Dripping bath faucet circa 1985. Can't ID model but appears to have 2 screws holding front of casting to main body for disassembly . Faceplate is square in shape and black in color HELP!

hello . hope this helps . not easy but id doable , plan this when u have some time. how hard to do it yourself 1-10 id say 8
1st unplug the dryer .
remove 2 screws located in the rear top of the dryer , those screws are holding the top panel in place.
once you have removed those screws go back around to the frt of the dryer and with your hands on top of the panel push the top panel back and top panel should lift back and out.
next remove 2-3 screws holding the faceplate (display panel) to the frame , from the inside and unclip the wiring harness and set to the side. next remove 3-4 screws holding front panel to the cabinet of the dryer then reove front panel and set to the side now you can see the heating element enclose in a housing. remove a screw holding the housing and slide housing to you. disconnect the 2 connectors going to heating element. some revisions heaters slides out , some models you must remove a few screws holding element in place. Samsung does sell the heater assy witch comes all together for a few more dollars but less labor. re assemble

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. Remove the shower head from the pipe.
2. Clean the arm threads and wrap them with plumbers' joint tape.
3. Screw the head back on and hand-tighten it. Remove any excess compound or tape.
4. Test and retighten as needed.

Repair a shower head that leaks at the swivel:

1. Unscrew the shower-head body from the swivel-ball ring.
2. Find the O-ring or a similar seal inside. Replace it and screw the shower head back into place.
3. Turn off the water supply and open the faucet handle to relieve water pressure.
4. Carefully loosen the coupling nuts at the shutoff valves and at the base of the faucet.
5. Carefully remove the supply tubes.
6. Remove the locknuts that hold the faucet to the sink and lift the faucet out.
7. Clean the area where the old faucet sat.
8. As needed, install the new spray hose and supply tubes, if any, through their holes in the sink.
9. Set the rubber gasket that came with the faucet on the sink where it will be mounted. If no gasket is supplied, apply plumber's putty.
10. Set the faucet into position and center it.
11. From under the sink, attach the faucet locknuts to hold it to the sink.
12. Reinstall the supply lines, then turn them on and test the faucet. Turn it on carefully because the line and faucet have air in them.

These faucets can leak in three different places:

1. Internally at the valve seat
   You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
   
2. Around the handle
   If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.
   
   
3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
   The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.

Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.

remove the handle,, there should be a small hex head that you need to remove, once thats done, the flange right behind the handle can be unscrewed which holds up the faceplate ( some flanges cover screws to do this, others Just unscrew since your not sure of the model,, thats a good start to your problem

There may be 2 pins if under ring the collar has multiple holes.remove pins & unscrew ring... or it could be just stuck from age..

first step would be to change the rubber washer or o ring.

1. buy a proprietary washer kit from any DIY store.
2. Turn water off at isolating valve on teh pipe underneath the sink / bath or at the mains and or hot water tank as appropriate
3. Remove the top of the faucet (often there is a plastic circle at the top that prises off to reveal a screw - mixer taps may have a grub screw on the side)
4. Gently using a wrench to loosen the nut unscrew and remove the tap (faucet) barrell (middle bit)
5. Remove nut that holds washer in place and remove it or, in the case of an O ring - prise it off with a pin or needle.
6. Reassemble in reverse order - do not over-tighten.

If that doesn't stop the drip then the seat that the rubber washer / O ring seals against may be pitted or grooved. Either buy or hire a 'tap (faucet) seating tool.

1. Turn off water before opening the faucet
2. dismantle faucet as above
3. Find which of the sleeve adapters that comes with the seating tool is teh right one to screw into the top of the faucet body
4. select the grinding disc that is closest to the size of the seat and screw it onto the end of the seating tool
5. Screw the tool into place in the top of the faucet body - just finger tight.
6. Pressing down firmly with even pressure (but not too hard) on the top of the seating tool rotate the handle backwards and three or four complete rotations.
7. reassemble the faucet but DO NOT close the faucet off
8. slowly turn the water back on and allow it to flow hard for a few seconds to flush and debris out of the spout
9. Slowly close the faucet and check for leaks.
10. If necessary repeat re-seating process

I can fix this.
What is the last thing you did before this problem started?

It is a plastic cartridge the only way I have gotten them off is by turning until cartridge stem breaks it will not hurt faucet

unscrew a alen screw on the underside of the handle.
unscrew the cap that is holding the main body of the fixture.
pull up the fixture.
install in reverse order.

I soaked the connection between the handle and the valve body in a penetrating oil for several hours and eventually used more force than I hoped to use to remove the handle. Once the handle and end cap (part 09 209) were removed, I could see that the valve assembly (part 46 048) was loose which caused water to leak from the seals (part 46 209) between the valve assembly and faucet body. So I tighted the screws that hold the valve assembly to the faucet body and the leaked stopped.