1 foot lbs = 12 in lbs
2 foot lbs = 24 in lbs and so-on.....
Hope this helps you....
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Yes,every 12 inch pounds equals 1 foot pound
Yes 12 inch pounds is one foot pound. The problem is you need inch pound torque wrench .And even if you have one the torque is so small dose it matter that much its for valve covers and oil pans . You say you are working on a main pinion nut on a rear carrier the torque on that is big . Tighten the nut as tight as you can the value is at least 150 ft pounds for this nut it can't ever fall of when driveing and its a flare nut so you need two wrenches to correctly tighten it . Just tighten it as much as you can and you will be fine
thats what I did,First I tightened it till all the forward and back movement was gone then tightened as far as it would go to crush the collar but didnt check it with a tourque wrench,but I used the old shims on the carrier and added a thin one to remove all side to side movement, that stopped the clunking noise,now it makes a whineing noise when i back off the gas,thinking of maybe adding extra gear oil or moving the shime to the other side to see if that helps.
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Disassembly
Make sure that you have all the
parts and tools you will need. The extent of disassembly
depends on the job being done and the inspection
findings. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or a
jack and safe jack stands. Always make certain that the
vehicle is safely supported before working underneath.
Unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke. Remove the
differential cover or unbolt the third member. Let the
oil drain into a suitable container. Please recycle your
waste oil. Remove c-clip axles by removing the
differential cross pin bolt and cross pin shaft, pushing
the axles in and pulling the c-clips. Full float axles
are unbolted at the hubs. Punch both carrier caps with
identification marks so that you will be able to
re-install them on the same side and in the same
direction. Most carriers can be pried out of the housing
with a pry bar. Further disassembly depends on the job
being done. If you're changing the ring and pinion
or the pinion bearings, remove the pinion nut with an air
gun while holding the yoke, or use a long breaker bar and
brace the yoke (bolt it to a long board) so that it
can't move. Knock the pinion gear out to the rear
with a brass punch, taking care not to damage the
threads. Keep
track of the location and thickness of all of the
original shims.
Pinion bearings must be pressed off. Carrier bearings can
be pulled using a bearing puller. Internal parts (inside
the carrier) can be removed as necessary.
Inspect all bearings and races for
pitting or uneven wear. The inner carrier bearing races
should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier
races should have a snug fit in the housing. Inspect the
carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The
side gear bores inside the carrier should not have any
abnormal wear. All gear teeth (including the spider
gears) should be smooth but not excessively shiny.
Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and
for signs of uneven wear and overheating. Inspect
positraction clutches for scoring and wear. Inspect the
axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing
surfaces. Check for worn axle splines. All questionable
parts should be replace
Assembly
Differential Adjustments
The four essential differential
adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload,
backlash and carrier bearing preload. The tables at the
back can be used to write down shim combinations and
results.
Preparing Parts
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also, what is the correct torque for the 4 carrier bolts,i looked on line and it said 60lbs,i'm guessing thats foot lbs.
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