100 amp service. 2 breakers connected together 50 amp each. power was shut off. Had to shut off main before ir was turned back on. when power was restored, breaker would not stay on unless it was done real easy. Seems like only 1 of the 2 is working. in box now only every other one (breaker) seems to work. Even if you take all the breakers off of the buss bar, the main seems like only 1 side is keeping it on.

ts a fuser error and it has to be reset in service mode
To get into service mode.....
Press *
Then 2 & 8 together
Then *
then choose COPIER
then choose FUNCTION
then choose CLEAR
then choose ERROR
then press OK
turn power off and on

if the problem comes back there is a problem with the fuser but in my experiance resetting has worked 99% of the time

Some of these numbers don't make sense?
I have Never heard of 440v and 220v in a residential application, they are two different systems, 480 volt is typically 3 phase power, and 240v is typically single phase, more in likely you have a 200- 400 amp main service, and a 100- 200 amp secondary service for the welder, that can't be 110 @ 200 amps?
I would need more info, and pictures of actual nameplates of the equipment,
and then I could advise a safe NEC electrical code answer...

Am I to assume your dryer is electrical? If so, I'll guarentee it will draw MORE than 14 Amps if heating. Sorry, can't analyze your problem from here.

You need three #8 wires for AE125. Two #8 wires for AE115.

1) Copy following link for wiring information:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

2) The AE125 has 3 elements, and requires 3 wires.Each wire is sized #8 copper, and is connected to 40 amp breaker, up to 100 feet. Over 100 feet, use 50 amp breaker and #6 wire. Oversizing breaker and wire is smarted and more efficient than undersizing.

3) Often a separate subpanel is installed to provide 3 extra spaces.

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Main-subpanel-Tankless-600.jpg


4) Makes sure main breaker panel can accept additional 120 amps of draw without overampping panel ... and starving other appliances of full power.... that will damage appliances, overheat motors, and damage main panel and overheat main breaker. You want to oversize, not undersize electric service when installing tankless electric, which is why I do not recommend tankless electric installation, including issues of costing more to operate, and expensive repairs, and general money risk-nuisance of owning tankless vrs tank-type heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#stress


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Look at rating plate on side of unit for Volts, Amps, Watts.
Volts x amps = watts.
If unit is 240Volts, then you need double-pole 240Volt breaker
If unit is 8500 watts at max power, then 8500 watts divided by 240Volts = 35 amps.

What size breaker for 35 amps?
When electricians figure load rating for breakers, they use the 80% rule.
40 amp breaker x 80% = 32 amp safe maximum load for 40 amp breaker. Use 8 gauge wire with 40 amp breaker.
50 amp breaker x 80% = 40 amp safe maximum for 50 amp breaker. I use 6 gauge wire with 50 amp breaker.
60 amp breaker x 80% = 48 amp safe maximum for 60 amp breaker. Again, use 6 gauge wire with 60 amp breaker.

How to connect wires to unit.
First of all, all outdoor HVAC units require power cut off located next to unit.
This lets the mechanic, or service tech turn power off to work on unit, even if the mechanic does not have access to main breaker box.

Next, open unit to see where wires connect.
If unit has wires, then connect both hot wires from 240 breaker to the wires inside unit. Connect bare ground wire to green ground screw.
If unit has terminals. The terminals will be labeled L1 L2. Connect each hot wire from 240Volt breaker to either one of the screw terminals. Then bare ground goes to green ground screw.

Copy following links for basic illustrations connecting wires to terminals, and to breakers, and selecting wire size.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Rich, This may sound obvious, but either the main breaker is acting normally because the load is near 100 amps, or it's defective. If it seems that the loading conditions have not changed from prior years, then you have probably been close to the 100 amp level before and a small amount of corrosion has occurred over time (accelerated by the heavy loading). The cleanliness and tightness of connections is critical to carrying loads at rated capacity. If you are close to the rated load, then replacing the main will buy you some time (but probably not as much as the original because the bus bar connection to the main is probably slightly corroded too) but it won't solve the problem - you will need to upgrade to a higher amp service. On the other hand, if you can calculate or measure the total load and you aren't near 100 Amps, then you just need to replace the main. One other thought. If you have a significant part of the load that is not 220V, then it you might have a higher load on one phase than the other, and could possibly be remedied by switching phases on some of the branch circuits. You only have to exceed 50 amps on one phase to trip a 100 amp main. Good luck, Al K

The breaker that feeds the panel and the wire are what determines the rating. The panel has to be at least as high as the breaker. It can be more, and no problem.The problem I see is that the wiring is undersized for the 60 amp breaker. You should have #6 wires or change the breaker to a 50 amp. If that is not enough for your load, you must change the wiring. It also depends on the type of wire. THHN will have the largest amperage, but if it is TW, it will be lower. Rule of thumb would be #10-30 amp, #8-40-50 amp, #6-50-60 amp, #4-70-90 amp and #2-95-135 amp. There are other factors, such as derating etc. but if you wanted to increase to 100 amp, I would run #2 thhn. Hope this helps.

Don't mess with main breaker if you're not qualified.
Wires on main breaker are Hot even when main is turned off.
The only way to turn off main is to pull meter.

1) There are 2 Hot wires that connect to main breaker.
Each wire is 120Volts, and each 120V line is 'out of phase' with the other.
Two out of phase 120V lines create 240Volt circuit when they are wired together.
Read more on links below.


2) It sounds like your main breaker needs to be replaced, unless total of all circuits exceeds 160 amp. Turn off small circuit breakers and try main breaker again. If main resets, then turn small circuits back on one by one. Your main may still be bad.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-main-circuit-breaker.html

3) Here are more links that explain electric wiring.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on breaker or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Sounds like you have a bad capacitor for your squirrel cage fan , now as for the a/c unit sounds like you have a direct short in compressor to ground or leg to leg , check all wiring to make sure that it is not grounding out or melted together.