SOURCE: MAYTAG STOVE PROBLEM...NEED HELP
the broiler came on automatically??? not a sensor issue. sounds as if you have a broken wire perhaps, or a faulty control panel energizing the broil element w/o being prompted to. does it say its broiling when element comes on??
SOURCE: Maytag MER6772 - Oven bake element not working even after replacing it.
To find service information for your Maytag Model go tothis link
http://www.servicematters.com/
When on this site, click on Maytag Historical Service Library.
Then click on Maytag Service Library.
Click on term and conditions
Click on Literatur by Model
Enter Modle number MER 6772
Clck go
You will be able to print or download the service manual for your model
Your problem may be the bake relay on the clock or wiring.
SOURCE: Re: GE Electric Range JBP67BD1WH Baking Element Problem
Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number
WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
WB44T10010 )
Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks for using fixya.
If this helps, a fixya rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave
SOURCE: avanti er24aw1
Call avantiproducts.com sales (service didn't work) and get a replacement bake element. It was about $35 including shipping. Download the manual from the site and study the structure. Uncover the back cover using standard phillips screw. TO DO THIS, SHUT DOWN YOUR HOME BREAKER AND MAKE SURE THE OVEN OPERATION LUMP DOES NOT LIGHT. OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE EXPOSED TO HIGH VOLTAGE. Additionaly use multimeter to make sure the voltage is not there. Remove back inner cover. You can't remove this inner cover completely because of the thermostat line but try to make a work space in the lower part of the oven. The bottom element cover can be uncovered readily without any screw or pin. At this point you have access to baking element from the bottom of the oven. Loosen two nuts to remove the bad element. Reverse the procedure to install the new element.
oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself... Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly309 views
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