How do I remove the spanner not from the shaft on my kenmore 110.9228110

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026432500/0582/0153200?pathTaken=

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly

It's not an un-common problem and relatively easy to fix.


I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

No and NO

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24692300&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+20882990&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the section for the basket and tub assembly's

I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131

If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.

I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.

If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.

If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.

(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.

See the Sears parts site for washer 82372110.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82372110

The following may also help.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=146

you will need to remove your agitator. There should be a bolt on the top center of the agitator. you will need to remove the top of agitator or the cap to get to this bolt. once you loosen this bolt the hole agitator shold pull straight up.

Now you should see the long shaft in the center. Follow that shaft from the top down to the area where the shaft disappers and ther is a big round nut with 4 notches spaced evenly. This is call the spanner nut and you should use a spanner rench to tighten it with a small sleg or hammer ( a couple of good wacks should do. ) I know you probably do not have this tool, but at least you can verify that this is your problem. your spanner nut may be loose. this nut holds your inner tub down to the block. here is the break down

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following illustrated description of how to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=c1fdfdd9f5c92acf030438f5108905f5

You don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a 10: pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut and using a hammer to tap the handle works well.

Don't use a hammer directly on the drive block. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it with a hammer to remove the block.

When replacing the block make sure to align the tabs on the drive tube with the slots in the drive block before tightening the spanner nut.

@ bottom of basket there is to rubber plugs remove them then basket will come up without the drive bell

You will need 2 spanners ( the size vary's from differant models) and A screwdriver (generally phillips/star). Remove the screw that is inside the mouth of the chuck (it screws throough the back of the chuck and into the chuck shaft). Then get your 2 spanners - One goes on to the chuck and the other goes onto the shaft that the chuck attaches to. Turn the chuck anti Clockwise. This may be vary hard to do as somtime they rust and cease and you may need to brace the second spanner in a bench/table vise and use a hammer to gently tap away at the 1st spanner (the one holding the chuck). I find that spraying a litlle penatrating oil on the screw and the shaft an hour before attemting helps about 80% of the time.

hope this helps