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Posted on Apr 12, 2017
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I have a Lifan 110cc mini atv that seems to need a clutch adjustment. At a high idle, the bike wants to move, so I have to apply the brakes to rev the engine. I have loosened the nut on the clutch side, but the stud doesn't seem to grip anything. I can turn the stud in either direction with no change of resistance to stud depth. The stud does have some in/out movement (1/4" or so), but I have no way of holding the stud in. So is that stud broken in side, or am i just missing something here??? PS. - I'm just guessing on the model in the drop down list, but it is a 110cc) Thanks for any help, Jason

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Scott Tx

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  • ATVs Expert 604 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2017
 Scott Tx
ATVs Expert
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Joined: Oct 11, 2008
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Sounds like you need to adjust the idle. it trying to move when the revs are high is what its supposed to do.

5 Related Answers

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 11, 2009

SOURCE: will not run

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There may be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw, (sticks out from side of carb perpendicular to the carb throat).


If you are smoking that badly, loose the gas in the tank and start fresh with a 32/1 gas/oil mix. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE OIL to one gallon of gas. Do NOT use motor oil in the gas. It may continue to smoke for awhile, until it rids it'self of built up oil in the crankcase.

On the clutch, be sure the oil level in the gearbox is correct. This is where 10w40 motor oil goes. Check the clutch cable linkages. One at the clutch lever and possibly one at the motor. You should have about 1/4" play in the clutch handle before the lever starts actually pulling the clutch.

You can download a free PDF service manual from this site > >
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp I checked and your manual is on the list.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

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Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: cannot get bike into neutral with engine running but can find neutral fine with engine off

Well, there is still a chance that what you have is a stretched cable, not a thin clutch pack. I'd at least try rigging a spacer inline with the cable to see if more cable travel helps! Good luck, let me know where you go from here, and I'll follow this question. THanks, TT

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 10, 2009

SOURCE: Yamaha DT 125 1986 - High Revs when idling

There have an air leak between the carb and the cylinder and/or the head and cylinder. Old hard / cracked rubber fittings and O rings are usually the problem. When extra air gets into the system it leans the fuel mix and the high idle is the result. It also means the engine runs hotter. Also, cracked or broken reeds can be a source.
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Anonymous

  • 301 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2009

SOURCE: 110cc atv

There are three things required for combustion to occur: Fuel, compression, and a spark (at the right time). One, or more, of these is/are missing.
If the bike has been in storage for more than about a year, then you can bet that the carburetor is plugged up. It will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned.
Also, check the compression. if it has a four stroke engine, it should be capable of developing at least 135 psi of compression (throttle wide open, choke fully open). If the compression is low (and it is a four stroke engine), check the valve tappet clearances. Insufficient tappet clearance will cause low compression.

Anonymous

  • 134 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 30, 2010

SOURCE: Roketa ATV-32 110cc Chinese ATV

Not that I have been able to find. The Chinese seem to be lacking in the information departments.

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2001 rancher 350trx atv. Runs good but no take off power. Give all the gas it hardly goes but when it gets up to speed its pretty fast. Why no take off power on 350cc honda

Could be a handful of things; 2 that you could check and let me know what the outcome is will narrow it down -

1. When was the last clutch replacement done on the bike if any? When your clutch starts to go - one of the symptoms is loss of power at take off.

Here's something you can do and I believe the 350 had a basket as well as a centrifugal clutch if you have an adjustment - there should be a nut on a stud on the front cover of the engine. Front Housing is what it's called. You can't miss the stud - it's on the engine cover that faces forward. That's your clutch adjustment. Hold the stud stationary and loosen the nut - should be a 10 or 12mm - once the nut is backed off - loosen the stud - then go counter clockwise slowly until you start to feel resistance - once you feel resistance - go forward about a 1/4 turn.

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2. - every 6 months or 500 hours they recommend you check and adjust your valves as needed. No one does it and the valves get out of whack. What could possibly be happening - your valves need adjustment - when you start the bike and until it's really warmed up performance will suffer. Once they bike warms up, heat makes everything expand - and if you're on that threshold - you'll run terrible at first/better as the valves warm up. You'll see this play out everytime you get on it and it hasn't been running in 20 hours.

Could be a carb issue as well, your idle and slow jets could be getting clogged up. Or your pilot screw's o-ring is shot and you're drawing too much air at idle/slow speeds and evens out under demand. Once that happens - you'll probably idle okay/nothing great - putting around will be about the same - but when you're on full throttle your carb pulls from a different jet. Each jet has a job - idle jet, slow jet, fast jet, - if you haven't cleaned the inside of that carb out in awhile - now is the time to do it - if nothing else, you'll have a clean carb and you'll have that knocked off your list.

These aren't the only causes by far - there's a flow chart attached/it's from an 04 TRX400 - Same rules apply. I didn't touch on electrical - but if you check on the things above/need any tips going through the flow chart, etc. feel free to shoot me a message. Glad to help if possible.


All The Best, Justin Lee, 17 South Industries, LLC
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