SOURCE: Electrolux Icon Mystery issue
Check to be sure your racks are all slid in to the back. Are you getting a error code?
SOURCE: Whirlpool Double Oven RBD305PDB7 - Upper Oven Won't Heat
I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.
SOURCE: Heating element on upper oven of a wall Thermador Oven
The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.
SOURCE: Oven won't heat.
Thanks for the tip. Had the same problem, everything seemed to work except for the heating elements. Removed the vent cover inside the door just below the control panel. Found the reset button and also found one of the large black power wiires had come loose from its connector. Turned off the power at the breaker box, checked for voltage with a meter and re-attached wire connector with insulated pliers. Oven works now. Lets call this failure "poor workmanship at Dacor".
SOURCE: whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
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