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Posted on Aug 04, 2017
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I have a Bernina virtuosa 153 - am free motion quilting with bobbin thread in the bobbin and rayon above the fabric is cotton back with batting and sometimes 3 layers of fabric fused to a cotton back - the bobbin thread shows as little white dots when I make turns, I have lowered the upper tension to 3 - how can I obtain a smooth stitch. My machine was purchased in March 2002 and never been serviced

1 Answer

Wayne Buss

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  • Bernina Expert 121 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2019
Wayne  Buss
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Never been serviced? Whoops, as an old tech, I'm not surprised, how often do you oil your machine and is it with quality Bernina oil or a light synthetic oil?
Have you checked the bobbin case tension? As you are using two types of thread there will always be some imbalance of tensions best when you are turning corners to slow down your movement that will help a bit, but you may have to tighten bottom tension
also another hint would be to use a Metallica or topstitching needle with a larger eye, allowing the upper thread to move more freely as the thread forms the stitches.
if you need further help
wayne Buss
[email protected]

5 Related Answers

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2008

SOURCE: how do I know which tension to adjust?

Are you sure that a stitch is being created each time, or is it missing some....

On a scrap, sew a zigzag to ensure that at least the stitches are being formed, if not, or missing some, look to timing.

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

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RickE1

Rick

  • 202 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 20, 2008

SOURCE: Timing for Bernina Virtuosa 153

Timing these machines gets pretty involved such as in just removing the covers. You need a grounding ******** your wrist as the cables all need to be unplugged and you don't want to send a static charge from yourself to the circuit boards. They are expensive. Then you need special sized metal pins to pin several pinning points so the needle, hook, stepping motors and feed dogs all co-ordinate with each other. Also several places need certain guages to set less than .1 millimeter size distances between different places to avoid other problems. You also need several sized torx screwdrivers and the knowledge to adjust the upper and lower tensions. The upper tension alone has at least 3 or four places that need to be in the correct position.
All of the above has to be done in a certain order also.
Its complicated enough. If someone is going to walk you through this over the phone expect it to be complicated. Even if you had a copy of the manual (which could be a copywrite infringment on newer machines) you can expect it to be difficult.
My advice is to leave it to the professionals to have it done right.

Anonymous

  • 78 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 14, 2008

SOURCE: thread loops on back using quilt stitch

You need to put more tention into the Corners, Try puttin a tention of 10 into the Quilt. And it should work fine. 10-12 Maximum, don't go pass 12 because it will probably Rip, or Shrill up. Hope this Helped.

Thanks for Using FixYa! -CA

Anonymous

  • 22 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: difficulty sewing quilt blocks

this is because the feed dogs grab and carry the bottom layer, the top layers glide along.  There are several solutions. #1  pinning, pinning, more pinning #2 support the layers by holding the piece in front of the machine with one hand and behind the machine with the other hand.  if you're left handed and try to do this, bless your heart, it's tough #3 use a walking foot or a roller foot or an even feed, depending on your machine #4 it is possible to reduce the tension on the presser foot while you work on this piece.  just remember to put it back before you start to sew on the next project!
there are more tricks but this should get you started.  Happy Stitching!

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 11, 2009

SOURCE: Unbalanced lower tension when using BSR free motion quilting

try using a straight stitch plate, this will help resolve some of the eye lash effect. 

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The PC8500 does not do free motion well because of its tension design, it is not you.It was one of he earlier machines to set tension by the thickness of the fabric. If you really want to do free motion then it is time for a different machine.
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I have a Janome Horison Memory Craft 8900 SpEd, thread looping on backing side for free motion. DO i NEED Part No. 200-445-007 Janome Bobbin Holder for Free Quilting and Hand-Look Quilt Stitch.

Free motion quilting is a finicky function, much more than most other sewing. Since you are getting loops on the back of the fabric, try increasing the upper thread tension. Tension causes the top and bobbin threads to pull against each other. If the pull is not equal, the threads will be pulled to one side or the other.

If you continue to experience looping under the fabric, it could be that the top thread is not fully seated in the tension disk. Try this:

Remove the top thread completely from the machine.
Be sure to install a brand new sharp needle.
ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot and rethread from the beginning.
Retest your machine.

