I have a 1959-1962 Honda C102 Super Cub 50cc Scooter, with electric start, that has a 6 volt system, that I am trying to get running. I have a new 6 volt battery, fixed a lot of wiring problems, and was able to make the headlight, taillight and speedometer light to work. I have taken the cap off the end of the starter, and have taken sand paper to the copper part that the brushes ride on, and made that nice and shinny. And the brushes are are making good contact. And I cant get the starter to work. Thats what i have got done. But what i am not sure that is if it is a 6 volt system, should the red wires coming from the harness be hooked up to the negative side of the battery, and the black or (Ground) wires be hooked up to the positive side. Also there is a yellow wire with a red stripe coming from the starter button on the handle bars that runs through the harness down to the battery box area, that I don't know where that needs to be hooked to, can someone help me.

Hi Charles.
this is all i can find on the net.
Start at the red (+) battery post and follow the battery cable to the starter solenoid. On the same top post of the solenoid where the battery is hooked there is another smaller red wire. Follow this small red wire and it will lead you directly to the fuse.
A Cub Cadet lawn mower won't turn over when it isn't getting power to the starter motor to spin the engine. This can be due to a bad battery; loose or corroded wiring; corroded terminals; bad ignition key switch; faulty safety switch; blown fuse; bad starter solenoid; or faulty starter motor.
7 Reasons Your Cub Cadet Lawn Mower Won't Turn Over or Crank You have finally found time in your busy schedule to mow your lawn. You're happy to be able to get it done and out of the way. However, this time your mower won't turn over. I have put together a list of items to check when you run into this problem.
A Cub Cadet lawn mower won't turn over when it isn't getting power to the starter motor to spin the engine. This can be due to a bad battery; loose or corroded wiring; corroded terminals; bad ignition key switch; faulty safety switch; blown fuse; bad starter solenoid; or faulty starter motor.
Make sure you are following all safety precautions as shown in your owner's manual. If you are uncomfortable working on your Cub Cadet's starting system, contact your local Cub Cadet dealer or a knowledgable mechanic.

Dead or Bad Battery in Your Cub Cadet

A dead battery won't provide the power you need to turn over your Cub Cadet. Keep your battery charged, especially during storage, to extend your battery's life. Test your battery using the steps in the article "5 Things That Are Draining the Life of Your Lawn Mower Battery".
Charging a Battery: Use a battery charger to charge your 12-volt battery. Before you continue, wear protective gear to protect your eyes and skin from electrical shock. Follow these steps to charge your lawn mower battery with a charger:

• Access the battery and terminals. You may need to use a screwdriver to uncover the battery. Do not remove the battery from the casing.
• Connect the charging cables beginning with the positive cable first. This is the red cable or the one with the plus sign. Place the cable on the positive battery terminal.
• Attach the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. This is the black cable or the one with the negative sign.
• Do not touch anything that doesn't have a rubber coating to prevent electrocution.
• Set the charger's voltage and amperage level to the desired level. The average volt level for lawn mower batteries is usually 12 volts. More amperage charges the battery faster. Start with two camps and work up to no more than 10 amps. A slow charge is best.

If the battery fails to hold a charge it must be replaced with a new battery. You can purchase a new battery at your location lawn mower dealership, hardware store or automotive store. Bring your old battery with you. Most places will charge you a core fee unless you provide them with your old battery.

Loose or Wires and Connections in Your Cub Cadet

Wires and connections can become loose with the constant vibration of your Cub Cadet. Make sure they are secure. While checking the connections and verifying the continuity is good, make sure the terminals are free of corrosion.
The outdoor elements can cause moisture around the connections causing corrosions. Try to remove this corrosion using a wire brush and a baking sold solution (2 cups water to 3 heaping tablespoons of baking soda). Replace the terminals if the corrosion is too severe.

Bad Fuse on Your Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

A fuse is installed to protect your Cub Cadet's electrical system. Check your mower to make sure you don't have a blown fuse. If you're unsure if the fuse is blown, you can check it by placing a multimeter probe on each prong of the fuse to measure resistance.
A resistance reading near 0 means your fuse is good. An infinity resistance reading indicates a bad fuse.
Replace a blown fuse with a fuse with the same amperage of the fuse you are replacing. If you continue to blow fuses, you should bring your Cub Cadet to your lawn mower dealership or lawn mower repair shop to troubleshoot the root cause.

