stuck closed and not releasing so that the pump keeps on running...

These are a few of the common problems and what I would check right when I came to look at your system to troubleshoot it...

heatman101

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Please contact me thru our website at www.arrowmotor.net and include the model information you provided here. We are an Armstrong repair center so I should have what you need in stock. I will send you a scan of the parts print for you to ID the parts you need. If you want a quote on those items we can provide that as well.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Installed a new filter and furnace is running great now. The old filter was not that old, but we have been doing some remodeling and I figure that is what clogged it so fast.

Hi,
The most common problem with these circulators is that the stator gets stuck and does not turn.
Sometimes you can take out the four bolts on the corners and pull the motor off. Get the stator freed up again and it will work. Make sure to turn the water off before dissassembling the pump. Hopefully you have valves do you can isolate the pump.
Also check that the impeller has not broken off the end of the shaft, that also happens sometimes.
You can check the cap. with an OHM meter by switching the terminals with the test leads and the resistance should count down to zero with each switch of the leads on the terminals...if not it is bad, but replacement of the cap. may not fix the pump usually it is a secondary failure...
If you can't get the pump ot work after taking it apart and making sure it turns freely then I would replace the pump.

Heatman101

A line voltage thermostat is just like any other type of switch, except that it's controlled by temperature.

Just wire the 120vac to the pump, but interrupt the hot (black) wire with the thermostat.

Let me know if you need more help.

you should call and contact Bell & Gossett .(847)966-3700 Address: 8200 N. Austin Av. Morton Grove,IL 60053. Ask them that if the part no # 103400 Price $260 fits for your pump Good luck.

I bled air from the rads attached to the system and now the noise is gone from my circulator pump