What is this white crustie stuff coming from my water lines, and hiow do I fix it?

might need a filter sounds like calcium

the valve has a shaft with a small pin, it can be turned with a needle nose plier.

Maybe older pipes with restriction in the line, especially at elbow or tee. Replace pipe?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

Maybe air in water line.
Often plumbers install air vent at highest point in water line, especially if home has well water or recirculation systems.
This will not solve problem if line has clog.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Repair-water-heater-valve.html#air

More resources:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Before calling service technician, open following link for error codes, Rheem chat, and possible manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/ErrorcodeTroubleshooting.pdf

Error codes are considered start-point for troubleshooting.
Error 11 is 'no ignition'
Without ignition, the burner will not turn on and heat water.

This problem can be caused by low gas pressure, air in gas line, defective tankless parts such as gas solenoid, loose electrical connections, improper electrical grounding, bad igniter, etc.
Problem can also be caused by combination of problems.
Good news is that error code shows 1 code and not multiple error codes that can indicate larger failure including PC board.

Each tankless instruction manual recommends yearly maintenance where technician will clean burner parts, bleed gas line, check gas pressure, check air and venting, etc.
Yearly service covers the cause for most common error codes.

here's what Bradford White lists....
Burner Will Not Ignite
REASON REMEDY Excess primary air Adjust air shutter to reduce air supply -- if supplied No gas Check with utility Dirt in main burner orifice Clean orifice -- check for source of dirt and eliminate Dirt in gas lines Notify utility -- install dirt trap in gas line Venturi clogged Clean -- check for source of trouble and correct Pilot line clogged Clean -- check for source of trouble and correct Main burner line clogged Clean -- check for source of trouble and correct Defective thermocouple lead Replace with new thermocouple lead Defective thermostat Replace Defective magnetic valve Replace entire control Thermostat set too low Turn temperature knob to desired temperature Heater installed in confined space Provide ventilation by use of louvers in wall or door time for a service tech.

It's true, nobody has 100% perfect answer for broken stuff.
Open following link for some autocirc resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

If I understand correctly, you removed supply line that connects autocirc pump to the hot water shut off valve.
Buy standard sink supply line at local box store or plumbing supply.
If memory serves, the supply line is 1/2" IP thread that connects to pump and 3/8" Compression fitting that connects to shut off.
You might try using thick-bodied white teflon joint compound to help seal the connection.
I use rectoseal on threaded connections and tubular drain connections to ensure forever seal:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/rectoseal-006-400.jpg

If brass part of pump is cracked, then autocir may be bad.
I have no idea how to permanently fix a broken brass water fitting, and would suggest replacement at that point.

Upvote the help.
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Hi,
The unit will not owrk unless you have 240V ACROSS the black and white wires...if you do not have that coming to the unit then you have a bad breaker...

heatman101

the white wire is the common. your red or black will hook up to the capacitor on the line voltage side of the circuit. should come into the the cap from a switch and out from cap to the motor

replace heater-have u ever drained heater?turn off water supply-drain heater .try this a couple times.if u replace heater put water filter on incoming water.