Bad Ignition Switch on Your Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

The ignition key switch can be the culprit if you insert the key and turn it to find nothing happens. Your Cub Cadet will fail to turn over and start.
Check the switch using a multimeter to check continuity to determine if the ignition switch is the problem. To do this, look for the prongs mark B for Battery and S for Starter Solenoid.
Insert the key and turn it to the start position. With the multimeter set to measure resistance, touch one probe to the B prong and the other probe to the S prong.
A good ignition key switch will measure resistance near 0 ohms. A bad ignition key switch will measure infinite resistance and will need to be replaced.

Bad Safety Switch on Your Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

Your Cub Cadet has an operator presence control system installed to keep you safe. A safety switch can be defective and cause your Cub Cadet to fail to turn over.
Test your switch using a multimeter. You can also temporarily bypass the safety switch to identify a bad switch, but only do this for troubleshooting purposes.
Never operate a mower without the safety switch. Never run a mower when a safety switch is bypassed. A safety switch can save you from serious injury and you never know when you're going to need it.

Bad Starter Solenoid in Your Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

A starter solenoid is an electromagnetic switch that, when engaged, initiates the starter motor to turn over your Cub Cadet's engine.
The starter solenoid can go bad when the spring becomes weak or the copper plate begins to corrode. A weak starter, bad battery or bad ground can also cause the solenoid to fail.
Before you test your starter solenoid, you must have a fully charged battery. Continue testing the solenoid by using the steps to diagnose a bad starter solenoid in "How to Tell Your Lawn Mower Solenoid is Bad".

Bad Starter Motor on Your Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

Once you have ruled out the battery, cables, wiring, ground and starter solenoid as being the reason for your Cub Cadet won't turn over, it's time to look at the starter. The starter can be removed and tested.
I recommend having your local repair shop that specializes in starter and alternator repairs test your starter and rebuild it if possible before just throwing a pricey new starter at your Cub Cadet mower.
Still Having Problems with Your Cub Cadet Mower? If the above list did not resolve your problems, I put together a guide of common mower problems and solutions. You will find links to more in depth articles for each of these common issues. You can find the article at "Common Cub Cadet Lawn Mower Problems".

If none of this helps you out i dont know what you are going to do.

Sounds like you are starved for fuel. Look for a pinched off fuel line or a plugged up fuel filter. That would be my first place to start. Possibly even a bad petcock on the tank.

Have the electrical system checked . Battery ,charging system etc..... Do you have a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter ? Check out youtube videos on testing battery an charging system.

Check to see if the pump is a vacuum pump.. if it is, it will only work if the engine is running...

Only one side of engine runs? Could be a head gasket problem on the right. It is a mechanical issue, not an electronic or electrical possibility as in newer cars. Do a compression test of the engine to see if the right side has compression failure from a bad head gasket.
A 1974 model would be a 12 volt system, not 6 volts. The last 6 volt systems were in the 1950's. If your coil is 12 volt and the left side runs and fires good, there is nothing wrong electrically. Check for spark on the right side, it should have spark on all cylinders if good spark on the left side. If no spark on the right side,. maybe a problem with the rotor or the distributor cap.

Sounds like your still running power thru the original regulator also. Disconnect the original system completely so that your running power directly from alternator's inboard regulator and to the battery. Nowhere else.

Bad starter, starter solenoid clicks, but the starter does not turn, check the charge of the .... If it still will not start, it means something else is (mechanical or electrical) wrong too.

The Battery CCA Rating is to turn over the starter

CCA--Cold Cranking Amps
That is at zero degrees
Total cranking amps is at 32 degrees

The car runs off the alternator
It puts out over 14 volts

The 12 volt battery is 6 cells @1.2 v each = 13.2 v

You need 12.6 volts to test a car or you charge it first

You need over 13 volts to charge a battery,thus the alternator

The only other job the battery has is a stabilizer in the electrical
circuit

So you need to have the charging system diagnosed as the
various light you have on should be off when engine first starts

You have this posted inthe wrong product category. Please re-post. thanks