Is there a diagram of how to run the belt on the tensioner, have new belt around drum already. Don't know what it is suppose to look like. Thanks Dave Ball at ([email protected])

If you've lost the sticker under the hood and there is no diagram in the owner's manual, you can find it in a Haynes or Chilton's manual for your vehicle. It may even be printed on the wrapper for your new belt. Most auto parts stores also have a copy of the diagram.

If you're stuck out in the boonies, the old belt is already off, and don't have any of this information, you'll have to work it out. Start by noting the grooved side of the belt is on the inside. The crankshaft pulley on the bottom is generally grooved. Look for the next pulley in line to the upper left from the crank pulley. It is probably smooth, so the belt goes around it counter-clockwise from right to left (smooth side). Next should be a grooved pulley, so the belt would wrap around the outside in the clockwise direction. Continue working your way around in this manner until you get back to the crankshaft pulley. The rule is "clockwise is groovy." Make sure you pick up all of the pulleys. As a check on your work, verify that the belt tensioner would pull the belt tighter when installed according to your diagram. You most likely have two or even three grooved pulleys in a row at or near the top - this will be a straight shot with no wrap around a smooth pulley.

The belt tensioner is generally a smooth pulley and is often the first one off the crankshaft pulley going clockwise. The A/C clutch, power steering and alternator are generally grooved. The water pump may be either one and is often the last one going back to the crankshaft pulley. It is rare to have two smooth pulleys in a row. The belt is never arranged so it contacts itself on a full wrap. If the belt is very loose when it's engaged on the tensioner, and the tensioner spring isn't broken, you'll have to rework your tentative diagram - the belt may go across the pulleys in a different order.

The most difficult part aside from working out the proper belt wrapping is loosening the belt tensioner so you can get the belt on. Some vehicles require a breaker bar and socket on the tensioner center bolt (there's no room for a ratchet). Others have a slot in the side of the tensioner where you can insert a large screwdriver to pull against the tensioner.

Hello. The belt goes around the tub and the tension pulley. In fact, it is always a good idea to replace both the belt and the idler/tension pulley at the same time. J.

If you want a schematic go to searsdirect.com and enter your model number. J.

If you are referring to the tension pulley that keeps the belt tight on the drum, it is common for it to come loose when the belt breaks because there is no longer any tension holding it in place. Just follow these steps to reinstall:

1. Make sure the drive belt is looped around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place with your left hand, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram H.


If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the dryer door opening) so that I may be able to confirm your dryer configuration. I hope this helps you.

the belt number 341241, that should be packaged with a diagram as how to wind it around the motor shaft , and the idler pulley.youll need to pull the front off the machine to gain acees to the drumm area, fom there you can drape the belt over the drum, "red side out"might be a difficult to try to hold up the drum and try to secure the belt without the use of another set of hands( the front panel that you removed holds the weight of the unit normally) afeter you get the draped belt around the ider pully "snaps into the lower cabinet so that you can pull hte tension to the right. after fully extending the pully to the right wrap the belt around motor pully and allow the idler to release and hold tension on the belt. it will only go on one way! only tricky the first time , youll get it!!!

Flat side of the belt goes agaist the drum. The diagram is on the new belt

The belt probably broke first, which caused the idler pulley to come loose. This is normal. With no tension on the pulley it will commonly fall over. To re-install, follow these steps:

1. Loop the new drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. If this is a Kenmore dryer, it will be manufactured by Whirlpool. Refer to diagram H. If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Generally belt comes around drum then around pulley tensioner and then back to motor pulley in a zigzag fashion