Channel problems i was trying to run my sub out channel 3&4 and i hooked up my rc inputs in the channel 3&4 and put my sub bidged out of channel 3 & 4 and it just dont put out sound

re-check the speaker connections are correct and use a matching ohm test speaker on the other connections for a sound check. Sounds like hi frequency output into the sub amp. Sub-woofers are a mono signal!!

Hi, you have two choices for hooking up a sub to the 4160 amp. You can either connect your sub to one of the two available channels, or if the amp supports it, you can bridge channels 3 and 4 to get increased power to your sub. You have a 4 channel amp - channel 1 and 2 go to your 3-way speakers up front, which leaves channel 3 and 4 available for your sub.

Sure. Specs are listed below. I think it's designed for regular 2-channel input, isn't it?



Front Channels: 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

Rear Channels: 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V)

Subwoofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

THD at Rated Power: <0.03% @ 4 ohm (F&R), <0.05% @ 4 ohm (Sub)

S/N Ratio (F&R): >108.5 dB below rated power S/N Ratio (Sub): >95 dB below rated power

Frequency Response (front and rear): 5 Hz-30 KHz (+0, -1dB)

Frequency Response (sub channel): 5 Hz-500 Hz (+0, -1dB)

Damping Factor (front and rear): >200 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz

Damping Factor (sub channel): >500 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz

Input Range: switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS

Differential-Balanced Input Topology: (3 pairs of inputs)

Front Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope BP or HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Rear Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Sub Crossover: fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope LP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Preamp Output: 2-channel (full-range or LP)

Bass EQ: Variable boost up to 15db

Infrasonic Filter: defeatable 24dB/octave at 30 Hz

Left minus Right Ambience Circuit: ambient effect for rear channels

Front and rear speaker output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire

Dual mono subwoofer output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire

+12V and Ground connections: accept up to 4ga. Wire

Dimensions: 19.7"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H

run two 6x8s on each of the front channels of the amp. then depending on the sub you can bridge it on the rear channels.only if its a single four ohm. if its a dual 2 ohm sub run each coil on each channel. 1 coil-1channel. the other coil-the other channel. amp should run fine may run a little hot since it will be doing all it can do at a safe ohm load. just make sure it is mounted in a well vented area. should be safe.

Im kind of confused with what exactly your asking. Are you trying to run 3 subs off of an amp? If so, the RCA's should go to the front of the amp, and if your plugging 3 subs in to it, you need to have a 3+ channel amp. There is a way to hook it up differently though. I have 4 12" Hifonics subs running off a 2400 watt Nitro-BMW-486 amp. I just have two subs running to each of the two channels.

The way the EQ is hooked up is correct.

You set the factory radio to a set level, then use the volume on the EQ for everyday adjustments.

I believe your problem lies in the amplification.
Your BOSE amplifier was made to run a 4 channel 8ohm stero load.
Low powered - high in sound quality.

You have swapped the factory 8 ohm speakers (15W) for 4 ohm power hungry ones.
Now the amplifier is working harder to produce the same output.

You would be best served eliminating the factory amplifier and getting 1 good 4 or 5 channel amp to power your speakers.

a 4 channel amplifier could be used stereo (left and right) on channels 1 and 2, (2ohm stereo load)
and bridge channels 3 and 4 for your subwoofer.

For a true surround sound - a 5 channel amplifier could run each speaker individually, and the 5th channel is reserved for the subwoofer.

a small dedicated 75wx4 channel amplifier with built in crossover, and level gain controls - would blow your socks off. It is 200x better than the factory 12Watt amplifier. Your ears will love you for it :D

If you need more help - just let me know.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

My information shows the XM-1652Z as being a 2-channel amp. It will not be stable below 4-ohms in bridged mode. For best power, your subs will need to be 2-ohms with all 3 wired in series. This will present a 6-ohm load to the amp. After wiring the subs in series, connect the positive speaker wire to one channel (+) and the negative speaker wire to the other channel (-). For the 1652Z no other wiring is necessary. For subs you will also want to set the LPF (80Hz) switch to the "ON" position (to the right).

Keep in mind that the rated output is only 400 watts RMS at 4-ohms in bridged mode. That's kinda wimpy for 3 subs. You would probably obtain better results from two 2-ohm subs, each connected to a separate channel. That way each sub would be getting 200 watts RMS, still low but there's lots of good subs that will sound pretty loud with 150-200 watts

Hey Ryan I have the same thing dude has and my sound only works when I have my subs are hooked up. Without my subs hooked up I have no sound at all. Do you know how I can fix this?

You can't bridge 4 channels into one channel. You can bridge the amp to two channels and drive one dual voice coil speaker.

 

The owner's manual is available from Jensen.

Well, as I know, your Cerwin Vega subwoofer is designed for use with stereo systems. Therefore, it has only 2 channels for input, and 2 channels for output as well. However, you can try this out; the first thing I suggest is that you hook up your main front channels through the subwoofer. All you have to do is to connect the subwoofer input to the front channel output on the amp, then hook up your front speakers to the satellite output on the subwoofer. As long as you make sure that system is working on 8 ohms, I believe this can activate the subwoofer.