A square, flat component fits over a treaded metal screw with one side flattened and sits in a depression to hold on the plastic fan blade and make it turn with the fan motor. Both the flat metal component and the nut to hold it on have fallen off and are lost. Can these parts be obtained and if so how much would they cost? Thanks.

You will notice there is a little hook that the spring thing fits into on the device. You want the smaller part of the spring facing upwards and it should tuck in smoothly.

This is the smaller part of the spring facing upwards:


Then it gets tucked in as such:

Take note from the above photo that the square edges on the plastic piece go at the top of the blade piece and the rounded edges are at the bottom.

Then the bottom blade piece rests on top with the curvature facing upwards:
The rest should be straightforward!

WARNING: Before you start troubleshooting remember that you are dealing with electricity that can KILL. http://www.kitchentablecomputers.com/static.php - rules Only work inside the computer case when the power has been switched off and disconnected. Never open the power source. Some of the below steps recommend removing physical parts within the computer. While in the computer it is highly recommend that you be aware of ESD and its potential hazards You don't need to be a certified computer tech to upgrade your computer and remove malfunctioning components. All of the components inside your Compaq desktop computer are hidden behind the side access panel, and can be removed and replaced individually.

Turn off the computer's operating system and unplug any cables or devices connected to any of the Compaq's ports. Wait five minutes to ensure the internal components are cooled down. Set the computer case over on its side on a sturdy work surface. Touch either hand to the metal ports on the far-back side of the case to release any static electricity in your body. Remove both Phillips screws positioned at the back edge of the side access panel and set them in a container. Some Compaq models instead use a large plastic thumbscrew, which must be manually turned counter-clockwise to unlock the side panel. Pull the panel off the Compaq computer so the components inside the case are visible. Push in the plastic button on the edge of the front access panel. Pull the panel forward and to the right to remove it from the computer's case. Find the square metal box that houses the power supply at the upper-left corner of the case. Disconnect all of the cables connecting the power supply to the motherboard and the drives at the right side of the case. Remove the four screws holding the power supply in place and pull the entire unit out of the computer. Find the thin green memory modules positioned near the right edge of the motherboard. Depress the plastic locking latches connected to the top and bottom end of each module. Lift the modules off their motherboard ports and set them aside. Remove the two screws holding the plastic fan in place at the middle of the Compaq's motherboard. With some models you instead need to push down a metal clip. Disconnect the fan's cable and remove the fan. Lift off the metal heat sink positioned underneath the fan to reveal the square processor unit. Lift the plastic lever on the edge of the processor and pull the processor off the motherboard. Locate the line of horizontally positioned expansion cards near the bottom of the motherboard. Remove the screw holding each expansion card in place and remove the cards by pulling them directly upward. Locate the hard drive and optical drive in the metal bays at the far right end of the case. Remove the screws holding each drive in place. Push the drives forward and pull them out of the front end of the computer's case. Remove the screws positioned along the top and bottom edges of the motherboard. The exact number of screws varies between Compaq models, but will usually be eight or six. Slide the entire motherboard slightly towards the front of the computer case and pull the motherboard out of the case to finish disassembling the computer. Hope this helps.

I believe the problem may be the cooling fan, of the Fan Assembly.

Dirt, dust, hair, food crumbs, lint, you name it, can be drawn up into the laptop by this fan.
This can cause a strain on the fan's bearings.

It could also be that the fan's bearings have simply failed. They are dry, hence the occasional howling noise.

The method is to open the laptop, and physically check the fan.

Dell Support > Inspiron 5100 Notebook PC > Service Manual,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins5100/en/sm/index.htm

FIRST thing;
FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions.

Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

Suggest wear an ESD wrist strap, and connect it's alligator clip to a good ground source. (Electro Static Discharge)

Basic example of an ESD wrist strap,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103245

[ I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer case. Just one example ]

On the Dell Support > Service Manual page, click on -
Microprocessor Thermal-Cooling Assembly

This shows the Fan Assembly. It is connected to the Microprocessor Thermal-Cooling Assembly.

Another view of the Fan Assembly,

http://www.brilliantstore.com/laptop-cooling-pad-dell-cpa-1606.html

View of the Microprocessor Thermal-Cooling Assembly, with the Fan Assembly,

http://www.laptopbattery-usa.com/dell-inspiron-1100-5100-5150-laptop-cpu-cooling-fan-p-1238.html?zenid=okh2t54jgsg369stoj7gipf3k5

See the 4 screws sticking up, and the squarish metal plate they go down in?
This plate sits on top of the Processor.

The two curved slightly flattened copper pipes, are Cooling Tubes.
They are sealed on both ends, and are filled with Nitrogen.

They attach to the squarish metal plate, that sits on top of the Processor, and the other end of them goes to a Heatsink.

This cannot be seen in the photo.
The Heatsink is a rectangular finned object.
Has Tall, Thin, fins.

Heat is absorbed from the Processor, by the squarish metal plate sitting on top of it.The Cooling Tubes then absorb the heat from the squarish metal plate.

Heat is then transferred along the Cooling Tubes, to the Heatsink.
The Heatsink absorbs the heat, then radiates it away with it's fins.
Air from the Fan Assembly, helps carry heat away from the Heatsink fins.

