Amana Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

The manual for the W10562495A has a copyright date of July 2013. Since this is a fairly new dryer, I believe it has an on-demand igniter instead of a standing pilot light. Most gas dryers stopped including a pilot light in the 1980s. This is much safer since there is no danger of the pilot going out with the gas still flowing. If your dryer is not working, check the gas solenoid and the igniter. (Use the data sheet that should be inside the dryer. It may be behind the control panel.) If you live in an area that had a history of mining, check your ventilation. I have to open the garage doors to my home after some storms to get more oxygen into the basement. The gas appliances will give an error about "failing to ignite" if I don't. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

if voltage to motor bad motor if no voltage bad timer or switch

If power is going into the machine, through the power switch and into the controller and everything as far as possible is either new or in good condition, power should be going out of the other end of the controller into the water solenoid valve, pump and most importantly the motor. Clearly that isn't happening or your new motor would be happily doing what it is supposed to be doing. I think you should ensure the power switch is good and power is being delivered and if it is, suspect the controller is defective...

The top-loading NTW4610YQ0 washer lid lock has two main parts. The catch is in the lid on the right hand side. (It's part 8 here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/4iuyzkgib8-001268/amana-ntw4610yq0-washer-parts .) The lock assembly is inside the top of the cabinet in the same area (part 14). (There is a bezel around the lock opening, part 11.) Some of these top-loading washers have a small magnet in the catch. If that has fallen out, you can get the door lock failure. You may also need to check the wiring between the lock assembly and the control board. Look for corrosion on the contacts and check the conductors for continuity. If replacing the lock assembly and catch doesn't solve the problem, then the control board may be faulty. (The control board might not be communicating the lock command to the lock assembly.) I hope this helps. Another source of the parts and diagram is https://www.partselect.com/Models/NTW4610YQ0/Sections/Top-And-Cabinet-Parts/?ModelID=6786639&ModelNum=NTW4610YQ0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=FFBE4A55BE392F882CA1266B39A1F1C1FB32E669&Position=5&mfg=Maytag&Type=Washer&Mark=5 . Cindy Wells

Your pressure switch is having problems. Or could be the hose is pinched or some how was disconnected. Here is what the part looks like and you can buy it here. https://www.genuinereplacementparts.com/amana-ntw4800vq0-water-level-pressure-switch-genuine-oem?msclkid=3b99d76add8f196fb92d88442ec2a1ab

This could be several things: 1 the magnetron that generates the wave. 2. The high voltage diode. 3. The capacitor. Since it is a high voltage device and can injure or kill you, if you are not versed in electrical repair and replacement., call for service.

The F8 E1 code indicates a problem with the water coming into the washing machine for most Amana washing machines. This could indicate a problem with the inlet valve of the washer, the water hoses or your incoming water pressure. First make sure that the shut-off valves for the washer water lines are open. Close these valves and disconnect the water lines. Keep a bucket handy to catch the water in the hoses. Check the filters for debris and clean out any clogged filters. (Check both at the shut-off and the washer inlets.) Connect the hoses to the shut-off valves and check how much water flows into your bucket. (Some hoses are designed to limit flooding and restrict the flow when the hose is damaged. Replace the hoses if they are older or limiting your water flow.) Connect the hoses back to the washer. Next do you get water flowing into the washer when you start the machine? If possible, try both a hot cycle and cold and check for different flow rates. (We had the inlet valve on a washer fail to provide full flow for hot water. Replacing the valve cured the problem.) Replace the valve, if it's not opening properly. If you are getting good water flow, you might have a problem with the water pressure/flow sensor. There could be dirt blocking air flow in the tubing to this sensor. Clean out the tubing or replace the sensor. The problem could also be with the wiring or the control board not getting the messages to and from the inlet valve or pressure sensor. I hope this helps. The parts diagrams for the NTW4516FW2 are available from Sears Parts Direct: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/1l5hhsznio-001268/amana-ntw4516fw2-washer-parts . Cindy Wells (With the faulty inlet valve, we were able to improve the water flow temporarily. We took off the hot water line and filled it with household vinegar while turning on and off the washer. This dissolved the calcium carbonate deposits inside the valve.)

Try unpluging power cord to reset. Otherwise, Owner's manual, no manual? Try https://www.manualslib.com

Search on youtube

vacuum or low pressure compressed air

Am technician I need you support me voxy not working engine

I know this is late but I had to add a solution to this problem since I had the exact same problem and was able to solve it. The probelm is not your control board. On these units, the heat pump compressor will not kick in unless the temperature you set on the control panel is within 2-1/4 degrees (or 4 degrees depending on your unit model. Otherwise, the unit locks out the compressor until the electric heat coil bring the indoor temperature up to that level - and then will switch the compressor back on for heat pump operation. So the problem is not the control panel or the compressor, it the electric heat coil. The coil has two manual limit switches on it that may be tripped and should be checked. The coil can be easily accessed by shutting down the power, removing 4 screws around the air outlet, pushing the screen up and sliding the panel out the top. The power wires can remain in place while the limit switches are reset. Hope it works.

Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!

usually in back on top of or near compressor or in the front of fridge u have to remove the panel to see it

pan is usually located on back or front bottom you may have to remove back or front pANEL TO ACCESS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFLbBdZGjDg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Nx8_nbqCVw A grinding noise is commonly caused by a malfunction or failing of one of the following parts of the machine. ... They consist of four small pieces of plastic which, over time, wear out and begin slipping, which produces the grinding noise when the machine is in the agitate cycle. https://www.appliance-insurance.co.uk/appliance-insurance-articles/help-my-washing-machine-makes-grinding-noises/

Goodman Industries has purchased Amana. So go to Goodman website for info. Without model number I cannot look up error code

Did the prong break on the lid?

This could be a bearing or the gas valve.

Hello Dennis; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service technician. You did not provide a model number. So, I am going to speak in general. It sounds like you have a bad or stuck contact switch. Or, you ice dispenser handle is broken and activating the dispenser. You contact switch will look like the following: There are two slots on the bottom of the dispenser frame for a flat head screw driver. Pop the bottom out. The rest of the frame is held by plastic tabs. Push in the sides to remove the frame. Ground yourself by touching something that is steal. Static electricity will knock out a board. Remove the board. You will see the contact switch. Send me the model number and I can be more specific. Go into the following web site and put in your model number for diagrams and the part number. Water Filters Lawn Garden Appliance Parts