LG LRTP1231W Top Freezer Refrigerator Logo
Posted on May 17, 2011
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Freezer is getting very cold with frost on product while fridge is not cold enough. Have moved controls around some with freezer on warmer settings and fridge on colder. This has helped fridge some but freezer still has same problem.

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  • Master 1,156 Answers
  • Posted on May 17, 2011
Anonymous
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Joined: May 05, 2011
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Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hope this helpout......

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Freezer cools well, refirgator is warm, the vent that brings air from frezer to refrigator has no air movement, ice inside , i broke some ice with knife shoul di spray hot water to get rid rest , I did...

This answer will be somewhat long, but in order to understand the "fix" for your problem you need to understand how a refrigerator-freezer works.

Most units have ONE COMPRESSOR which usually cools the FREEZER. Then, to cool the fridge area, there is a DUCT or ducts between the freezer and the fridge area to move some small amount of very cold freezer air into the fridge section. In the old days this occurred by convection, but most newer units have a small fan in the duct to more dependably move the air.

The run time of the compressor, and thus the temperature of the freezer is usually controlled by a THERMOSTAT [usually with numbers on the dial]. A second control [usually with the letters A, B, C, and sometimes even D] operates either a DAMPER in the duct, or controls the duration of fan operation in order to control the temperature in the fridge section.

Under certain conditions of higher humidity, FROST [fine ice crystals] can build up in the duct, and on the fan if there is one, reducing or totally blocking the cold air flow from the freezer to the fridge section.

From your description of the freezer working well, but the fridge section being "warm" suggests that blockage of the duct is what has happened. However, there are a couple of other possibilities:

1. You inadvertantly moved the fridge control to a warmer setting,
2. You inadvertantly placed something in the freezer and/or fridge which BLOCKED the entrance or exit of the duct,

IF one of the above are the cause, a "manual" defrost of a few hours with the freezer and fridge doors open to allow warmer air in should melt out any frost/ice from the duct and allow the system to work properly. Depending on the severity of the frost/ice buildup, it could take a couple of days to fully melt all the frost/ice.

During the manual defrost ALL frozen and perishable foods should be temporary stored in an ice chest or cooler of some kind.

One more thing, in addition to heavy humidity, frost/ice buildup can also be caused by a defective automatic DEFROST TIMER. IF the system does not do its regular defrost cycle [usually an hour or two once in each 24 hours], then frost/ice buildup can occur even with "normal" humidities.

So, once you have the system back in operation, watch for the normal cycling of the defrost program, and if the problem continues, contact a qualified refrigeration repair technician to repair or replace the defrost TIMER.
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It's possible the unit is not working correctly as it expects the air temperature to be around 18 degrees centigrade. If too cold, they can go into a defrost cycle.

If your food is not cold enough - but your room is frozen - can you pack your freezer items in snow? Alternatively, move the unit to a warmer area.

Sounds strange - but modern units don't work well in the cold !
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If designed as most combination units, one of the two controls influences the temperature directly, the other only determines how much of the generated cold air is allowed to enter the other compartment. The typical arrangement is that setting the freezer temperature determines how often often the compressor runs; the other diverts a portion of the cold air into the refrigerator side.
Using the common thermometer for cold temperatures (~$5 US), adjust the freezer temperature for 0 to -5 degrees F (the often recommended temp.), then the other control for the desired refrigerator temperature, suggested as 35-45 F. This is the most common practice.
If you cannot balance them the way you want, reverse the procedure, setting for refrigerator temp., then freezer.
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too much ice bulid up will stop enough cold air being blown into the fridge.Try turning it off letting all ice melt then turn it back on again and set thermostat at a lower temp.There may be ice you can't see.
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Fridge freezer double door top fridge bottom freezer

Things to check
Check freezer...
for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing,
Check condenser...
To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing by compressor & IF it is running
Check Recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage,

CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting,
YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL
To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING
Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side
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If your getting frost build up in the freezer..u said u tried defrosting... is frost building up it freezer?

IF so you have a defrost problem...bad  heaters, defrost themostat or defrost timmer, if ya need more help post more info

Things to check
Check freezer...
for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing,
Check condenser...  
To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing by compressor & IF it is running
Check Recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage,

CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting,
YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL
To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING
Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side
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Check freezer... for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing, Check condenser... To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing by compressor, Check Recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage, CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting, YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side.
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Check freezer... for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing, Check condenser... To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing (by compressor), Check recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage, CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting, YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side
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