OD signal goes on w/ neptune washer w/ lid closed. Technician said it needed control latch assembly ($105) and control board($221). Plus labor ($155). Are these easy to get and replace? Is all this necessary or can some further troubleshooting be done?

You have lost signaling from the Left Hand Lid lock.

The OD code is sent out from the Console main control board when a lid open is not sensed via the signaling from the Left Hand Lid lock for three completed wash cycles.

Google this sticky for help with your issue ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" start at the 5th post down. You will find a link to the service manual and help on troubleshooting your issue.

Washer won't come on at all

I feel you have lost Lid Open/Lid Closed signaling to the Control Board from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. If you remove the Left Hand lid lock assembly I believe you will find a broken wire to the magnetic read relay or severe corrosion on the input and output pins in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.


Take a look at this link Left Hand Lid Lock Troubleshooting and see if it will help with troubleshooting and repair.

You will find a part number for the Left Hand lid lock and parts supply vendor links if you decide to purchase the Left Hand Lid lock.


I would do some troubleshooting by removing the Left Hand Lid lock and inspecting before a part purchase………Rich


The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.


Post back if you have questions......Rich

Hey geonkarla637,

Good job on troubleshooting, let’s focus on the Left Hand Lid Lock. It has the dual signaling functions to allow the Machine to operate as designed. The first signaling function is “Lid is Open/Lid Closed” signaling the “OP” error code for lid is OPEN if you press the Start button at the Start of a cycle or during a pause and resume portion of a cycle and “OD” error code if the machine has not seen the lid open for three completed machine cycles your issue. The second signaling function is “Failed to Lock” the “FL” error code.

Because the Control Board programming is looking for the contact open/closure transitions at appropriate times of the wash cycle from the Magnetic Reed Relay in the left lid lock. I see no way to fool it by bypassing the magnetic reed relay in the Left Hand Lid lock assembly and have the machine work as designed.

What I would do next is remove the Left Lid Lock and very carefully open it up. I found it is very easy to break off the enclosure locking tabs. I use a fine flat jewelers screw driver and X-acto blade and work around the locking tabs to open the case halves. I wedge small paper clip ends in the case halves as I work around the tabs. Again I stress they break off in a heartbeat take it slow and no coffee for 24hrs before you begin this operation …. (:

How do the black and red wire on the reed relay look? If they look like this I would take a low wattage soldering iron fine pencile tip 25W no more than 60W iron and solder back on the broken end if that has happened. If you don’t want to deal with that you need to replace the Left Hand Lid Lock .




I would also use a drop or two of WD-40 on the slide switch in that signals “Lid Is Locked”. I’m going to include a pic of my attempt to document the Left Hand Lid Lock Control Board inputs and signaling outputs. I have labeled the Pins on that lock assembly for my reference, I cannot correlate them one for one to the schematic packed in the machine console. I have measured and watched the +12VDC input and output transitions with my DVM for the Lid Is Closed and Lid is Locked on the Control Board at connector P3. If your Left Hand Lid Lock is signaling correctly out of the assembly then I would trace the +12VDC signaling back to the control board. From your previous troubleshooting you have insured there is no corrosion on the male Left Hand Lid Lock assembly and the mating plug end.


Please let me know what you find, I hope this helps; I’m a rookie owner still learning how to troubleshoot/repair the machine.

As a side note I unplugged the Right Hand Lid Lock and taped up the plug end. I would never replace that lid lock if it failed my choice; I find it helps to simplify troubleshooting.
Good Luck …………..Rich

od means the lid has not been opened for the last 3 completed cycles. here's the manual http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022808.pdf

I’m and owner as you and will toss out this info.

The OD alarm means the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Control Board has not sensed a lid open condition for three completed wash cycles. You can unplug the washer 120VAC power and plug back in and see if that will give you three more wash cycle before extending the OD alarm again. This would only be a temp fix. You have probably lost Lid is Closed/Lid is Open signaling back to the Control Board from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.

Take a look at this post and see if will help you repair the issue. I have some pic's and links in that post that may help. You will need the Service Manual for working on this machine.

I use external magnets over the left lid bumper to accurate the magnetic operated reed relay switch located in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly to check for signaling operation of that magnetic reed relay back to the Control Board. I’m going to start out by having you check out the Magnet Reed Relay signaling from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.

