Sears ks super camera.

First off, did you store it with batteries installed? If so, check the compartment to be sure there's no corrosion on the contacts. If there is, a pencil eraser works well to clean it off - I don't recommend using any sort of liquid since it can seep into the inside.

If that's not the issue, I can't remember if the ME Super is a mechanical or electronic shutter. Does the shutter function, without any batteries installed? If so, it's mechanical and will not depend on batteries, and therefore there is really no way to narrow down the cause of the issue beyond a good cleaning.

If on the other hand it will not function without batteries, but is with them, you know the power system is working, and the meter itself is the issue. It'll require a technican to open the camera and hunt down the exact cause. Cost for an estimate most places is around $35, if you don't have a local shop, KEH Camera which has a website is very good,

You can of course just use the camera without a working meter. Handheld meters can be picked up from $10-400 online (ebay and others), or you can guesstimate your exposures if using print film using the tried and tested "sunny-16" rule of exposure.

If the batterys are ok ,try rotating the speed control to X and the mirror will unlock from its upper position and the film will advance next time you try. Also the camera will not operate unless the leaver is moved away from its rest position, ie level with the camera body to its first movement area.

The camera is almost totally battery dependent for operation. There is just one mechanical shutter speed (the 125X setting). On any other setting the camera needs battery power to fire the shutter. To check the batteries set the camera to M or Auto and halfway press the shutter whilst looking through the viewfinder. With good batteries one of the LED lamps will illuminate between 2000 and 4s continuously. With weak batteries, the LED's will flicker on and off. With dead batteries no lights at all will appear.

Blank film means that the film has not been exposed. If you're sure that the film is advancing correctly then it means that the shutter is probably not operating. To test it, open the camera back and hold the camera up to a bright light with the lens cap removed. Set the lens aperture to it's widest setting (i.e. lowest number) and fire the shutter. You should see at least some light briefly appearing. If not, set the camera to 125X and try again. If no light then you have a faulty shutter assembly. A faulty shutter really needs professional attention, but due to age and a lack of spares you'll find it difficult to find a camera technician who is willing to help unless you pay up front (don't expect much of a refund, if any, if the camera proves to be unrepairable). In any case, the repairs will exceed the camera's value, but given that the same may be said of almost all 35mm SLR's now it's a question of how much do you personally value your camera?

If you do get a professional repair, then take the chance to get the foam light seals and mirror buffer replaced at the same time if it hasn't already been done. The original material will be well into decomposing by now and modern replacement materials don't suffer the same fate, so it's a modest one-off investment. An ME super in good condition is scarce and collectable even though it's not worth much, and far more importantly it's a great camera to use. Shoot on transparencies and scan the results and you can achieve results which are comparable to the best digital SLR's. Unlike a digital SLR, your camera should last much longer if it can be repaired.

If you can wind the film there is a problem with the shutter release. Take it to the shop to be checked and/or repaired. There's practically nothing you can do yourself (unless you're a camera mechanic).

Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.

Ok, well are you using a lens that is compatible with the auto setting? Are the batteries new and fresh in the camera? If you are not sure about the lens, then what you can do is too look at the inside of the box of the film you are using (Kodak) has a setting and exposure guide printed on the box. Try using the required exposure for the light that you are in... say for bright sun try f 16 at 1/125th of a second. That setting is for Kodak Royal Gold 100. That is right off the Kodak exposure guide, which you can find on the web here

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e41/index.shtml#exposure

I'd stick to Kodak film if possible. Try that out, and if no dice, then take the camera to a repair shop and have it looked over. good luck!

tcwat67,

the battery you mention is used for memory back up. when you change the main batteries this battery keeps the memory from needing reset. if the film is completely clear the film was not exposed to light. now if the film was transported and the meter and LED was working then the shutter was not opening, an easy check----- just take the lens off and fire the shutter a few times. the shutter may not fire if the film door is opened.
if the shutter is not opening it must be replaced, if you can find a camera repair shop that fixes vintage camera's any parts replaced will be good used.

Set your camera to B and release the shutter ( camera will work in this mode without batteries ) if you can wind ok and release shutter fine then all you need is new batteries. If however your camera is not working when set to B then it is either the shutter or the transport mechanism that need looking at. From experience ( have repaired 100s of Me-supers ) it is likely that your shutter needs attention : rubber components ( and foam rubber ) inside the shutter ( and the mirror box locking mechanism especially ) have perished and need replacing.