I've had the Tonebone Plexitube since January of this year, but have only played through it a couple of times. I recently took it out to really experiment with it and get to know the pedal. Right away I noticed this insanely loud hissing when I took it off true bypass onto channel 1 and 2. I took the pedal out of the chain to isolate it, and the hissing seeped through the true bypass a bit. I messed with the guitar and amp's tone knobs, and when the treble was at 0 it took the edge off the noise, but was still present. Even when I did fiddle with my guitar's tone knob it picked up the sound of the pot rotating (I tried this on multiple guitars and amps). With the guitar volume at 0 the hissing was still present. I took it to my teacher and he attempted to switch the tube out for another, but Radial makes it a real ***** to get at the tube so we didn't bother. Could you please help me fix this problem? - Luke

Most likely cause for this is an intermittent potentiometer. Check to see if any of them are mechanically loose as this is a sign that they have been damaged and could have cracked the wiper surface inside the pot causing this problem. Alternatively, any switch that controls any gain setting could also be intermittent or dirty. Gain of the amplifier should be stable, but is controlled by the feedback and signal injection at the pots so that is where to look first. Good luck, as intermittent problems are tricky, but sometimes better than no function at all which can be more costly.

Hi,
I don't know if you still need this information but here's a button by button guide that I've done. I've got an E-70 myself. Now if I can only find that **** internal battery that stores all my sounds I'd be laughing.

Press Menu (the button on the right underneath the light-up display), make sure the arrows are highlighted around the 'Param' setting and if not, turn the jog dial anti-clockwise to get the arrows there. Press Enter and then on next screen press Enter 5 times to see the Transpose display flash and use the jog dial to change from -11 semitones to +11 semitones and press Enter or backup to come out of this screen. Now, whenever you press the Transpose button (the grey button on the bottom right-5th button in from the right), the keyboard will automatically change. You can store different sounds in different keys, so for example I used to play Knocking On Heaven's Door and had this lovely riff when I played in G but it didn't sound the same if I played it in A so I transposed it to play and performed live in A while playing it in G. As long as you what presets you use for different songs, it's quite easy to get used to.

If you haven't had a response or sorted it out yet, I hope this helps.

Kind regards

Steve

It may be the line current at those venues.

If you have a lightweight switchmode supply, you can try adding some ferrites to the power cord from the wall. but you almost need to switch to an older style heavy transformer supply for reliablity. It is my guess there is a great deal of noise on the supply current at those vehues you have had problems at. That noise does not play well with switchmode.

NEVER CONNECT PEDALS THROUGH THE EFFECT LOOP OF AN AMP. They are NOT design to work at the same signal levels !!! ONLY use effect units that are design to be used in amp effects in the amp effects loop/

One of the two contacts for that key is not working. This could be dirty or damaged contact. They use a conductive rubber pills that the key presses against circuit board traces. One contact makes before the other and this is how velocity is sensed. Unless you are adept at this repair, I would recommend you take it in for repair. Chances are any part cost is negligible... mostly labor to open and access the contacts for cleaning. Clean ONLY with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q TIps... VERY GENTLY.

Sorry, but Roland uses the opposite sense switch. They use normally closed where Casio requires normally open contacts. SOMETIMES one can rewire the pedal internally, but you have to be mechanically and electrically inclined to do that.

the fuse hopefully took the brunt of the higher voltage,, replacing the fuse should do the trick, but yes you need the voltage transformer for sure they sell them pretty cheap here, Just be sure and look for the wattage in each one http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog6_0.html

This has the earmarks of battery problem... Supposedly this uses a 9 volt battery... You CANNOT use rechargeable batteries in these as the actual voltage of the rechargeable is lower than alkaline and they will fail quickly and as they age you may get only seconds of operation. When they go off the battery will recover a bit and even look like it comes on again. Do NOT count on the battery LED to give actual answer. When you turn on the unit, read the battery voltage under load with a meter. It should be at least 8.5 volts. NEXT possibility: A chronic problem with body packs is the battery contacts. There is a fine line between having good contact and being able to get batteries out. I have seen where people stuff paper in to increase tension on the contacts.

Hi guy. Check the wall power supply first and the power supply socket. If that are ok, open the box and check the regulator IC (7812 in TO220 package). I think that the circuit is not powered someway. Good lucky....

I have the same problem.The rubber panel that is used for touch sensitivity (under the keys) inside the case wears down in time. You can split it and shift parts but you eventually will have to replace it. This rubber panel is very hard to get. Good luck.