Hello. I just bought a Pentax me super with 1.4 very cheap and in very good conditions. There's just one problem. The problem lies in the mount of the lens. I guess it's called aperture ring? When using the lens, it works well between 22~4, but when i try to reach 1.4 it gets very hard. And once i get to 1.4, i start moving the diafragm again but the exposer meter thinks its at 1.4, so if im at 22, de exposure meter is calculating at 1.4. I took off the lens and i saw that the lever was stuck, then i moved it and i tested it moving it manually. When start moving it goes all ok and soft, but after i moved it 1-2cm, it starts getting hard and then it gets locked in the end(f1.4) It only affects the exposure meter, when i shoot it closes-opens the diafragm correctly. I started to dismantle it because i thought i just had to remove the front screws, but i think i have to remove everything to reach the lever. So, i wanted to know what to do with this problem, should i lube the lever when i reach it?(with?), what cares should i have. Can it affect the exposure meter? Is a mechanic problem only? Thanks

Sorry, no. If it fit onto a Pentax camera then the lens has a Pentax mount. The Nikon (I assume you mean the D80 digital camera, or perhaps the N80 film camera) has a Nikon mount. Since the Nikon mount has a deeper flange distance than the Pentax mount, there are no adapters available to allow you to fit a Pentax-mount lens onto a Nikon camera.

True. You can get adapters at
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/

From what you've given, it sounds like the shutter is fried, or the mechanism jammed - or both. If you're wanting to keep the camera, and use it, you'll need to contact a repair technician and have them take a look at it for a repair estimate - assuming it's able to be repaired. Estimates will run you around $35 most places, if there's no shop near you KEH Camera which has a website is quite good.

The same thing just happened to my Nikon FE, and my estimates have been ranging anywhere from $105-145 to get it fixed. So, if you're willing to invest $100-150 (or more) in repairs...peraonally I'd pass and spend a little more on a tested and working model, good sources are KEH Camera, Adorama, and B&H Photo, all have websites, and all sell tested and guaranteed used equipment. IT'll cost you a little more up front, but long run repairs will cost far more on an unknown condition ebay special. Not to mention ebay prices often exceed what dealers charge for the same items in working condition.

You don't need an adapter ring, you simply need the correct lens. Like many aftermarket lenses, the Hanimex was made in a number of different versions to fit many different camera mounting systems.

Your camera accepts lenses with a Pentax K bayonet mounting, so the fix is to sell your lens (it's not worth very much though) and buy another which also shouldn't cost very much. You can even get them for free simply by asking on FreeCycle, it's where virtually all of my film camera equipment has come from.

It *might* be possible to get an adapter, but it depends entirely upon which mount the Hanimex currently has (you didn't say, and it's not always obvious just by looking at the lens), and very few can be adapted to a K mount. Those that do will lose automatic aperture coupling, making the lens and camera rather awkward to use, and the coupling will likely cost more than another similar lens in the same zoom range.

The button you refer to is not the shutter release, instead it's used to disconnect the film advance mechanism to enable a used film to be rewound and so is called the film rewind button. Unlike later models, it is just a mechanical release, it does not actually rewind the film.

Usually, it will pop back out again if you operate the film advance lever, but your camera is now around thirty years old so it's highly likely that the internal lubricant films have dried out and gummed up the works.

Repair is not really a DIY option unless you are prepared to risk failure and ruining your camera in return for gaining experience. Professional repairers can carry out a CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) but the cost is more than your camera is worth in purely financial terms. They will also usually recommend a one-off additional fee for replacing the foam light seals and mirror buffer if it's not been done already as the original foam was unstable and will have either turned to corrosive black goo or gone further and dried out and fallen away.

If your camera is in good condition, then a CLA and seal replacement will give you a camera which is a joy to use and which has a huge range of high quality lenses available for free or very cheaply. It can produce results which still beat most digital cameras, especially if you scan the film after it has been developed. On that basis, although repairs make no economic sense, they are a cheap way to get a superb functional and useful camera. before investing in such repairs though, make sure that the two buttons on top of the camera which alter the shutter speed are working correctly. If they aren't, then the camera needs a new flexi circuit board and it's very difficult to replace and spares are almost non-existent. In that condition, your camera is best sold as a spares donor to keep other ME Supers going. Millions were sold, and although still popular they are easy to find in good condition for free (via FreeCycle, or asking friends, colleagues and family) or very cheaply via online resources and traditional used camera shops.

If you repair it yourself, then you basically need to strip it down, clean out all the old gummed up lubricants and replace them with fresh lube of the correct type. It's more difficult than it sounds with an ME Super as there are also a lot of soldered joints, and so if you wish to gain repair experience it's not a good model to begin with. Online repair manuals are available for free from many sources, just enter "ME Super repair manual" in your search box.

Unfortunately, you won't find new spare parts as the model is so long out of production and the manufacturer ceased to exist many years ago. The difficulty is compounded by the fact that there is so little money in servicing and repairing 35mm SLR cameras that most repairers have ceased trading. If you do strike lucky, then unless the part is very cheap and you have the skills to fit it yourself it makes no economic sense at all as the body in excellent cosmetic and functional condition is only worth £5-£10 in the UK (where I am) and probably less in the USA.

The only source will be from a used donor model, but as there are plenty of KR-5's, KR-10's and similar Pentax K-mount bodies lying unused these days why bother paying for one? Almost every 35mm SLR and lens I've acquired in the last six years has been totally free via my local FreeCycle and Freegle groups, and most have been fully functional or just needing new batteries and light seals.

If you're really determined to save your camera then you maybe able to fabricate the spring yourself, but it's been so long since I took a KR series model apart that I don't recall the design so it may be an impractical suggestion.

Good luck, and sorry that this is not the answer you were hoping for.

You have a cheap Chinese copy of a Ricoh KR10-Super.

Assuming the shutter is actually broken (you didn't give details of symptoms) you cannot get spares for either of them. Throw it away (keep the lens) and buy any other Pentax K-Mount 35mm SLR camera, they're virtually worthless these days (except for the all-manual Pentax K-1000 and a few high-end models).

The near-worthless resale values means that you can pick them up from your local FreeCycle (also Freegle in the UK only) groups for nothing.

Pentax, Cosina, Ricoh, Chinon are the main brand names for K-Mount SLR's, but if you have a choice go for Pentax first, Ricoh second and only take the others if they're free as they're worth even less than a set of new batteries.

Hey judyrosebudd,
You should be able to use any flash that is not dedicated to another camera manufacturer. Even though the manufacturer lists this camera as a dedicated flash unit it still has the sync contact in the center of the hot shoe mount, which is all that is required to operate a all manual flash. This being said a dedicated flash should provide much more advanced options and simplicity of use. I hope this helps!

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

pull up on the round button on the left..

Copy and paste this in google, it may help.
nikon to pentax lens converter