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Here are the general steps to fix the water lines on a refrigerator:
Turn off the water supply valve. This valve is typically located behind the refrigerator or under the sink.
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the water lines. If necessary, unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet.
Inspect the water lines for any visible damage or leaks. If the lines are damaged, they may need to be replaced. If there are leaks, they may be repaired with a fitting or a sealant designed for use with water lines.
Turn off the shut-off valve for the water line that needs to be repaired or replaced. This may be a separate valve for the refrigerator or a main valve for the entire house.
Use a wrench or pliers to disconnect the damaged or leaking water line from the refrigerator or shut-off valve. Be careful not to damage the threads or fittings.
If the line needs to be replaced, measure the length of the old line and purchase a replacement of the same size and material.
Install the replacement line by connecting it to the fittings on both ends, using the appropriate wrench or pliers. Make sure the connections are tight and secure.
If the line can be repaired, use the appropriate fitting or sealant to repair the leak. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the product you are using.
Turn on the water supply valve and check for leaks. If there are no leaks, plug the refrigerator back in and push it back into place.
It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific refrigerator model to ensure proper repair and avoid any damage or malfunction. If you are unsure about any step in the process or encounter any issues, it may be best to consult a professional appliance repair technician.
Figure A: Common leak locations
These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.
Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!
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Replace leaky supply hoses
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines. " title="Unscrew the water supply hoses " style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.
CAUTION!
Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
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Replace leaky internal hoses
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again. " title="Photo 1: Look inside the machine" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again.
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.
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Replace a leaky pump
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby. " title="Photo 1: Loose the bolts" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.
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Replace worn-out tub fittings
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back. " title="Photo 1: Lift the lid" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Buying Appliance Parts
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source iswww.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.
Metal ID plate
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Tools & Materials
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start-you'll save time and frustration.
Hammer
Socket/ratchet set
4-in-1 screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Putty knife
Slip joint pliers
I take it your water line is not copper. It may be old and getting fragile. I would replace the line with copper and check the water pressure in your home to make sure it isn't too high. (the maximum water pressure for a residence is 80psi.)
This sounds like the inlet magnetic solenoid valve is leaking, first thing to try is to turn off the main water valve beside the machine, if the water stops coming in then the inlet water solenoid valve or valves will need to be replaced
Good luck
If your dishwasher leaks, check these: Main tub sealNote… If the main motor of your dishwasher is
mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the
following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is
mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace
the entire pump and motor assembly.The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller.
It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft
of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove
the:
Lower rack
Spray arm
Spray arm support
Wash/drain impellers
Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace
it.
Door gasket or sealOver time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose
their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to
replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valveThe water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But,
the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from
the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or
repair/replace these as necessary.The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick
open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the
dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to
the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
HosesBehind the lower access panel on your dishwasher
are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a
connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose.
****if its the tank supply line and one of the connections is leaking tighten the connection if stops done if continues to leak go to hardware ,home,or plumbing store for replacement $4-7 dollars turn shutoff valve off flush toilet to get most water out of way and disconnect line replace ****----if joint where valve is connected to main water feed if threaded try tightening connection if soldered will need to turn of water to bathroom or house and drain line and resolder connection same of pressure connection/threaded valve failure
If your dishwasher leaks, check these:Main tub seal Door gasket or seal Water-inlet valve Hoses
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.
The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
1. Lower rack 2. Spray arm 3. Spray arm support 4. Wash/drain impellers
Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.
Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.
The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose. thanks for using FixYa
If your dishwasher leaks, check these: Main tub seal Door gasket or seal Water-inlet valve Hoses
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.
The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
1. Lower rack 2. Spray arm 3. Spray arm support 4. Wash/drain impellers
Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.
Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.
The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose. thanks for using FixYa
hi there, dishwasher leaking might be due to either of these causes, check these:
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.
The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
* Lower rack *Spray arm * Spray arm support * Wash/drain impellers
Then try the seal out of its housing and replace it.
Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.
The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose.
If your dishwasher leaks, check these:Main tub seal Door gasket or seal Water-inlet valve Hoses
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.
The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
1. Lower rack 2. Spray arm 3. Spray arm support 4. Wash/drain impellers
Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.
Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.
The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.
Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose. thanks for using FixYa
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