Amana Heating & Cooling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


How are you determining that one section.is cold and one warm? If this is in fact the case you have a blockage in the coil or a compressor that is down provided this is a multi compressor unit.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Feb 06, 2019


I know this is late but I had to add a solution to this problem since I had the exact same problem and was able to solve it. The probelm is not your control board. On these units, the heat pump compressor will not kick in unless the temperature you set on the control panel is within 2-1/4 degrees (or 4 degrees depending on your unit model. Otherwise, the unit locks out the compressor until the electric heat coil bring the indoor temperature up to that level - and then will switch the compressor back on for heat pump operation. So the problem is not the control panel or the compressor, it the electric heat coil. The coil has two manual limit switches on it that may be tripped and should be checked. The coil can be easily accessed by shutting down the power, removing 4 screws around the air outlet, pushing the screen up and sliding the panel out the top. The power wires can remain in place while the limit switches are reset. Hope it works.

Amana... | Answered on Feb 03, 2019


I'm leaning 2 directions, one is that your tstat is sensing your heatpump can not keep up with the load. Therefore bringing on heat strips or two, you have a cycles per hour limit set for compressor heating and your machine is cycling too often.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Jan 27, 2019


F1 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board (ERC). F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hot - Replace oven temperature sensor. F3 / F4 - Shorted or Open OvenTemperature Sensor - Replace oven temperature sensor. F5 / F6 / F8 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Jan 20, 2019


Clean the filter and try it again

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Dec 31, 2018


I would guess two possible problems - dirty thermostat contacts and many appliances are also fitted with a thermal fuse or other type of thermal cutout which might have failed.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Dec 13, 2018


How much power is the question. Remember, heating coils usually require 240 volts. You likely are only getting 115 due to a faulty limit switch. 115 will carry through to the other side of the switch from the coil side leading you to believe the switch is good. Remove both sides of switch and test continuity.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Dec 12, 2018


Motor might be bad and shutting down on thermal protection. Is this a direct drive or belt driven ? .if belt driven try adjusting the belt tension or just replaced the motor

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Dec 11, 2018


What turns on the fan, a relay of its own, a defrost board, the compressor contractor? Check for power before and after the contacts. Read the lone or schematic diagram included with the unit if possible.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Nov 01, 2018


It will be one of three issues. Blower motor is bad , capicator, or the control board. Easy enough to check . Use an extension cord , cut off the female end and strip it . You should have a black and white wire. Find the wires leading to the motor take the black and white off the control board conect black to black and white to white. Plug it in an outlet if the motor runs its the control board . If not its a bad motor or capicator. But caps rarely go bad in this use . So most likely motor . Not a hard job , but not eady if you dont have the right tools. Do not bang on the shaft with a hammer . You must use a special tool for pulling shafts.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Sep 30, 2018


It is not switching from cooling into heating. You probably need to have a service tech look at the unit. Sorry. It could be control board or stuck reversing valve.

Amana Heating &... | Answered on Sep 26, 2018

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