With the Washer Lid open start a quick wash cycle, you should signal an OP alarm to the console do you? If so now close the washer lid the OP alarm should clear if the Lid Magnet is not out of position. If it doesn’t clear place couple magnets on the left bumper as I show in this post. If the OP alarm now clears then the lid magnet is out of position and the manual will show you its location to repair.

If you still trigger an OD alarm then it’s time to inspect the Left Lid Lock Plug and assembly for corrosion issues. See Page 34 of the Service Manual. The technicians thumb is on the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. The Left Hand Lid Lock assembly is not a sealed very well and is subject to corrosion issues with its location near the bleach dispenser. If you are a DIY’er you won’t have any problem getting to the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. The mating plug can be very difficult to remove from the assembly watch your knuckles. Be careful when you open the case halves of the Left Hand Lid lock assembly it is very easy to damage those retaining tabs. Unplug the 120VAC to your machine and follow the manual to raise the washer top from the base. If you have heavy corrosion issues you can clean up with contact cleaner ( I use WD-40) and some emery cloth/fine grit sandpaper. Check to see if the Black and Red wires are on the magnetic reed relay switch solder connections have not broken loose from corrosion. They can be re-soldered back on if they have broken loose. I don’t believe they have if you are not showing an OP alarm at the start of the wash cycle. You may want to squirt some WD-40 into the into the Left Hand Lid Lock plug and re-seat a few times if you have heavy corrosion in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly as seen in the Pic.

If you use a DVM/Ohm meter to check the magnetic reed relay switch make sure you unseat/pull the Left Hand Lid Lock Plug from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly to isolate the signaling leads going back to the Control Board, we don’t want to kill the Control Board with the Ohm Meter. I would only break out the DVM if I had to start troubleshooting signaling back thru the wiring harness to the control boart inputs and +12VDC output to the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. The Control Board would have to be isolated fom the Ohm Meter measurements. I recommend not using a DVM/Ohm meter at this point of the troubleshooting process.

Here is a link for the Left Hand Lid Lock if you feel it would be easier to replace the assembly. Left Lid Lock Other suppliers will have the part I like these folks. Post back if you have additional questions.

Rich

OK this board won't let me post pics so I'll post as a solution, please everyone you don't need to rate.


Lead on mag switch needs to be re-soldered.

It stands for 'open door'. The control board didn't see that you've opened the door since the last cycle and won't start another cycle until it see's that. Probably a bad switch in the door latch assembly. If you can verify a bad switch, it's best to replace the whole latch assembly. It also may be a shorted wire, trace the wiring back from the latch to the board and check for any signs of damage. It's possible, but very unlikely, that the control board is bad. If everything else checks out it's the board.

The OD code should mean that the unit did not detect the door open between your loads. Try to open the door and close it a couple of time to see if it will reset itself. If it doesnt reset, then the problem could be one of three things. The first thing is the door latch assembly itself could be defective. Second problem could be the control board is defective, and is not picking up the code. The other could be the wiring itself running between the door and the control board. There really is no way of testing the control board (which is located in the console itself) or the door latch assembly. BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE UNIT BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING PLEASE. This unit has 2 lid locks, left and right. I believe to remove the front panel you put a putty knife between the top and front panel, approx 2 inches in from the sides, and pop the two clips. Lift the top up and support in a safe way (if it swings down and hits you in the head, the door locks wont be a problem for a few hours). Check he wiring in and around the lid locks, the top, and where they pass all along the route to the console. The control boards on these units are very expensive to say the least. The part numbers for each part are:


Control Board Assembly: 25001217 Approx $175 US
Lid Lock Right Hand: 25001037 Approx $ 23 US
Lid Lock Left Hand: 25001048 Approx $ 23 US

Here is a couple of pages with diagrams that may help you a little better:

Top and lid diagram:

http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=3048&modelDesc=WASHER&modelNumber=FAV6800AWW&documentID=M0602242&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=CONTROL%20PANEL%2C%20TOP%20%26%20LID&titleID=00002&

Front And Cabinet (Note that #14 will be the clips I was telling you about)

http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=3048&modelDesc=WASHER&modelNumber=FAV6800AWW&documentID=M0602242&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=CABINET&titleID=00003&

Let me know if you have any questions whatsoever. Just take note, that replacing one of these parts on a guess could cost you a lot of money. Pleased try to open and close that lid a couple of times to see if anything changes. And please let me know how it turns out, or if you need ANYTHING at all. Thanks and great luck. Jim