However, if you don't find a fix, $25 for the special bobbin holder is probably a reasonable cost if it takes care of the problem. The reviews seem to be good:

http://www.sewvacdirect.com/janome-bobbin-case-for-free-motion-quilting-fits-models-mc14000-mc6500p-mc6600p-mc11000-mc7700-mc12000-and-more/

https://thequiltshow.com/forum/domestic-sewing-machines/120-janome-mc6600p
"Yesterday I bought a new free motion quilting foot and a bobbinholder (for free motion) for my MC Janome 6600P. I have been quilting all day, and belive you me it is a greate investment!!! :lol: :lol: Its like sewing on butter :lol: :shock:

Free motion Quilting Foot: part no.: 200-442-004 (MC6600P and MC11000)

Bobbin Holder (for free quilting and hand-look quiltstitch): part no.: 200-445-007 (MC 6600P, MC11000 and MC6500)

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:lol: :D :wink: I am sooooo happy!!!!"


https://www.getasquiltingstudio.com/2012/01/free-motion-quilting-tips-ii.html

LOOPS Tension or Speed

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Why wont my Bernina Virtuosa quilt three layers of fabric including a polyester batting?

Depends what exactly is happening with your machine, not stitching? fabric not moving? pulling up polyester??? puckering?? tension issues?? Verify it is threaded correctly. It could be an incompatibility of the needle/thread/fabric sandwich. Be sure to use a brand new sharp needle. You may need a walking foot. If it is not a good quality of polyester batting, it could cause issues. Poor quality thread. Tension not adjusted. Etc...

You can probably narrow down the problem by trying different batting, different fabric, different needles, and different thread on scrap fabric sandwiches.
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How to Free motion quilting on Janome 1600P QC

Be sure to use a darning foot (or free motion quilting foot).
Use a brand new sharp needle, ie top stitch, embroidery, or microtex work well.
Check that the thread, needle, and fabric are compatible--Caution, the needle eye should be the right size for the thread weight.
AVOID old or bargain bin thread!
Be sure to drop or cover the feed dogs.
If your machine has it, use the needle down feature.
You may need to adjust the tension for FMQ--I have to tighten the bobbin tension a little to keep the bobbin thread below the quilt surface (so I bought a special bobbin case and set the tension for FMQ and that's all I use it for.)

Lots of web sites that talk about how to free motion quilt. Then, it's PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! I use a portable white board and draw free motion designs on it (while watching TV, etc.). The idea is to get it fluid without jerking, jumping, speeding up or slowing down, etc. When your hand and brain are able to work smoothly, then you can probably do free motion quilting. Practice on scraps of fabric and batting (preferably the same kind you will be working on). Cut up some 14 inch squares of fabric and batting and draw designs on them and see if you can stitch them. Some advice: don't watch the needle...look at where you are going in front of the needle. Don't expect perfection to happen overnight. Many quilters have been FMQing for years and still make mistakes. (I've made a few quilts and my stuff still looks less than professional, but it's all mine!)

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My machine used to free motion quilt without a hitch, now it is skipping stitches.

Basic Tips for All
  1. Always turn the handwheel TOWARDS you (counter clockwise) as turning it in the opposite direction (away from you, clockwise) may knock the timing out requiring repair from a service center.
  2. Always be sure your presser foot is in the DOWN position before sewing. Sewing with the presser foot in the up position will cause your thread to tangle and your bobbin to jam.
  3. Change needles regularly (after 16 hours of use) as dull/weak needles can cause damage to your machine and fabric. Only use SINGER needles on your SINGER sewing machine.
  4. Always be sure you are using the correct bobbin for your machine. Class 66, Class 15 and Class 15J bobbins look very similar. However, using the incorrect bobbin class in your machine can cause damage.
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Bernina virtuosa 153

When you say cluster you mean the thread is bunching under the fabric. It is usually the top thread that is the problem. Check your top thread tension and make sure the thread is in the take up lever.
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12 wt thread generally will not work well in the bobbin...


"Aurifil 12wt Thread
Aurifil 12 wt thread is ideal for hand quilting, big stitch hand quilting and machine quilting. 12 weight thread creates a more defined and often primitive look. It's great for designs that use a longer stitch length if using a machine. When machine quilting with 12 wt thread, use 40 wt in the bobbin, increase your stitch length, lower your tension, use Topstitch size 90 needles and stitch slowly."
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I cannot get a perfect stitch on my Bernina 1260. Some of the bobbin thread shows on top no matter what I try. I have tried different needles, threads, tension settings (even adjusting bobbin tension). It...

Possibly its the check spring that takes up the slack in the thread as the needle pierces the fabric. slowly lower the needle through the fabric and watch if there is slack in the thread just above the fabric. If there is then this check spring needs to be adjusted. I hate to say this and its not just because I am a Bernina tech but its time for it to be serviced. many things might be the culprit. The distance between the hook and needle could be off for one more reason. Or something dirty or fluff under the spring the thread goes under on the bobbincase. Either a servicing or use the same color bobbin thread beneith is in order. Wish I could help more but you have tried a lot so I ruled those out such as tighter bobbin tension or looser upper tension or the combination of both.
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