Not cold and when you open door you cant here blower working. the freezer is cold

The freezer is actually where the cold originates and is passed through into the refridgerated area.
Open the fridge doors and check that the air passage is not blocked by something stored against it. It's probably on the top shelf and looks like a louvre vent. There may be another down by the crisper drawer

Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. Then make sure all the vents are clear and not being blocked by food cartons. One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem
If you find this helpful, a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated for the free advice

if you were to reach your hand towards the rear inside the fridge area can you feel cold air blowing into the refrigerator side if not this could either be due to the fan inside the freezer area not working or there is a small door that is controled by a thermostat inside the ceiling of your refrigerator this thermostat when it reaches a tempreture that is to warm it opens a small door in the rear that connects to the freezer allowing cold air to come into the refrigerator side when the refrigerator becomes cold enough the thermostat then shuts the door. You could also have a defrost issue inside the freezer area in which u would need to remove the rear panel in the rear of the freezer in order to assure you did not have this issue. If you remove the rear panel and you see any ice build up on the evaporator coil (note this is also where the fan that blows the cold air into your refrigerator is located)you would have a defrost issue. If you remove that rear panel and find any ice build up message me back and il instruct how to fix but first check to assure you have air blowing into the refrigerator side. If you dont then you have to diagnose which is causing the issue either the fan which you could hear if you listened inside of the freezer area or the door itself is not opening due to a malfunction with the thermostat if you have any further questions message me back and please also remember when our chat has fully conlcuded to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations Thanks
Rick

Your Ice maker may be the cause. if it is not holding water the water may be landing on the bottom and freezing, causing the ice build up and obstructing the air transfer from the freezer to the refrigerator. You can remove or replace your Ice maker. Then you will have to defrost your freezer to get everything back to normal.

open your freezer and see if it's blowing cold air,or if it's just cold,if it's not blowing cold air it's probably the fan, u will find this right behind the vents in the freezer,remove vent in freezer there should be a fan if not running replace this should resolve your problem

Hi Dave and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,

Take a look in the back of the freezer compartment. Look for any signs of icing on the back access cover. Usually but not always the evaporator coils freeze up because the unit is not automatically defrosting properly or there is a problem with the evaporator fan not running fast enough / at all. Press gently with your hand of the back cover of the freezer compartment and feel for ice. Also check the front of the chassis for signs of being HOT. It is ok to be warm not hot.
Also check to see that the light goes on and off as you actuate the light switch plunger. Some units have the door switch in the top of the door hinge but most have the switch in the door fold area of the chassis some where.

If you find that the evaporator coils have iced up:

• Perform a manual defrost of the unit but first unplugging it
• Remove the freezer contents
• Direct an external fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hrs. (makes a water mess)
• After 2 hrs clean up the water mess and return the unit to normal service.
• Watch after 3 days if the fresh food compartment once again starts warming up. If it does you have and automatic defrosting problem.

No ice noted:

• Possible temp control problem (Thermostat / cold control or thermistor)
• Possible Air Damper problem. There are 2 kinds of air dampers. One is electrically controlled and the other is nothing but a mechanical baffle that is positioned partially open. If you have the electrical type the air damper motor may have failed or the movable baffle is stuck.

Front of chassis is almost HOT to the touch vs warm:

• Open the back of the unit by removing the black fiberboard cover and inspect for lint and that the condenser fan is running anytime the compressor is running.

Light always on:

• Door switch failure. Some door switches also control the evaporator fan along with water in door and ice in door functions. The water and ice in door should NOT work with the door open.

The above is pretty much an in home repair techicians check list for the symptom you describe.
If you discover that you have an automatic defrosting problem I will need you MAKE & MODEL number via your next response here so I can tell you what you can do to troubleshoot. (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Your water line could be frozen in the door. You can disconnect the line under the unit before it goes into the door at the bottom hinge. Push the dispenser button and see if it comes out there. If it does leave the door open till it thaws. Covering the opening with a blanket will prevent the loss of cold in the freezer. Or use a hairdryer on the inside of the door below the dispenser.

There are a few reasons why this is happening. One and usually the most common is the the heater for the coils in the freezer is not working.These heaters are controled by a timer that lets it run for a while and then shut off, this keeps the coils from freezing up and collecting moisture. 9 out of 10 times it is the timer mechanism that goes bad and it is a reletivly cheap and easy repair. Also make sure the gasket on the freezer is in good shape and not allowing outside moisture in where it can condense and freeze along the wall of your freezer, keeping the door open too long will also create this effect, but if the heater is working correctly it usually will take care of itself. You may also want to make sure there is good air flow from the unit itself and blowing good cold air around in the freezer.

Please reply with a model #, make, and what exactly is the problem?? the fridge part is warm?
do you hear the compressor running?
is the freezer the correct temp?

Thanks!!