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Yes all Ultrex motors have built in transducers w/ water temp. Not compatible with hummingbird DI series But with a 2D GPS and SI Combo are compatible. Happy Fishing
Hey Joe,
Wow.. where to start.. there are so many things that will cause the issue you are describing.What type of electronics do you have? Does this happen at all speeds? Where is the transducer mounted? I need more info about when it stops reading.
1.Wrong setting on the unit
2 Bad transducer
3 Bad transducer mounting (either inside the hull or outside the hull.)
4. (In hull) Turbulence going under the boat (mine quits reading at about 55 mph @ half trim...the boat is lifting so much it causes air pockets so the transducer loses contact with the water)
5. (Outside hull) Turbulence around the bottom of the boat where the transducer meets the water.
Good luck,, when you get the info.. reply to me..
Hi, if this happens when stationery check the angle of the transducer, if it only happens when moving check the height of the transducer also. Regards Phil
If you reset it and while in the Initial Settings" Menu, you press menu, it should take you to the transducer setup screen. These menus allow for "Transducer Type" to be changed to your exact transducer. See the "Installation Manual", which is different than the "Operators Manual". Section 3 page 9 and 10. You may have to enter your units of measure (Knots vs MPH, etc), and then it will allow you to choose the transducer type. Hope this helps. John Barry, 847-746-0100, technicalmarine.com.
Check the transducer for any damage on the front part. Also make sure there isn't any damage on the bottom of the boat that is causing air bubbles to cross the face of the transducer. If it works at slow speeds there is definitely something causing air bubbles.
You can use a thru-hull transducer but a transom mount transducer will always interference with all of that water and alot of air bubbles moving under it at high speeds.
Ok in WIDE beam mode the cone extends out 45 degrees from the transducer. This covers a fair area, but is best used only in shallow waters as the beam may not have enough power to penetrate deeper waters effectively. 30ft should be fine for WIDE mode however. Using a bit of trigonometry, the beam would extend to a diameter of 60 feet from the center point of the transducer on the sea/river floor.
The beam is a direct beam... It is not a rotational beam from the transducer... i.e. it does not rotate like a radar beam but shoots downward in the cone arc constantly. Imagine a torch being turned on and off very rapidly... The light shoots straight out from the torch in its own cone shape. This is essentially what the transducer does when it shoots out a signal every millisecond or so.
The image you see on the screen is the result of the hole cone of signals, however, the strongest sonar returns occur near the center of the beam. Weaker returns are shown which are located towards the outer edges of the sonar cone where the signal power is less. So if a fish passes right on the edge of the beam, it will only show up as maybe 1 pixel on the sounder screen as it is a weak return on the edge of the sonar cone, whereas if that fish passes under the center of the beam, it will show a larger, more continuous or arched shaped return as the fish moves from the outside of the beam, through the center of the beam, and out to the other edge of the beam under the boat.
Regarding the flasher... I would advise not to use this. It does work by showing a continuous top and bottom reading which displays as constant flashes around the circle readout. Anything it picks up in the beam will show as flashes in between the top and bottom readings. Using the display is far better and with practice allows you to better identify fish and bottom structure readings. Flashers were earlier forms of sonar readouts. Some older folk still like them but I believe the normal display is better for finding and identifying fish and can show structure shape as well (the flasher mode really cannot).
I don't think your old fish finder is the LMS-332C GPS Receiver listed above in the description. You don't need the speed wheel for the fish finder to function just the transducer and transducer mount. You should mount that on the back of the boat towards the center but not too close to the motor and not too close to the side of the board. Don't let it hand below the level of the boat. That should keep it from getting hit by the trailer or dragging on the bottom. Try to make it as level as possible. The green and white wires may be for the speed wheel but i'd need a model number for clarification. Hope this helps.
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