I have a single pole switch that currently controls a bedroom outlet. i am installing a fan and light in the bedroom. i have a new triple switch that i want to control the existing outlet, the fan and the light. the current switch has a 14-2 wire connected to it. i have run a 12-3 wire from the ceiling box to the existing switch box. im not certain how i should hook up the 12-3 wire to the new triple switch to ensure that each switch controls its own device.

Is the switch wired wrong?
Does the switch have 4 wires?
Look at wiring for single-pole timer and see it it applies to your switch
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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The Cooper 7729w is a three pole single throw switch with a common (connected) hot wire that supplies it. What you had before was two separate single pole single throw switches and one single pole double throw switch that is used as a three way. The short answer is NO that replacement will not work UNLESS you don't want the other switch on the other side of the room to work.


Personally, I think that if you really need to ask this question you need to seek the advice of a professional electrician.

11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Open following link to see illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-gang.jpg

Each residential electric box has 1 hot wire. This wire should be black.
Hot wire carries power from the breaker box.
Use tester and find hot wire.

Each device in box connects to the black hot wire using short jumper wires.

Outlets: Hot wire connects to brass colored screw.
Single-pole switches: Hot wire connects to either brass-colored screw.

Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together.
Neutral wires connect directly to silver screw on each outlet.

Wire going to lights connects to other brass screw on each switch.

there should be a hot wire to the fan just look for the other wire one for fan one light one heat its there, good luck

I don't think you can do what you are trying. The fan & light are on one circuit. Probably, originally, there was only a light fixture there. The fan/light is on a single circuit and the remote does the controlling of both units.
Now, you are trying to install a fan control and light dimmer but you don't have wiring for each separately.
You might be able to use one of the dimmer controls to adjust the output to the fan/light combination, but you can't control them individually, if I understand your wiring.
Gary

This extra wires where taps for the non working components you mentioned.

ok, i think what you mean is a 3-way switch- meaning two different switches that control one light and a single (pole) switch that only controls one light. you can't do that with the above switch. You need a combination 3-way and single pole switch.

YOu need to make sure that the maestro you installed is designed for use with electric motors. CHeck out this page on the lutron site... http://www.lutron.com/CMS400/page.aspx?id=16955&mn=1797. THese are the dimmers you can use with a fan. If it is in the same box the magnetic interference can cause the types of reactions you are mentioning.

If this is not the problem you need more info-- is the light part of the fan, is there a separate wire for fan motor and light? what type of switch is controlling the light (assuming the maestro dimmer is controlling the fan motor etc...