SRAM Rival Rear Derailleur stays on the large rear gear when shifting from low to high gears. Sometimes the gears doesn't seem to change at all. I've already taken the bike to Performance bike shop twice within 1 week and they've adjusted the cable tension, but with the same results.

Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

I would lube everything and check the derailleur adjustments and cable tension. Some Campy chains are 'notchy/clunky' all the time. It's just the way they are. If the bike is low mileage most likely nothing major is wrong. Check the derailleur hanger too just in case you dropped the bike and bent it or something. The shifter 'G' springs will wear out before the derailleur. When the springs are worn, the shifts will be imprecise and will jump from gear to gear without shifting. One thing with Campy stuff...it DOES take awhile to break in. Unless the shifting is horribly off, I wouldn't worry about it - just ride it more - and see what happens. Mirage is a good product, I think inline with Shimano 105 stuff.

The only thing that allows the derailleur to shift to smaller cogs is the spring in the derailleur pulling the cable through all the housing. Therefore if your shifting is stubborn there is too much friction for the spring to overcome. Can be multiple reasons - rust/corrosion/contamination, kinked housing, poor housing ends, frayed cable, etc.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

The barrel is for fine tuning the indexing among the gears. Limit screws set the inner and outer physical swing of the derailleur.

A simple web search for "Sram 3.0 Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur adjustment" finds the manual.

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/RD_X0_X9_X7_5_4_3_QS_03.PDF

There IS a barrel adjuster.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur

Keeping a derailleur in a given gear is the shifter's job. If the shift lever/mechanism doesn't click and stay where you place it, something is wrong internally. It will need to be replaced if, for example, a SRAM MRX grip slid away and let the guts fall out.

Whatever your particular dilemma, look for a friendly local bicycle shop to see what they can do for you. I replaced the entire MRX shifter set for a friend using an upgraded and better designed Shimano setup for under $25 and my own labor. But then, I'm an old hand at working on bikes.

For DIY:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters

To use Sram Red Shifters with such a wide range rear cassette requires a Sram 10-speed MTB rear derailleur such as an XX or X.0, it will work without problems with your red shifter.

Because it is a road bike, i suggest leaving the road crankset and front derailleur in place. If you need low gearing I suggest a compact front crankset.

If you need to use a mtb crankset, attept to use the road front derailluer with it.

make sure nothing is bent and all sprockets are tight, try replacing cable and readjusting .

Oh, it is too bad you are in the Bronx. i'd have that fixed right quick. There are probably a pair of culprits at work here. One, your derailleurs no doubt need adjustment. Two, your rear derailleur hanger may be bent. These two can both cause the problem. Start with the rear hanger, because that will be easier to see.
Flip the bike onto the bars and saddle and take a look at your rear derailleur. Is it going straight up and down and is it aiming straight with your frame? If it isn't, you have found your problem. The hanger needs to be straightened. This can be done without any tools if you have a good eye. Hold the derailleur by the body and bend it to make the alignment good with the cassette. If this is NOT the problem (but i really think it is) then here is a walk-through on adjusting your derailleurs and hopefully this will solve it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

Front or rear? What is it doing?
Flip the bike over onto the handlebars and saddle and let us fix it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

check ur cable tension or the high and low adjustment screws on the derailer