I have a Roland Plus 70 electric piano (1982 era). A number of black and white keys have stopped working, from the left, white key 10 through to 16 and black keys 7 to 12. Initially, turning the power off and then on brought the function back on these keys. But over a number of day the period of time that the keys worked got less and less. Until the turning off and on had no effect. It's an old keyboard, but I have became quite attached to it and would appreciate your views on it. Regards, Eleanor.

Ch?o b?n, v?n ?? n?y c? kh? ??n gi?n, ??c bi?t ? Piano ?i?n hay c? tr?ng th?i n?y, b?n c? th? ghi l?i c?c ph?m b? m?t ?m thanh, sau ?? m? ?ai ?c ra, b?n d??i ??n c? n?t cao su b?n ch? c?n b?o v? c?i n?t ?? l? ???c.

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On the rear of the piano there will be two 1/4" jacks labeled Output Left and Right. One will be labled Mono as well. If you are using a stereo amp, use both, and if a mono amp use just the mono output. If your amp is a guitar type, connect a shielded cable with 1/4" phone jacks such as you'd use with an electric guitar from these jacks to your amplifier. If you are useing a home stereo amp, you will need a cable with 1/4" phone jacks from the piano to RCA phono jacks on the amp end.

Resetting Instructions:
1) Try a partial reset by holding down the last white key while turning the unit ON.
2) If you haven't recorded any performance(s), for a full reset, hold down on the last white key AND THE lst three black keys while turning the unit ON.

Reset Instructions:
1) Try a partial reset by holding down the last white key while turning the unit ON.
2) If you haven't recorded any performance(s), for a full reset, hold down on the last white key AND THE lst three black keys while turning the unit ON.

One of the lines in the keyboard scanner has opened up. I have an idea what it might be and it is a nasty problem involving circuit traces that are silver conductive paint on a plastic insulating base that separate from a jumper at each end of the strip that the key contacts are made by conductive rubber pills pressed down by the keys. The contact of the flexible circuit under the keys to the jumper cable can be broken by vibration. I have an EPS7 with the problem and other than replacing the whole contact strip under the keys it really has no easy solution.You should probably have a Roland shop look at this problem. If your unit has this same arrangement it is repairable only by replacing the whole key contact strip.

White spirit is NOT what you should use. Mineral spirit leaves a residue film.

Use 99% isoprophyl alcohol.

ALSO inspect the contactboard for cracks by candeling with bright light behind it.

Roland FP is a nice keyboard but has a known problem on cracking key weights. There is a counter weight under each key to push the key upward. There are two sizes of weight beams, longer one for white keys and shorter one for black keys. Roland did not make the original weight beams strong enough to last. They will crack and eventually break. When it happens, the key will stay down. Fortunately, they can be easily replaced.

Roland FP-8 has 4 black screws at the bottom on each side end. Remove the screws, flip the ends up and expose the interior. Near the hinge of the problematic key, carefully ply open the hinge tabs and remove the key from the hinge. You will find a weight beam under the key. Remove and inspect the weight. There should be a metal wrapped in a plastic beam. If the metal part is missing, find the missing part and replace with a new beam. You can order weight beams from Roland. It costs about $10 each plus shipping. Put everything back in the reversed order.

Did you ever get hold of an FP-8 service manual? The weight replacement is relatively simple: The case opens by removal of eight screws, four at each end on the underside. The top then hinges up. Keyboard assembly is removed by first unplugging the two white ribbon connectors at the center, then removing the screws at the front edge (underneath) and the screws (gold) at the back of the assembly (accessible from the top). Keys pop out by spreading the two "wings" at the pivot point, and then the weights (Roland calls them "hammers") lift out. Roland will sell you new ones, but I have no idea whether the replacements are any better than the originals. I've done two of these pianos so far, and have a third waiting to be worked on. I do have a service manual, but I think I downloaded it freebee somewhere.
The other failure mode on this piano is the electolytic coupling caps on the output board - I've replaced all of them on both pianos - don't remember the value offhand.
Paul Prestopino [email protected]

If it is in an area that you play a lot it might be the membrane contact strip that needs to be replaced. They come in sections and can be replaced with some careful work with the right parts if they are still available. If the membranes themselves are ripped they usually have to be replaced. If the contacts in the membranes are dirty they need to be carefully cleaned. In your case as it is a section of notes there may be a connector that has worked loose (not usual but possible). Further than that requires the schematic and tools and troubleshooting electronics experience. If you are not comfortable with tackling this yourself contact several musical equipment dealers that sell Roland products for their opinions and prices per hour for repairs. Also check piano tuners and repair places for advice. Hope this helps.

You may need to clean the contacts which are usually conductive rubber. I explained stuff for another Roland problem with two keys that were intermittent. I have an EP-7 that I had to do the cleaning of the key contacts. Use 91 or 99 % Isoprophyl alcohol to clean BOTH the conductive "pill" (Black under silicone rubber domes) AND the traces on the board where they press. Clean gently as the traces have a hard black coating.