Acoustic Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

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It is an indicator. It indicates the power.

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A Bad Connection at the Power, Ground, or Remote Wire is likely. If it’s overworked it’ll shut down before you’ll smell it or see anything glaringly obviously, adjust the gain level down to lighten the load on the amp and see what happens. Make sure you’ve got enough amp. Subwoofer Specs & Impedance would be helpful.

Also, insufficient voltage to the amp will cause that, make sure your power wire and ground are large enough, use 4 Gauge Minumim but I use Zero Gauge for max voltage transfer and feeding the amp with all of the power it needs. Wiring is an issue. Also be certain your alternator and battery are healthy. Upgrade them if necessary, adding a 2nd alternator is simple, a large derp cycle battery(optima yellow top) is worth its weight in gold! Do the big 3 upgrade, google this, it’s just upgrading the wiring from battery to starter and alternator, plus using a larger ground wire to ground engine to frame/body. Huge Difference In Performance & Reliability of power supply to be had and simple for anyone to do with general knowledge. Good Luck!

P.S. I’d run Zero Gauge to your amp ASAP. Just my opinion, ask a few local scorers in the car shops and stereo sections!

use a quality condenser cardiod or super cardiod microphone not cheap dynamic mic esp omidirectional. speaker in font of mic. keep gain on mic to a minimum. do not use mic speaker assembly that the mic and cable are one piece. try to point speaker at hard surfaces as these reflect the sound back

Please type the "acoustic solution ds1233" into the search engine of your computer, and a lost of dealers, and maybe even the factory , will pop-up so you can find the part you are looking for. God bless your efforts.

Use the rotary Tune/Select control on the HiFi itslef, or the two triangle buttons on the remote control to highlight each mode option until it goes to DAB Radio or FM Radio. Short press the Tune/Select control on the HiFi or the Select button on the remote control to select the option. If that works, the manual at the link below is compatible with your equipment. http://documents.4rgos.it/v1/static/7347948_R_D001 http://documents.4rgos.it/v1/static/7347948_R_D001

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website reliable-store.com that i used to buy them from, and they have online it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

The power acoustic BAMF is a really good amp if that’s the amp you are referring to. If you are wanting to go with power acoustic subs the mo fo would be the way to go. The mo fo is an amazing sub. If everything else is going to be power acoustic you might as well stick with that. Power acoustics has some good head units as well.

Re polarity - the diode should have a band nearer one end. This band is the cathode. Usually labelled k in schematics. The un-banded end is the anode. Usually labelled a in schematics. On a standard rectifier diode: The positive + supply enters the diode at the anode and exits at the anode. However, the component's ID is ZD3, which tells me that this is a Zener diode. A zener diode is connected opposite polarity to a standard rectifier diode, as it only conducts when reverse voltage from k to a exceeds a pre-determined level. This is probably part of a voltage regulation or voltage clamping circuit. ie: when voltage on 'k' line which is positive goes above 'X' volts the zener will conduct, shunting voltage to ground or another part of circuit. So on ZD3, band is +. A new diode is advisable, as it serves as over-voltage protection. The caveat is what voltage rating of zener diode you will need. A schematic of the sub will be needed to know this....

Good morning! It would be much easier to help if you could please provide the model number of the unit.

Try the link for answers found this helpful answer from technician on JustAnswer com

Check R9 on the back of the board. When ZD3 goes short, it sometimes takes out R9 as well. It should be 10ohms.

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I have not opened one of those but I have opened similar-looking metal speakers. You probably have to use an awl or sme other pointed tool and gently pry the perforated grille off by working around the perimeter. It may be stuck on with some goo or caulk. Once inside you should be able to access screws.

Relay?? I've never seen a guitar or bass amp with "speaker protection relays"...usually they're either on or off. Check the simple stuff 1st...is speaker cable from head to cabinet and/or the input cable from bass to the amp good? Check the "Direct Out" for a line level signal (must be connected to a PA or other amplifier) as this is your preamp out signal. Also, plug a shielded cable from "Effects Send" to "Effects Return"...this will verify "effects" loop issues if any. Lastly, vibration test...use a clenched fist across the top, sides and bottom of wood cabinet to lightly "jar" the internal circuits. If it starts working even for an instant, I would suspect intermittent connection inside.

Does anyone know how much is a acousticmax hd70 is worth todays is it a rear speaker?

if you have an antenna close to it move it or disconnect it. if it is just feeding through oddly then you prolly need a inline filter...

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you can connect the BA7500G speakers to a regular digital coaxial output by using a cable that has an RCA plug on one end and a stereo minijack on the other. However, the pole of the RCA must connect to the tip of the stereo minijack and the shield of the RCA must connect to the middle ring on the stereo minijack. Also set your soundcard to output at 16bit and 48khz.