F6
code is an issue with the motor drive tachometer.
Most often this is caused
by poor connections at the machine control or motor controller. Locate
the main machine control by removing the top panel and the motor control
by removing the rear panel. Remove each connector, one at time, and
reinstall. If this does not work, you likely have a faulty control.
E1
means that the thermistor is open and needs to be replaced.
The connections can be loose but the most likely cause of an E1 error is
a bad thermistor.
If you're comfortable and confident in your
do-it-yourself skills and have access to a volt/ohm meter you can check
and replace this part yourself.
For replacement parts - head on
over to SearsPartsDirect.com - PartSelect.com - or RepairClinic.com and
enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
Hope helps.
I think you'd better go to the specialists with this question. For example, I got help right here at https://sdproappliancerepair.com/services/washer-repair/. There are real professionals working there. They serve all major brands and models. So I'm sure they can help you, too. Besides washing machines, they also repair other household appliances.
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I had the same problem.
I found two smoked parts on the MCU (motor control unit). See the picture. This board is trivial to replace (30 minutes) but costs $200 from Sears or Amazon. Part number is Whirlpool W10374126. There is a video athttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OfwNr0e...
It looks like a manufacturing defect. I'd like to know how many others had this exact same failure. Also note that the door unlocked by itself after about 10 minutes if you leave it plugged in (on my Maytag washer).
I think you'd better go to the specialists with this question. For example, I got help right here at https://sdproappliancerepair.com/services/washer-repair/. There are real professionals working there. They serve all major brands and models. So I'm sure they can help you, too. Besides washing machines, they also repair other household appliances.
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