Every other breaker in my board isnt working whilev doing some minor wiring on a lightb switch two wires accidently touched blowing a 15 amp breaker now every other breaker dont work i had to move a couple into empty slots to get power back to importing areas the 2 wires coming into the murray 200 amp breaker one is powered the other isnt

Hi Steven
Do the simple stuff first. Check the obvious points at which the circuit may get shorted. Light Bulbs and sockets. Wires in the boot or rear lamp area. Down the steering column. Follow harness to front then rear. Age of vehicle and how it's used may provide clues. Trailer Connector Wires & Connections to harness.
(Where could they Link Together)
If that fails
You need to isolate each circuit that is blowing a fuse and trace the fault to a location. Probably when you find the fault (ground short or wires shorted together) it will become obvious that the two separate circuits are linked.
So... start with the right turn signal

Finding Shorts It's a pain.... but.... here's the process!
Remove the Fuses that keep blowing.
Make up a long lead from the battery positive terminal.
Say 4 meters.
Add a cheap 5A or 10A circuit breaker in the lead wire.
Make a probe tip on the end of wire. (needle, pin. nail)
This saves you going through many fuses.
The circuit breaker simply resets when it cools.
The best way to locate the short is to Note the wire colour code (or use iPhone to take photo).
Supply power via the made up jumper & circuit breaker to the suspect circuit wire to prove that it blows the circuit breaker.
Then.... split the circuit in two...
Half way down the vehicle (say front door step) Lift the plastic trim off and find those colour coded wires.
Prove these are the wires by pushing sharp probe through the insulation. Circuit breaker blows....
Cut the wires. Try Rear wires vs Front wires and Determine if the short is in the Front section or the Rear section.
Then use the same process over again on the section which is faulty (shorting) Divide in two. until you narrow the short location down.
Keep in mind that the short could suddenly disapear if you get close & simply move the section with the bare (shorted) wire which touches the chassis or another wire.
Slip some heat shrink tubing over these cut wires and resolder them later. This is better than crimp terminals which may cause problems later.
Good Luck

AutoReset Circuit Breaker 12v 20A

Power Probe PP3LS01 Power Probe III Circuit Tester Kit with Lead Set Red...

There are cheaper versions


Power Probe PP3LS01 Power Probe III Circuit Tester Kit with Lead Set Red...

All circuits ultimatey are completed to earth (negative) so this can sometimes trick you. Try to isolate portions of the circuit that you are testing and then use your meter to check for continuity to ground. A tripped circuit breaker usually indicates a dead short. Look for bare wire making unwanted contact. More info about what you are working on would help

the wiring is likely being pinched somewhere and bare wire is touching the frame and grounding out. was it in an accident recently? this can be common after even minor accidents.

In general house hold circuit breaker of the house is 15 Amps or 20 Amps.

Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.

The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.

To isolate your problem:

1. Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .

2. If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:

2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances

2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)

2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)

Following wiring diagram is for general purpose household 120V-240Volt service.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-10-1000.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

Why are you asking that question without saying what you are wiring? 120Volt, 277V, 480V etc?
What does rating plate say on device you are connected to 14-3 wire?
And what amp/volt/watt rating are you connecting to 14 gauge wire?
No electrician would omit that information.
14-3 wire is usually only for 3-way switches and other light duty applications.
Must be connected to 15 amp breaker and no larger.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Really need more info but if it blows fuses you have a hot wire touching metal somewhere......
or something plugged in where it shouldnt be.....Or wrong size fuse..You have a brake light switch attached to the brake pedal which is common to fail.....also brake light bulbs and fuse ...check where bulbs are installed at recepticles....check for naked wires touching metal.....also use a good rated fuse...
should be a 15 some are 10 some 20...i would try a 15 if you dont know..................Sometimes your foot can accidently kick wires loose under dash at brake light switch........some cars also have
a cruise control switch above brake light switch.....DONT confuse one with other....NEED MORE INFO ABOUT VEHICLE TYPE TO GIVE CORRECT ANSWER................METALPOET

Is your unloader dumping properly? This is the device that allows the head pressure to bleed off after stopping to make the restart easier. Is this device rated at 15 amps or 20? Have you tried a 20 amp circuit?

Do not - repeat - Do not change the breakers to oversome this difficulty. The breakers are in place to protect the wire in your home. Normally, a 15 amp circuit will have #14 wire. #14 wire cannot (and will not, for very long), carry 20 amps without melting or burning. 20 amp breaker protects #12 wire; 30 amps protects #10 wire.

If you continue to have this problem, you may want to have your compressor looked at by a professional electrician.

thank you for your interest in FixYa.com

Please vote

thanks

Is there anything else running while you are cutting? If not is the breaker 15 amp or 20 amp. If its 15 amp, I would change it to a 20 amp breaker. Make sure the wires are thick enough to handle the extra load. If this isn't the problem check the cord from the saw to the outlet.

Good luck!!

So one leg of your 220 was hot to the touch. If this wire is coming from your meter and going into the top of the main breaker. Be careful, it is hot and there is nothing you can do to kill the power from it. I would suggest getting a qualified electrician with the proper tools to see if the lug is loose on the breaker. If the wire is not tight in the lug that will produce heat.

Did your radio only work with the tail lights on when the lights did work? There is definarely a short. If you can, get an automatic circuit breaker that fits in olace of the fuse. This is a trick I used when detecting shorts. The breaker will reset every few seconds and you won't have to keep replacing fuses The lights will go on and off as the breaker trips and resets and will stop cycling when you find the problem. This way gives you time to wiggle and wait wiring and connections and even disconnect things to narrow it down.--- Good luck........ Stay focused on any new wiring in the lighting circuit including the bulbs. Anything the switch controls including the switch. The auto breaker is available at parts stores and if you can't get one from a car parts store, Truck dealers do carry them. Get one that is lower than the one it csalls for. Ie; It normally calls for a 15 amp, get a10 amp. It will cycle faster. Do not bypass the fuse for there is a risk of fire. The breaker makes it a one man job . This trick has saved me a ton of diagnostic time.