Whirlpool LHW0050PQ4 Solenoid Failure? Problem started yesterday after 4 years of dependable usage. After a load was completed and the "Done" light on, I opened the (unlocked) door and released 1/2 tub of water onto the floor. I slammed the door shut with a good amount of water still inside. Ran the spin/drain cycle and observed. All appeared normal and the tub appeared to drain completely. At the end of the cycle, the "Done" light appeared. I could not detect a water level line. After waiting a few minutes, I opened the door , the light changed to "Spin" and again I released a tub of water, although this time I was prepared with a bucket. My husband checked the hot and cold water feeds and found the cutoff valves were leaking. He replaced the washers and those are now fine. We live in a small beach community that a major water main break over the winter, which released a lot of stand into the main. We had flushed all the lines except the washer feeds because I didn't occur to us to do this. Some questions: 1. We're assuming the tub keeps refilling because the solenoids failed and need to be replaced. Is this correct? What does a replacement solenoid cost? 2. Would sand in the water feed lines cause the solenoids to fail? If so, how can we prevent this from happening again, considering that this is an ongoing problem in our community? There are plastic filters on the feed connections to the washer but we can't see a way to remove them to clean them out. Too, the filter holes look big enough to let sand through. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

SOURCE: ge washer

Dear friend,
ngfam at you service!

You can not fix this problem your self!!!

This sounds like it will only fixed by service then you will be happy again!!

Yes sounds like you need service!
Call A&E Factory Service /They service nation wide
And are available 24/7 for making appointments!

If the appliance is 10 years old or more,it may make sense not to invest any money to fix it!

Happy to assist you,
PS. PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF!

SOURCE: Whirlpool Cabrio Washer- When draining, water leaks out of hole

probably rubber hose from tub to pump broke, access from back or bottom, (cabrios are open bottom) pump in rear. there is a recent bulletin about tub ring not channeling water from dispenser completely into tub

SOURCE: WATER NOT DRAINING COMPLETELY. AWOKE ONE MORNING

This problem is commonly caused by a bad water inlet valve or pressure switch. To determine which one may be causing the problem, leave the water turned on and unplug the washer. If the problem reoccurs, you have an inlet valve problem. If the problem stops, you may have a defective pressure switch.

Replacing the inlet valve (if required) is simple. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug washer.

2. Turn off water supply and remove hoses from the back of the washer.

3. Remove the top panel of the washer by locating the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.

4. The water inlet valve is located in the left rear of the washer (as viewed from the front). Remove the dispenser hoses and mounting screw(s) and the valve comes out of the washer.

5. Install new valve and reassemble following these steps in reverse order.

If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement valve is 8181694. It can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best prices.

If the pressure switch is defective, the same disassembly instructions apply. The pressure switch is located on the right rear of the washer (as viewed from the front). It is round in shape with an electrical connection and a small air hose attached. The part number is 8181695. Replacement should be fairly simple. Disconnect the electrical connection, the air hose and mounting screws (if any). Some of the switches simply clip on to the side panel.

If you have any questions about these repairs, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Gerry Harvey

• 1482 Answers
• Posted on Apr 09, 2010

SOURCE: Standing water in the washer hours after wash cycle completes

YES..I think drain hose @ sink too low Waste water from sink entering machine...Raise pipe....tie up ....

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet F06 Code- Intermittent Failure

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.


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