The tv has shut off, led light is also off. have tried unplugging and leaving unplugged for 24 hours, and trying to power up again. there is no light visible, and there is no response when using any functions on the tv, or the remote control. is this a power source problem, or fuse? is it something i can fix? i do not have an extended warranty and purchased the unit just over a year ago.

There are at least two power supplies in every modern set and a possible third in many. One is on all the time, using a small amount of power so the set can respond to your remote control and this one rarely fails. In most sets, it also supplies enough power to use the LED power indicator to blink an error message in a coded sequence. The main power supply is the most common failure but normally the 'always on' supply still works to give a blinking indication that some failure has occurred.
It's very uncommon to have all supplies fail so this is kind of an indication that a line fuse has failed which would disable all and any supplies.
Before digging into the set, if you don't own a multimeter to check the AC outlet, I would take another appliance of some kind and make sure that it gets power from the receptacle you use for the TV. That outlet may be on a line protected with a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) that has tripped due to some short-term fault. Also check the circuit breaker for that circuit to see if it has an integrated GFI which has become quite common.
Once you are certain that AC is present at that outlet, remove the back cover of the set and follow the AC line inside to find the first circuit board it goes to. It isn't real common anymore that fuses are in a holder that makes replacement easy so it may be the type soldered to a board with other components.
Unless it is an indicating type of fuse, it may be tough to identify it but the first fuse will normally have a designation printed near it such as 'F1.' If soldered, you would need a soldering iron to replace it and I wouldn't do this before checking the fuse with a multimeter on the lowest Ohms range, typically 200 Ohms full scale. On-board fuses can be in a small cylindrical case oriented vertically with two pins near each other, tubular case mounted parallel to the board with leads on opposite ends and will look a lot like resistors except won't have colored rings on them.
You can buy such a (digital) meter for under $20 (don't spend more) and even much less on line. They will have multiple AC, DC, DC current and Ohms ranges minimum, and some meters will have an additional function for continuity and a separate jack for measuring up to 10 Amperes. They can be bought at Radio Shack, auto parts stores and on line.