My fridgedaire window unit A/C and heat won't come on. I had replaced an outside light fixture a couple of weeks ago and had turned off the circuit breaker that affected this unit too. Now the unit won't come on AT ALL. I've unplugged the unit, then flipped breaker off then on again. Then plugged back in and hit "Reset" Button on the plug, then waited at least 3 min. as instructed, but still no power. The light on the plug doesn't even come on when I hit the test button. Could it be a faulty cord? Or a faulty outlet?

Try setting the thermostat at a normal heat setting. By raising the temperature too high the unit thinks that the heat pump won't be effective and go into strip heat mode.

Good Afternoon bibliophilel, based on the symptoms you are describing, may I suggest resetting the refrigerator. This can be done by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait roughly ten minutes and then turn the unit back on. If the issue persists, then more than likely the light socket and/or the door switch that triggers the bulb and alarm are faulty. In this regard, I would suggest contacting an Authorized Service Technician that will be able to assist you in the exact diagnosis of the appliance and repair.

ck for electrical short draining the bat. recheck batt could be defect. ck all electrical devices in the car to be sure they' re working. A alarm system is a big drain (if u have one)

Unplugging the unit lets the tiny computer like microprocessor reset--means problem is in the brain of the unit or its power circuit.

wait a few day then turn it on if it does not come on ask someone to check it out

If you are lighting the pilot corectly and waiting for the thermo couple to warm up and then setting it to on, then the thermo couple is probably bad. Good luck!

just look for the blackened/burned pin on the rear light plastic connector and sand it down to re-establish a good electrical connection and save yourself $800 big ones on replacing the multiswitch.

CHECK TURN SIGNAL FUSE.IT COULD BE BLOWED OR YOU HAVE FAULTY TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.BECAUSE BACK LIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS SHARE SAME CIRCUIT WITH TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.

Check the thermal fuse and thermostats again to eliminate them as suspects. Both should be zero ohms at room temperature. If you eyed the entire duct system from lint filter to outside of the house for lint, then these are probably OK.

One thing that will shut down a dryer: a defective door switch. If you turn the timer on with the door shut and can hear or see it progressing (running) then the door switch is OK.

If your door switch is operating marginally, the heat can expand the body of the switch and open the circuit (and shut the dryer off until it cools). Check the switch with an ohmmeter with the dryer disconnected from power.

A loose spade terminal on this switch (or anywhere else) can do this too.

Also, a misaligned door or defective door clasp might do this after heating up.

Keep thinking 'heat expands' and you might find it.

The only other thing left is a defective timer.

Good luck from Detroit, MI.

This is typical of a iron, it is cheaper to replace than to repair. The heating element is broken.