I have four lines coming out of the wall. 2 white and 2 black and ground. I connect. One line(black and white) is for the under cabinet light. Tthe other are house lines. When I connect the white and black house wires to the designated white and hot(Black) bottom socket the switch does not have power. What I am doing wrong?

Four Black wires twisted together are "Hot".
Three of the white wires along with a white wire from the fixture which is connected to the silver screw, are your "Neutral" of the Circuit.
The fourth white coming in from the four lines is connected to the brass screw of the fixture... this is Coming from the "Wall Switch". this I believe is "Hot" from the switch.
Put your Fixtures Black wire on this white wire... the fixtures white wire goes to the other white wires...

ground circuit fault interuptors must be wired to four wires
see: http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/gfci-outlet-switch-wiring.html

Add another line to 120V switch.
To begin, inside your switch box, there must be at least two cables.
Each cable has a black-wire and white-wire and bare ground wire.

If your box has only one cable, then you cannot use that for your junction.

OK, your box has 2 cables.
One cable comes from circuit breaker box. These are called Line wires. There is a Black Hot and White Neutral.
The other cable goes to light. These are called Load wires.

You are going to add a new cable with a black-wire and white-wire

In back of box, the white wires are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These white wires are called Neutrals.
Add your new white wire to these other white wires.

The switch has 2 black wires. One black wire is the Hot line wire.
Add your new black wire to the switch screw that has the Hot.
Of course the switch has 2 black wires, so how do you know which is the Hot.
Turn light switch off, turn power ON, and test each black wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on the Hot.

Review:
New white wire connects to other white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
New black wire connects to Hot wire.
Ground wires are connected together.

On your new receptacle, the black wire connects to brass screw, and white wire connects to silver screw.
Screws are color-coded to tell electrician how to wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

You posted under ST01C timer which has 3 wires: black blue and red (no white wire)
Your description seems to say your timer has 3 wires: black white and red

These are two different timers
I'm going to give you two different instructions that are dead-accurate for both types of timers above:

1) Instructions for ST01C and EJ500 Intermatic timers with black blue and red
Lets do the black and white with electricity:
The black Hot wire connects to Timer-black-wire
The white Neutral wire connects to white wire going to Load (to lights)

Now the black and white to the Load (lights)
The black to Load (to light) connects to Timer-blue-wire
The white wires are connected together with wire nut

The red wire is capped off, and used only if you have 3-way switching.
Green connects to bare ground

2) Instructions for all in-wall timers with black, red and white wires (except Aube series timers)
Lets do the black and white from electricity
The black Hot wire connects to Timer-black-wire
The white Neutral connects to Timer-white-wire and to white wire going to Load

Now the black and white to the Load
The black wire to Load connects to Timer-red-wire
all three white wires are connected and covered with wire nut
Green connects to bare ground

DO NOT CONNECT RED TO WHITE with any model in-wall timer and then turn on power or it can blow out the timer >>> I just did that while experimenting with the Utilitec 0192773.
Red wire goes to Load on all timers, except with Intermatic ST01C and EJ500

before u start make sure power is off before working with electrical lines ---start with the 12/2 coming into box black [power] white [ground-neutral] and u will have 3 separate lines for the lights so u will have 4 lines total coming in the box== with the 3 light lines take the white and strip back the plastic and connect [wire nut] all 3 to the 12/2 white line --now take the 12/2 black line and connect it to the first switch gold color screw- bottom screw -now take some wire about 2-3 inch strip both ends and connect from the 12/2 black wire connection on the switch and connect to the gold /bottom of switch 2 than do the same for switch 3 connecting the wire from switch 2 so u will have power feeding all 3 switches-- now connect the black lines for the lights to the other side of each switch and ur done

you nead to remove the green wire from the interior and tape it off.the whole point of the four-wire cord is to separate the ground from neutral,the green wire on the cord is attached to the cabinet.

Make sure you turn off the power at the power panel.
If you are lucky you will find the following in the electrical box behind the light:

1. A black wire that brings power from the fuse/breaker panel--connected directly to one or two other (black) wires (not to the light).
2. A white wire from the panel--connected to one or more white wires including one to the light.
3. A black or white (maybe taped black) wire that comes from the switch and is connected to the light.
4. A green or bare wire connected to the box and maybe also to the light.

If this is the case then you can run a new cable to a new electrical box in the wall for the GFI. Connect the new black wire to the Line In terminal/black wire of the GFI outlet and to the group of black wires in (1) above. Connect the new white wire to the Neutral terminal/white wire of the GFI outlet and to the group of white wires in (2) above. Connect the new green/bare wire to the Ground terminal/green wire of the GFI outlet and to the original box or ground wire. If there is a Load/Feed through wire on the GFI outlet, tape the end of it and do not use.
If the black and white wires described in (1) and (2) above do not appear in the electrical box at the light then they are probably in the switch box and there will be only one black wire and one white wire that connect to the light on the wall. In that case you will need to run a new cable from the switch box to the new outlet. You will not be able to wire the new outlet from the existing electrical box at the light unless you do it through the switch and it will not be on unless the switch is on.

If you had a 3 prong originaly you probably have only 3 wires to work with, either a red and black and white or a black and a black with a red stripe and a bare stranded wire. The black and red are ALWAYS the 2 hot wires 230 volt. The white or bare are the neutral / common wires. If you only have 3 you will need to get your equipment ground from a cold water line to the 4th prong.
Another option leave the 3 prong in the wall and install the old 3 prong pig tail on the new dryer then ground the frame of the dryer to the nearest cold water line. The water line must be metalic for this to work.
Dave

Is the receptacle in the wall a four prong or three prong. You will have to match the cord on the dryer to the wall recepticle. If the wall is four prong the dryer cord has to be a four prong. The green wire with the yellow line, that is on the end of the dryer cord, is a cabinet ground and should be attached to the cabinet of the dryer and making good contact. The other three wires on the end of the dyrer cord attach to the terminal block.

Need front grill for singer model WJA-12 wall heater Cat # 9756-A
single phase 60 HZ
240 volts 5.2 Amps
1250 Watts
Where can I find it?