SOURCE: will not run
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There may be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw, (sticks out from side of carb perpendicular to the carb throat).
If you are smoking that badly, loose the gas in the tank and start fresh with a 32/1 gas/oil mix. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE OIL to one gallon of gas. Do NOT use motor oil in the gas. It may continue to smoke for awhile, until it rids it'self of built up oil in the crankcase.
On the clutch, be sure the oil level in the gearbox is correct. This is where 10w40 motor oil goes. Check the clutch cable linkages. One at the clutch lever and possibly one at the motor. You should have about 1/4" play in the clutch handle before the lever starts actually pulling the clutch.
You can download a free PDF service manual from this site > >
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp I checked and your manual is on the list.
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SOURCE: cannot get bike into neutral with engine running but can find neutral fine with engine off
Well, there is still a chance that what you have is a stretched cable, not a thin clutch pack. I'd at least try rigging a spacer inline with the cable to see if more cable travel helps! Good luck, let me know where you go from here, and I'll follow this question. THanks, TT
SOURCE: Yamaha DT 125 1986 - High Revs when idling
There have an air leak between the carb and the cylinder and/or the head and cylinder. Old hard / cracked rubber fittings and O rings are usually the problem. When extra air gets into the system it leans the fuel mix and the high idle is the result. It also means the engine runs hotter. Also, cracked or broken reeds can be a source.
SOURCE: 110cc atv
There are three things required for combustion to occur: Fuel, compression, and a spark (at the right time). One, or more, of these is/are missing.
If the bike has been in storage for more than about a year, then you can bet that the carburetor is plugged up. It will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned.
Also, check the compression. if it has a four stroke engine, it should be capable of developing at least 135 psi of compression (throttle wide open, choke fully open). If the compression is low (and it is a four stroke engine), check the valve tappet clearances. Insufficient tappet clearance will cause low compression.
SOURCE: Roketa ATV-32 110cc Chinese ATV
Not that I have been able to find. The Chinese seem to be lacking in the information departments.
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