Compressor turns on takes 30 mins to cool on -18 setting, Then freezer drops from -18 to minus 27 then 6 mins to warm up to -18 this repeats continuesly using alot of power Problem is. Temp is unstable

I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example.

The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine.
Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan.

A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things.

I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.

You say the defrost heater is working, but does it switch off at the end of the defrost cycle?

A refrigerator is a closed box and the only water vapour to condense and freeze to produce ice should be from the food and the opening of the door. Remember the days before auto defrost when a fridge in good order needed defrosting only a couple or three of times each year? That is a normal ice build up.
A freezer needed less deicing than that.

Excessive ice signals the possibility of an insulation failure (search for cold areas on the outer casing) a bad door seal, an auto defrost malfunction or possibly a general decline in the efficiency of the cooling system due to a worn compressor or lack of refrigerant - an ice build up in the freezer only means the temperature is below freezing, you didn't mention what the freezer temperature actually is but I wager it is far above the minus 18 - 27 degrees C of an efficient freezer.

One method of judging the efficiency of a refrigeration system - the purpose of which is to move heat from the inside of the cabinet to the outside where it is dispersed by the condenser which will naturally become quite warm. If the condenser isn't as warm or even almost hot as usual while the compressor is running then it isn't efficiently moving heat from inside the cabinet.

Generally a lack of efficiency tends towards longer than usual compressor cycling and even constant running.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ
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Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

Dear Mahesh

In Cool Mode

Temp Diff - + - 1 deg C in Room Temp & Set Temp

This is auto cut

In Dry Mode

Comp Runs for 10 mins then get off for 5 mins then again get on for 10 mins this cycle continuues.

The compressor is the part which cools the refrigerator.---------- First i will explain the working procedure of your sanyo refrigerator.---------- In the refrigerator, there is a part called compressor, the compressor is the part which cools the freezer section, When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge section gets cold.--------- So the freezer section cooling/ freezing is must.If freezer is not getting properly cooled or not getting cooled, then fridge section will show the low or no cooling problem.--------------
In your refrigerator, its quite possible that compressor is got weak, nor complete faulty but little bit weak.So when you open and close the fridge or freezer door , the compressor is not that strong to maintain the required temperature.So its working hard to cool inside temperature, but its not doing it quickly as it should.---------.---------- In the compressor there is a refrigerant called FREON.With the help of this Freon the compressor cools the freezer section.Freon is a gaseous type cooling agent.The compressor will stop cooling when coolant gets leaked from its chamber.--------- Again recharging the Freon is possible, but the cost for that recharging is approx the cost of new compressor.So its always advisable to get compressor replaced.Because new compressor has warranty for few years.------------------ You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- ----------------
There is manual reset procedure, sometimes the ice gets frosted all over and blocks the ventilation's for cool air to pass from one section to another, and this also causes problem.So directly going for compressor inspection, before that you can try manual reset procedure and see if that helps.---------

The manual reset procedure is as follows : ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take approx 4 to 6 hours for your refrigerator to regain its regular cooling/ freezing .So after 4 to 6 hours check , Is the refrigerator cooling properly or is it taking time or temp is dropping once you open close door. If this problems are not noticed, then reset procedure has helped.------- But if same problem is noticed after reset procedure is followed, then you can get the compressor checked. -------- This should help. Thanks.Helpmech.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

That is usually caused by the evaporator fan not running. It's located under the fridge accessed from the back behind the cardboard cover. The fan should run when the compressor runs.

It is in a defrost cycle if you wait for around 30 min.
it should come back on

1.If this is only a fridge the one knob will be for the min and the other for the max.
max. : As soon as you switch the fridge on it will cool down the fridge to max cool down temp. example -2deg.
min. : As soon as the fridge reaches the max cool down temp and it had switch the compressor off, the fridge will start to warm up slowly, by the time it reaches the min allowed warming up temp, it will switch the compressor back on and do the cycle all over again.
2. If it is a fridge/freezer setup, the one knob will be for the fidge and the other for the freezer. If the temp in the freezer is fine a fan is activated and blows all the cool air to the fridge and controls the temp. by activating the fan.

check damper control