I think the rocker switch has gone, as there is no resistance when I operate the switch, no red light & the speakers are dead. I have checked ths mains fuse which is OK. My JUSTer speakers have a 203204 sticker, they are Digital Series & about 12 years old, can the be fixed ?

1) Make certain there is power to the unit, 2) Check the power switch in the unit area (a rocker switch), 3) If there is still absolutely no power (no lights, no clicks, no hum, dead) then check the power to the controller located in the top of the refrigerator section. The controller operates all the components, so if it has power but there is no outputs (ie. nothing works) then it is the problem. This is unusual so check items 1 & 2 first. A worst case scenario may require pulling the unit forward to access the house wall receptacle.

The red light is a power protection circuit designed to shut the amplifier down due to an overload or wiring problem. If the amp was playing then shut off, my guess is a problem with the speakers or the speaker wiring. Some amplifiers are only stable to a certain load. For example, most car audio speakers are 4 ohms which is the resistance placed upon your amplifier to produce a certain volume of sound. If you bridge two 4 ohm speakers together in parallel, you cut the resistance in half, thus increasing the amount of power (and volume) to your speakers. This also creates more heat and could, in effect, shut your amplifier down. I would find out how the speakers are wired to determine the resistance of the load your amplifier is pushing. Also check the grounding.

FIRST DISS-CONNECT POWER FROM RECEIVER.... DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY SERVICE / TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURES TO ELECTRICAL DEVICES PRIOR TO REMOVING ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now that the power cord is unplugged we can start. We shall start this repair by doing the easiest tests/checks first. That DOES NOT MEAN that just because the test is easy, its not very important.... every recommendation to follow is JUST as important as the next! (even if what is asked to be checked sounds un-important... its not! Follow this advice and YOU WILL RESOLVE YOUR ISSUE! TRUST ME... YOU WILL FIX THIS issue & before the days over.... SMILE & BE HAPPY! OK...... lets get started) First lets Check the power cord... unpluged? Sure hope so! Now the first thing that you have to do is check ALL the speaker connections at both ends!!!!!!!! (@ speaker & Receiver) Be certain ALL connections are tight & that NO strands of wire are shorting out the connections by touching each other...... the ends of ALL speaker wires must be seperate from each other at all times!!!! Each wire must ONLY be connected to one post/connector!!!!! Only ONE speaker should be connected to each terminal.... do not connect additional speakers to connections at any time!!!!!!!!!!! ONLY ONE can be applied to EACH OUTPUT TERMINAL!!!!!! If the speakers your using are fuse protected check fuses or circuit breakers accordingly. One open circuit (unconnected output terminal) or shorted (wires touching together) will immediatelly trigger receiver to SHUT DOWN!!!!!!! Receiver MUST have a load (speaker) connected to each speaker output to operate properly. Should all wires be found connected properly after checking at both speaker terminals & receiver terminals & problem is still accuring after reapplying power....... additional resistance checks must be made using an OHM Meter (available at most harware stores). If one of the speakers being used has burned out / gone bad / broke...... the only way to determine this condition is via a resistance measurment. Disconnect the speaker wire from the back of each speaker prior to doing resistance check!!! (a false reading will be observed if the speaker wire is still connected during this test) Now touch each of the two speaker terminals with one of the meter leads (the meter must be set to OHMS or RESISTANCE during this test for proper reading). The resistance reading observed should be NO LESS THAN 3 OHMS & NO MORE THAN 10 OHMS !!!!!!!!! Should the resistance/ohm's value of any speaker being used / connected to the receiver be found by the OHM Meter to read LESS than 3 OHMS = speaker shorted... MUST be replaced! Should the resistance/ohm's value of any speaker being used / connected to the receiver be found by the OHM Meter to read MORE than 10 OHMS = speaker open.... Must be replaced! Connecting damaged speakers to any receiver for a prolonged period of time WILL DAMAGE RECEIVER!!!!!!! Speaker resistance MUST be between 3 & 10 ohms to avoid damage to output transistors in receiver.... when receiver senses less than a resistance of 3 or more of a resistance than 10 @ ANY speaker terminal during operation................. IMMEDIATE AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN OF RECEIVER WILL OCCURE!!!!!!! You've got a bad speaker or a loose speaker wire or a shorted speaker wire...... check each of your speaker connections/terminals & you'll find your problem! When you do find a loose or shorted wire associated with the speakers......... you'll have found your problem! Trust me.... you CAN do it!!!! and when you do... you will SMILE !!!!!!!! & be HAPPY!!!!!!!
GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!

sounds as though (at high volumes) the amp thinks it has a short circuit. This may be caused by the way you have them connected.
Speakers have a resistance and amps needs a certain amount of resistance to function right (too little resistance = short circuit)
The way it works out for the speakers is, if the two are connected to one amp output channel, the amp will see half of the resistance of a single sub. (4 Ohms/sub amp sees 2 Ohms)
If the amp instructions say that it's 4 Ohms/channel then you need to use 1 channel for each sub.
Hope this has been some help.

protect comes on bfor several reasons:

1. short circuit/crossed speaker wires- examine the speaker cables very carefully, paying particular attention to loose strands at the ends that may be crossing.

2. blown speaker/fried vioce coil- push in on the speaker and it should push down about an inch with no resistance befopre bottoming out. if there is resistance, and/or it feels scratchy/rubbing when pushing in then the speaker is blown.

3. blown amp.

The red light is a power protection circuit designed to shut the amplifier down due to an overload or wiring problem. If the amp was playing then shut off, my guess is a problem with the speakers or the speaker wiring. Some amplifiers are only stable to a certain load. For example, most car audio speakers are 4 ohms which is the resistance placed upon your amplifier to produce a certain volume of sound. If you bridge two 4 ohm speakers together in parallel, you cut the resistance in half, thus increasing the amount of power (and volume) to your speakers. This also creates more heat and could, in effect, shut your amplifier down. I would find out how the speakers are wired to determine the resistance of the load your amplifier is pushing.

check for earth

REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION AND YOU HAVE VERIFIED THAT THE POSITIVE AND ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALONG WITH THE REMOTE CONNECTIONS ARE 100%, THEN THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V

Check your speakers with an ohm meter. They should have some resistance but not totally shorted. Its prob the amp that got fried. Connect the amp to the battery with no speakers attached to it if the protection light still comes on then the amp is blown.

If the amp is blown you can send it to people on ebay and get it fixed pretty cheap. Good luck!

Sony generally drives their power light from a source that does not rely on the amplifier's switching power supply. This means that it's not a good indicator as to the health of the amplifier.

 

As long as you have B+ and remote voltage, it will light up. Since you've tested the speaker and the signal source, I think the amplifier is likely defective.