How am I going to connect it to my car,Im wondering why it doesnt have a remote terminal like what the other capacitor brand had.

Set-up (Programming) procedure is too much to type in here, and is not practical and it will differ brand-to-brand remote controls. If you wish to get more; check the sites linked here. It has set-up code list & set-up procedure to many popular brand remote controls. One among it has general set-up codes to check with TVs and other devices are given, in the order of the 'device's brand name list' in alphabetical order. Pull up older posts. Search the sites by type in the brand name to your device in its search box at the top right part of the display window. It will help you to find the relative post easily.
http://remotesearch.blogspot.com/
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
http://electrohelponline.blogspot.com/

The capacitor has two terminals. One is + and one is - . Your Amplifier has three terminals on the power connector. One is connected by a Black wire connected to the body or - of the battery, the second is a Blue wire connected to the remote wire of the Head unit ( for remote ON/OFF of the Power Amp ). The third is the Red wire connected to the + terminal of battery through a big Fuse .
Connect the Capacitor + to the terminal with the Red wire and Connect the Capacitor - to the terminal with the Black wire. Make sure you use heavy cables to do the connection and try to keep the length of the interconnecting cables as short as possible ( to minimize losses ). In other words try to connect the Capacitor as close as possible to the Power Amplifier for maximum efficiency.

Reverse the capacitor to the winding andthe fan will reverse.That is the capacitor which is now connected to the terminal of the coil should be connected to the other side of the coil.

Sorry it took a while to get back to you; I had to leave for work. Sounds like you have a capacitor with 3 connections on it. Common, Herm, and Fan. It should be connected as follows. One line from the contactor should connect to the common terminal on the capacitor. From the fan, the brown or start wire should go to the fan terminal and the orange or start wire should go the common terminal on the capacitor. The black or common wire should go to the other leg of the contactor(not the one connected to the capacitor.) For the compressor, the purple or start wire should go to the Herm terminal and the red or run wire should go to common on the capacitor. The black or common wire should go to the same side of the contactor as the black wire from the fan. Let me know if this is too confusing.

Its quite simple. Just go to any hardware, or electronics store and purchase a small toggle on off switch. Find the rem wire where it runs from the back of the headunit to the amp, and wherever its easy to reach simply cut the wire, Strip the two ends of the wire and mark the piece still connected to the head unit +, and the one connected to your kenwood amp -. Next Find a suitable place to mount your switch, (probably somewhere close to the drivers seat). Mount the switch, but make sure you can reach the terminals on the switch. Then Splice a wire from the + end of the cut remote wire, to the + end of your switch and connect it.(if the switch's terminals aren't marked +, and - just pick one and call it +, and the other -, it doesn't matter) Next run a wire from the - end of the cut remote and connect it to the - switch terminal. Then you're done... Just remember for your amp to be on both your headunit and switch have to be on. Also while your wiring disconnect the - terminal of your car battery to avoid shorting anything. Also discharge your capacitor if you have one. Enjoy you system!

hmm.. thats a nice radio, not too shaby heheh...

Well your car radio should have a Blue wire with a white stripe for the remote, in case you are interested in the user manual (wich im guessing you dont have)

Go to:
http://www.nodevice.com/user_manual/pioneer/car_audio/deh-p5500mp.html

it has a diagram of the harness and it shows a blue/white remote wire, so im guessing that you bought it used and probably got a different harness with your car radio... but then again thats too weird

you could do a check to see if thats really the problem... just feed 12V From the power terminal of your amp to the remote terminal, that should turn your amp on and you should be able to listen to your car radio's output (id suggest not setting the volume all the way up when doing this XD)

Hope it helps

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Do this for the sub amp...

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

If you're installing this in a vehicle with a 12 volt charging system (most automobiles are 12v), I think the batteries may be dead in your multimeter. You shouldn't read anything over ~15v.

When you measure this again, place the black lead on the ground terminal of the amp.

The only effective way to troubleshoot this is with a digital multimeter. Test for voltage on the power terminal and the remote terminal (using the ground terminal for your black probe). If you have voltage on both terminals, check the amp's built-in fuses; if they're good, then you must have a defective amp. If you have voltage on the remote terminal, but none on the power terminal, check your fuse and fuse holder at the front. It's not unusual to have a blown or defective fuse that looks okay.