How do i identify the negitive and positive terminals on my 18 volt batteries.

Bdisconnect positive terminal hold it on the negitive for 1to 3 mins while negitive is still connected to battery if that dont work ur speed sensor might be ur problem

Put a meter across the terminals the red is positive the black neutral if you get a positive voltage you have them the right way round if not you'll get a negative voltage.

use a multimeter set on volts the gauge will read with a - sign if the red and black leads or on the wrong terminals
so if you put the black terminal on one point and red on the other and a negative dash appears then the red wire is on the negative terminal
change them over and now there should be no negative sign which means that the red wire is on the positive terminal of the battery pack

normally from the negative terminal of the battery to either the chassis,panel part or directly onto the engine

Turn selector switch to volts D.C. and set range to next highest setting for the batteries you are wantimg to test. For example 25 volts if you are testing a 12 volt battery. Touch positive ,normally red probe on positive side of battery + sign,and negitive on - side, black probe. Hope this helps. Thanks

Check the negative terminal on your battery. Clean it up real good and reinstall. It sounds like you have a bad ground.

THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY. heres apicture to help you this is a titan battery, if you look on the battery you will see a + and a - all batteries have this, itsw located near the terminals, the + is the positive terminal and the - is the negitive terminal.i hope this helps.

Remove Negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Battery will have some type of tie down or block at base with a bolt you will have to remove. Remember how it goes back together. Remove battery.
Install new battery and tie down or block. Install Positive terminal then Negative terminal.
Remember to never touch both Positive and negative terminals with a metal object (ie..ratchet, wrench etc) this can cause injury and/or permanent damage to a new battery.

It sounds to me like the repair shop has connected the ignition wire ( the wire going to the + side of the coil ) to the wrong switch terminal. Take a volt ohm meter and connect the ground wire to the negitive ( - ) side of the battery and expose the ignition switch terminals. With the switch in the OFF position check for volatge on all the terminals. Make note of any terminals showing a 12 volt reading. That is probably the feed line from your battery. Turn the switch to the ON or RUN position and check for a terminal other than the one which gave you a reading before. note and mark this terminal. Locate the coil. There are 2 thin ( 18 guage ) wires attached to the coil. One goes to the distributer and the other goes to the ignition switch. Isolate that wire and reattach it to the connection on the ignition switch you marked earlier...
Good luck,
shag79

try this... get you 2 pair of small alligator clips... and make you a set of mini jumper cables... with me so far? now... take the wire set you just made... connect one to red... and one to black on battery... remembering to keep the wires seperated... use 2 pieces of cardboard and put one in the engine compartment on top of the engine... and clip the alligators to the other... one on each side, now... i want you to take the meter and connect the negitive alligator wire... to the black wire on the meter... o.k., turn the wipers on... take the red wire of the meter... and touch the wires on the terminals for the wiper motor... with me... now... put the meter on 20 volts dc... when you see 12.0 volts dc... that's the hot wire... i want you to take the positive alligater wire... and attach it to the same position on the motor, so... say it's the one on the bottom right... i want you to put the alligater wire there... so it matches... o.k., now... take the negitive meter wire out of the alligator wire and just let it hang for now, it's fine... it's a ground... it won't hurt anything... it's the red you have to worry about... o.k... i've done car audio comps. since i was 18... stay with me... please, now... we determined the hot wire... now take the black meter wire and touch the remaining contacts on the motor... if you see
-12.0 volts... it's another hot comming out... let it be... go to the next, if you find one with no voltage present... that's the ground for the motor, take the negitive wire of the alligator... hold the motor firmly... and touch that terminal... if the motor does nothing... go get another motor... if it jumps... go get another motor... yes... go get another motor if it jumps... now disconncect everything, well... let me explanin why that is... o.k... on the inside of the cover for the motor... there's a circuit board with a built in timer and 4 wires attached to the motor inside... o.k... positive... negitive... return... and a contact switch, now... positive and negitive are pretty explainatory... the return is funny... if you'll look at the switch... you'll see that there's a delay... well... that's the contact switch... when the motor is switched to delay... the timer sends a signal to the return witch starts the timing process, now... when the motor runs for that delayed time... there's a small cam gear inside which makes contact with a momentary switch... which is the contact switch... it goes in to the wiper switch... and back to the return... that resets the timer for the next time... with me, now... if for some odd ball off chance that the return and contact switch messed up... then the motor won't work... because it can't complete the circuit to the hot wire because the return and the contact switch are in series... there for... if one messes up... no running motor... so go get another motor... if that doesn't work... you have a bad wiper switch... good luck man