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Remove the side cover, bar and chain, can you now turn the sprocket by hand? place the chain in the bar and pull it around the bar, does it move freely around the sprocket nose of the bar?Remove the side cover, bar and chain, can you now turn the sprocket by hand? place the chain in the bar and pull it around the bar, does it move freely around the sprocket nose of the bar?
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It won't have hurt the bar but the drive links on the bottom of some of the chain will be burred up. You can clean them up with a grinder if the damage is minor but a new chain will fix it. Regards Phil.
I get asked this question a lot , im gonna have to make a video on this subject someday .
but here:
1st ck your oil viscosity/SAE it should be 30 and say bar/chain oil
next dump out entire oil tank and wash out with kerosene (you'd be surprised what I seen come out)
then remove bar and chain , locate oil outlet it's in body of saw near adjustment screw , use a small can of air to blow in this port softly , use a touch more of kero to clean this all out , refill tank with proper oil !!!! and run saw (no need to put bar/chain back on yet ) might take several minutes but oil should start to flow out hole !! stop saw and reinstall bar/chain then run again .. fixed !! if no oil comes out ever your oil pump is gonna need some fixing
for a low cost oil I use filtered used motor oil cut down with a dab of kerosene
Jeff: Loosen the two nuts on the right side cover of the saw (1/2 inch socket) turn them out 2 turns. Use a flat blade screwdriver on the screw at the right side front of the housing (near where the bar comes out of the saw). Turn the screw right until the chain can only be pulled up 1/8 of an inch at the top center of the bar. tighten the two 1/2 inch nuts. The two nuts clamp the bar so it won't move. If the chain tensioner still won't work, remove the right side housing by removing the two 1/2 inch nuts and look at the tensioner assembly and how it fits into the chain bar. The problem will be obvious. If you need to replace the tensioner assembly, a new one can be ordered through http://www.husqvarna.com.
If this is the tooless system, flip open the wing on the bar cover securing nut, slacken off one turn, now use the knurled wheel in the cove to slacken, or tighten the chain, if it has two 13mm bar nuts, slacken them off one turn each, then use a flat blade screw driver through the side cover, betwwen the bar nuts to adjust the chain, the screw is quite small so clean away the saw dust to locate it.
If it is an electric chainsaw (not gas powered) then the only oil you need is chainsaw bar oil, which lubricates the chain and bar during use (self feeding system). This goes into the chamber at the top of the saw. You can buy chain/bar oil for chainsaws at any good hardware store or outdoor power equipment store. You can use any brand of chain bar oil, most are pretty good.
If it is a gas/petrol operated model, I will need to know the model number to advise on that.
Chain is probably stretched. SAFETY FIRST. Electric saw, make sure power is unplugged. Gas saw, make sure sparkplug wire is removed. Remove the cover where the bar is attached to the saw. U should see an adjustment screw for chain tension and one or more bar lockdown screws. Loosen the lockdown screws and turn the tension adjustment screw to permit the bar to slide back toward the motor. Put the chain back in the bar track all the way around. Adjust the tension screw to tighten chain enough you can't pull it out of the track at any spot. Slide the chain by hand at least one complete revolution feeling for any rough spots. If it moves freely, turn the tension screw enough to tighten the chain properly. Correct tension should allow you to pull the chain appx. 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the bar. Tighten the lockdown screws, replace the cover. Rotate chain by hand a couple of revolutions again to check for smoothness again before starting the saw.
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