The Fan's blades, center hub, and surrounding cage, (Shroud), must be clean. If the fan's blades are dirty, the result could be an unbalanced fan.

Makes the fan tilt to one side, and possibly scrape the blades on the Shroud.
Also over time the dirt, dust, etc, can cause the Fan's bearings to fail.

Gently see if you can move the Fan up, and down. Gently grab a blade of the Fan, and see if you can move the Fan. You will know if the Fan's blades have too much movement up, and down. (Or tilt to the side)

If the Fan is bad, (Bearings), see if you can buy just the Fan, and replace it.
If not you may wish to replace the entire Microprocessor Thermal-Cooling Assembly.

Should this be the case post back in a Comment.
I need to guide you in proper replacement.

[ You need to Thoroughly clean the top of the Processor, and the bottom of the squarish metal plate that sits on it.
Then Thermal Paste needs to be Properly applied, and the 4 screws tightened down in a sequence ]

Regards,
joecoolvette

The top skinny ring that is made of plastic is the one that needs to turn. The metal bell shaped piece does not turn. My plastic ring would not turn either. I took a flat blade screwdriver and stuck it between the plastic ring and metal bell shaped piece. I gently pryed the plastic ring away from the bell shaped piece. The plastic ring has 4 screws that hold it in place, they are at the 8 oclock, 10 oclock, 2 and 4 oclock positions. The ring has to be turned counter-clockwise when looking up at the fan from underneath. Once the ring is off take the 4 screws out and the fan will come down.

This is most of the time due to excessive dust covered on processor heat sink try cleaning in side with pressure air by removing keyboard.

yes, the plastic fan blade is only held on by the pressure of the plastic on the metal shaft. if the plastic hole is worn and the fan doesn't fit tight, then you may want to replace the plastic fan.

Whew!! Finally figured this one out!
How to Clean Seville Classics Tower Fan
Approx Time: 1.5 hrs

Tools:
Long Phillips head screw driver
Metal Skewer or very thin/sturdy screw driver
Empty egg carton (to keep track to the hundreds of screws)
Leatherman or small pliers
Toothbrush
Vacuum

Make sure the fan is unplugged!

1.Filp fan over and remove the 2 larger screws that hold the pedestal together (keep screws organized)
2.Remove the 4 inner screws that connect to the base
3.Remove base
4.Unscrew the 6 screws that hold the lower rear cover
5.Remove lower rear cover
6.Unscrew the 4 screws around the underside of the fan case (in a half circle)
---Very Important in cleaning---
7.Replace pedestal! Yes all 6 screws (4) smaller inner screws and (2) larger screws
8.Stand fan upright (lower rear base cover removed)
9.At top of control panel (buttons) locate a small circular hole (top of fan) towards the rear handle
10.Take the skewer or thin/sturdy screw driver and stick it in the whole
11.Gently but firmly pop up the control panel. (it took some patience, working around the panel but it popped up.
12.Remove (4) screws and remove the secondary plate
13.Remove (3) larger screws toward the front of the fan and (4) smaller screws around the edge
---Leave the screws in the metal plate in place---
14.Remove the 3rd cover
---Now the fun part!!---
15.To remove the metal screen push the plastic front in slightly at the edge with the open plastic vents (this side doesn't have tabs). There is a bent edge that is held in place by the plastic screen on this side.
16.Continue to pry the screen backwards and push edge with tabs (side of plastic front with no vents) towards the front of the fan. There are 3 metal tabs that slide in the plastic front at that edge.
---The front plastic vent face should be left in place, all of the control wires run through it---
17.With metal screen off, you can use your vacuum (highly recommended) while you scrape the "turbine" with the toothbrush. There are a lot little turbine edges and they get quite dirty. Vacuum is a must!! In fact, I had mine running the entire time.
---The plastic turbine does not come off and must be cleaned in place---
18.Putting it back together!!! The metal screen tabs might have bent a little when you pried it off, I used a leatherman (pliers) to bend them straight. With patience you slide the tabs back into the plastic slots (working from the bottom up is best), slowly start to place the screen back around the fan. When you get to the side with the bent edge, you must push the plastic vent face inward (bottom up is easiest) in order to snap the screen around the edge.
19.Now, while not letting the plastic front slip from the metal screen, grab the plastic plate and slide it on top (make sure to get the metal rod back into the rubber gasket) and push down. This will hold the metal screen in place.
20.Put all the screws back in place and snap the control panel back on.
21.Remove the bottom pedestal in order to put the rear plate back on.
22.Replace the pedestal.

This is definately a fan made by engineers with disposable income that can afford to buy a new fan every year instead of cleaning it on a regular basis! I have had my fan for the past 4 years and always leave my windows open. After sometime, the performance when down, barely eeked out a breeze and shot dust bunnies on to my carpet. Often it would overheat and shut off automatically.

After all this time, I finally figured out how to clean it and boy, was I suprised how much dirt and junk this fan collects.

Hope this helps all the frustrated tower fan owners!!

1. install round washer first flat side facing you.
2. round plastic washer next flat side facing the washer.
3. next step blade.
4. next step square plastic washer label facing you.
5. then the square metal washer, make it flash with the shaft flat side.
6. tighten nut by hand at first then use impact tool if you have.

Wedge a short piece of 2x4 between the blade and the housing,
turn clockwise to tighten !

manual on web www.oyster.com