Intex Automatic Salt Water System for  Above Ground Saltwater Pool Logo
Posted on Jul 13, 2011
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Hello I have a 15x48 intex above ground Easy Set pool and saltwater system. All was working well for about a week and a half. I couldn't get my ph and TA levels right so I brought a sample to my local pool store. They gave me soda ash and alkalility up to add. Prior to adding these all other levels were good (including free chlorine). Since adding these chemicals i can no longer get a chlorine reading. I checked the electrolytic cell and it wad dirty so I soaked in in vinegar over night. This am half of the cell looks clean the other half still has discolored spots on it. Is there anything else I can do? Will it work again now? Do I need to buy a new one? Please help my kids are driving me crazy b/c they want to swim!!!!!

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  • Expert 119 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 15, 2011
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I've been running mine for 2 years without checking anything other than the free chlorine level and it's always crystal clear without adding NO CHEMICALS. Make sure you have the correct salt level and start the unit. Take a water sample at the discharge after the chlorinating light comes on and check to see if it measures chlorine. Should be slightly yellow color. If so, your unit is producing free chlorine.

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Hello I have a 15x48 intex above ground Easy Set pool and saltwater system. All was working well for about a week and a half. I couldn't get my ph and TA levels right so I brought a sample to my local...

As a alternative to the cell, you could add chlorine, temporarily ... so the kids could swim right away.

If the manufacturer recommends vinegar, that is what you should use. Some people say muratic acid is effective in cleaning the device. Try cleaning another night.

Evidently, your water was on the acid side ... evidenced by the report from your pool professional.

In establishing good water balance, first it is important to remove all metals ... Second, get alkalinity set (anywhere between 80 and 120 with 100 being the goal). Next, pH should be set. 7.2 to 7.8 is a pretty wide range. 7.4 is the goal. Chlorine should now be introduced and 4 ppm is a good number but you can go higher, Some US States allow as high as 10 in commercial spa and hot tub situations. In your case, the chlorine you are making (or not making in the present situation) is not protected by Cyanuric Acid (sun screen for chlorine). Also called Stabilizer, any number between 50 and 100 is ok. 80 is the goal. With no Cyanuric Acid "protection", your chlorine will be gobbled up almost as quickly as you make it. Note, grandular type chlorine normally comes with Cyanuric Acid as an ingredient. Numbers above 100 should be avoided. Since the acid is persistent, the only way to get the excess out of the pool is to remove some water, which will also remove calcium and salt. Just be aware ...

Do you know what the salt rquirement is? The content of your pool? One particular manufacturer I am famliar with wants 2800 to 3400 PPM with 3200 being the goal. At that level, this particular manufacturers (not yours) device operates most effectively. I say this to stress you should be aware of the Intex standard and where your salt level is. You can measure this with a special kit from Taylor or you may have your pool professional check it for you.

Enjoy your pool - I hope this information is helpful. Thank you for your question @ FixYa.com
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unfortunately every thing you mentioned is not reaaly important.
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http://www.intexcorp.com.hk/proifv/proifv_dl_client.jsp?lst_docsea=2009&source=intexstore&gid=2&lid=8738
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