Where is the power input cable on my x6 rockford fosgate amp

Everry amp is different in the type of screws they use end the size of them, If you have any screws around, They are a fine tread screw, Just keep on trying untill you find some that will work,

RMS at 4 ohms: 425x1
RMS at 2 ohms: 850x1

Here is the link to the specs if you need other info:
http://www.epinions.com/pr-Rockford_Fosgate_Type_RF_X6_Car_Audio_Amplifier/display_~full_specs

Check you inputs to verify you have a signal coming in, if signal then check outputs try a speaker that you know is working and plug it in if that speaker plays then the subs/ or speaker wiring is bad, if it doens't play then you probably have a blown output transistor on the amp or possibly a terminal ground/positive has come loose on the inside..

Assuming your P3 has a single voice coil (it will have only one place to plug your wires into) you will be running this in a bridged mode. You will take the left (+) coming off the amp and plug it into the (+) on the P3. Then take the right (+) from the amp and plug it into the (-) on the P3. This will make your amp push 500 watts to your sub. Now on the amp make sure your adjustments are as follows: Signal input switch is set to unbalanced for RCA input. Left Phase switch is set to 0. Right phase switch is set to 180. your X-card should be set to low pass. And adjust the gain for both R and L equally so it has equal power from both channels.

check RCA cables.

replace the inputs on ur amp

You should verify some other way (with a multimeter or another amp/device) that your 12V is working at the amp. Then to troubleshoot the Remote wire, take a short lead of scrap wire and run it from the 12V power input of the amp over to the Remote input like a jumper. If the amp still doesn't power up, then look for and check the fuse on the amp. If there's good power at the amp, the remote input has good power, and the amp doesn't turn on, and the fuse isn't blown, then the amp is probably toast. Good luck!

try hooking the remote wire to a rem wire on the back of stereo. post and let me know results

Hello desperate2le,

Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.

All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.

Hope this helps.

In most of Rockford's amps, the low voltage detection is connected to the remote input. If the remote voltage is too low and they use the same circuit on this amp, it could trigger the protection circuit.

 

Disconnect the head unit's remote from the amp. Use a fuse holder with a 3 amp fuse to jump between the B+ connection and the remote terminal of the amp. If the amp powers up, the head unit's remote output may be defective. If it blows the fuse, the remote input or part of the power supply is damaged. Do not try it with an unfused jumper.