The model you listed looks way more then a year old. I would guess it to be at least 15ish since it does not have digital controls and still has the main thermostat in the freezer.
If by off, you mean nothing is running then it could be one of two things.
First, open the freezer and look at the left side ceiling and see if it is turned on.This was a big issue on this model and I am never surprised that people have no idea that this is the knob to turn it off!
If it is turned on then you most likely either have a bad timer or a bad thermostat.
In the refrigerator section, remove the light cover and you will see a small hole about 3/8 to 1/2 in diameter. Inside is the manual advance for the defrost timer. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to turn a few clicks (not all the way around) and if it starts then you have a bad timer.
Again,make sure it is turned on in the freezer section.
If that does not work then you will have to unplug it and remove the thermostat to test for continuity while on. Some parts stores can do this for you.
Be aware that these wires are live and it needs to be unplugged before taking apart!
A tightly frozen door could take days to unfreeze inside. Try using a hair dryer around the door seal. It will take awhile to unfreeze the door this way but it is quicker than waiting for it to defrost. You may have had an extreme leak. Turn the water off to the freezer and turn the freezer controls off or set to zero. You are in a pickle! This is not going to be a quick fix.
Sounds like your door seals are not seating causing moisture to migrate past the seal and condense and freeze. Check to see if this is true will small strips of paper. If you place the strip in the door and pull, you should have some resistance. If you pull and it moves freely, your door seal needs to be realigned or replaced
Think of a water faucet.. You turn it on and water comes out and you turn it off and the water stops, right? Now when a faucet gets old sometimes it will drip and you have to jiggle it to make it stop.
In the back of the fridge you have the same basic thing. A valve that opens and closes to allow water to flow.. It is split into two sides, one for the water in the door and one for the icemaker.
One side could go bad while the other still works and that sounds like what is happening. Some have one and some have two depending on if you have a water filter but this one looks to be an oldie but goodie before the water filters were factory installed.
The part# you need is WPW10247599 and I fount it for under 40$. You need to unplug the unit and turn off the water to it. Change the valve and defrost the tube going to the icemaker.repair if needed.
Check that the vent opening inside the fridge is not blocked. Depending on the age, some of them now have a filter that needs to be changed periodically. RepairClinic.com or Sears sometimes are able to give you an answer over the phone as to what else to check.
These Amanda units appear prone to this problem. The fix is use of a drain kit. Your drainage spout is freezing over. The regular spillage is related to the defrost cycle of the fridge. Here is a page listing the kit:
Refrigerator Parts
We hear it described at frogs, mice, opera singer, and many more. It can be the evaporator fan or the damper actuator. Both are fairly easy to replace.
Do you know if you have a mechanical defrost. On the older side by side Amanda's there is the defrost control timer at the bottom in front. Put a screw driver in the slot and advance the timer. If it is stuck everything will be off. Think it's a small red dial. Open both doors, take off the front kick plate and it is under the front. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64
I would say you have a bad jazz board,do this open the right hand side door of the fridge,you'll see on the touch pad the up and down arrows,hold the light switch in and press the down key three times,let go of the light switch press the down button again and i think it says like s and p can't remember but press the down one more time and you should see 4 and 4 or whatever settings you had if you see this close the door,open the freezer, by doing what i told you you manually put it into defrost,if you hear the compressor running the board is bad part WPW10503278 and i have to tell you i've changed quite a few of these boards.also if the strip between the doors are hot check you coil on the bottom,usually when this happens the condenser coil is blocked with dust or the condenser fan isn't blowing,if you ever find the fan not blowing you can get a house fan and blow it onto the compressor and coil this will keep it cool until you change out the fan motor and you won't loose any food but that's another day.your coil might just need to be cleaned or the jazz board could be causing this because the compressor is running longer than it should.if you unplug the fridge,melt out all the ice off of the coil as best you can but the more the better you'll be able to use the fridge like normal for like 10 to 12 days then the coil will freeze up again so order the board melt out the ice with a hair dryer and you should be fine,if you need a hand programming the new board let me know i would tell you how to do it but i don't know if people are getting my answers nobody writes back,so open the freezer door,open the right side door,hold the light switch in,push the down button three times,let go of the light switch and push the down pad again and one more time you should see settings again,close the door,if compressor is running the board is bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUoGLZYv...
one more thing if you remove the bottom kick plate there should be a tech sheet either folded up and it's in the kick plate or it's in a plastic pouch taped up to the floor check right side but could be on left too and clean the coil while you're down there
you could have a bad timer or cold control and the light could have failed from the heat but try banging on the control,not to hard,it can stick when it fails and sometimes a good wack will get it going the timer is also there where the cold control is,there's a hole below the timer,if you stick a flat head regular screw driver up in there you can turn the timer out of defrost, just one or two clicks,if everything starts to run the timer is bad but i would check them if you unplugged the fridge and plugged something else in the plug to make sure you have power there
Yes , your fridge can get stuck in defrost mode. If you can locate the thermostat. Sometimes buried behind a panel in the freezer. There's an adjustment screw or trim screw that allows you to advance the timer on the thermostat. Sometimes they stick in the defrost mode. It may happen once and never happen again. If however it does continue you will have to replace that part.
that is hard to tell.. It might not be defrosting or maybe have a bad fan motor. Freon leaks usually do not happen with Amana's depending on the age/model (you gave no info about this or model#)
You would have to list other symptoms along with a model# for further assistance
Might try defrosting the unit manually,this will let u know if possibly bad defrost timer or heater,or thermister on condenser behind freezer panel try YouTube put in model number,should link you to an APV video.
More than likely it’s not the defrost timer it is most likely to be the bi metal it’s in the evaporator area in the freezer section Refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat Parts #: 12001937 Substitution: 12001937 I gave you the part number all you have to do is order it and install it I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/george_106a9535a98aec8a
