Inside the freezer of my General Eletric GSH25JSTA SS, I seem to have a small trickle of water running down the back of the freezer. This trickle of water freezes at the bottom of the freezer. The water seems to melt and leak onto the floor. It's not a huge leak, but it'll get a towel somewhat wet/damp. I turned the freezer off overnight and wiped up the melted water. However, when I turned the freezer back on, the trickle of water started again and froze on the bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

It would be wise to check the water drain of any auto-defrost function is clear so the fidge remains dry inside.

During the defrost cycle water droplets form on the back panel and trickle down to a funnel near the bottom where a hose drains the water into a tray attached to the top of the motor unit where it will evaporate.
This is why the instruction manual usually states nothing should be allowed to touch or rest against the back to impede or divert the water flow. The funnel or the tube can easily become blocked resulting in a damp environment and bacterial growth.

Wiping all surfaces with Milton's sterilising fluid or similar is what I recommend but plastic is an organic substance and the odour can penetrate the surface of the plastic requiring the process to be repeated periodically.
A deodouriser will help and there are many types on the market including one made from stainless steel which must be placed in a small tray of water to work. No one knows how or why they work but I have heard anecdotal evidence they work very well though I haven't tried one myself.

probably dust, hair, lint plugging the drains.
you have pets?
have it serviced by a professional, or you can disassemble all the drain lines and conduit and pans and clean yourself. good luck
call a PROFESSIONAL

OK usally this indicates that either your defrost drain leading down from the freezer has a blockage of ice, gunk or both. Unplug refrigerator and remove the rear panel inside freezer and on the back wall of many refrigerators.
I noticed you did not post your model number so I have to assume your freezer is on top above the fresh food section? If the water is trickling down the wall inside the fresh food compartment it is possible you have a small bowl that catches the water coming from the freezer and the drain line then turns and leads out of the fresh food section and down the back of your refrigerator. If yours does have that catch bowl this is the likely place for the drain line to get clogged. Here is an example Click here=> Whirlpool Leak Photo taken by TechnicianBrianAnd in this photo are several parts listed in photo group #1 were it is most likely running down the wall=> MagicChef CTB1921AR fresh food section. If you still have questions please ask and rate me if I was able to explain this well enough. Every refrigerator is made different so these are examples only. We need to see if the water is overflowing the condensate drain tray or if the blockage is in the turn the drain leads down back of your refrigerator. Much more on this page=> Leaking Refrigerators! This is a common tip so I will be placing this post and add as we go new ideas listed in Sea Breeze Tips Section. If you run into any problems along the way of repair please let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

If the quick movie on You-Tube is not below click HERE

you have a defrost problem,bad defrost heater,thermostat,sensor or computer board,your gonna need a meter to see what's bad,go here
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GSH25JSTASS/0432/0165000/G0604755/00003?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=GSH25JSTASSthis is the parts that are behind the back inside freezer wall,look at 230,240 and 243 and on the outside back of the machine is the computer board part number wr55x10942,hopefully it won't be the board,shut down the machine and remove the back inside wall of the freezer,then go in the back and remove the cover of the mother board,you'll see a metal panel it's behind it,look at the bottom of the board,you'll see a gray plug with three connectors that it's plugged onto,you'll need a jumper wire with alligator clips on the ends,clip it on j9 and j11,this is the middle and the metal to the right in the gray plug,this will turn on the heater in the freezer,,plug the machine back in,if the heater comes on you have a bad board and change out the sensor if it has the black ring on it,no matter what you have to change the sensor if it has black on it,if it doesn't come on then check the thermostat and the heater,unplug the heater and check it for continuity,also look at the heater,if it looks black inside the glass change it out and change out the t-stat,if the heater is good check the t-stat,part number 240 in the picture,also you can cut the two wires going to the t-stat,connect them so you bypass the t-stat and jump out the board again,if the heater comes on the t-stat is bad and this is the most common part that goes,also if there's a white plastic ring around the top of the t-stat and it's popped up on one side it's bad,water got inside of it,froze up and pops the top off.here's a picture of the board and how to jump it out
http://www.flickr.com/photos/zenzoidman/4482598198/sizes/o/in/photostream/

j9 and j11.and here's another picture that might help you http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/11/04/how-to-test-the-defrost-system-in-a-ge-arctica-or-profile-refrigerator/
you can leave the heater on to help you melt out the ice and with a hair dryer melt out all the ice on the coil,also if you need time to get the parts and stuff if you remove the back inside wall of the freezer and melt out all the ice on the coil your fridge will run for 10 to 12 days and then it will freeze up again but your food will stay good and then hopefully you can have what you need to fix it.hope this helps and good luck.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

lol it's broke. mine does same thing. ice hanging down now.

I have had the same problem with the same model several times in the past. It also happens to me within a few days of replacing the water filter.

In my case, I believe the water line in the freezer door has become frozen. I usually let the freezer thaw for a couple of hours, and my water works again.

I have had constant problems with this model. I would recommend trying to sell your fridge now while it's still running, before the real headaches begin (mine has died 2x in the past six months, and I have not even had it for 2.5 years yet). No more GE's in my house.

turn the freezer side to zero fridge side will zero also . click for water it should work . just worked for me no water for 1month replaced the filter and everything.

Service:
http://mrappliance2.reachlocal.net/land/
http://www.sears.com/sr/service_order/so_productinfo.jsp
DIY repear and diagnosic help:
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/freezer/freezer.php
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
http://www.fridgedoctor.com/

Silicone bath/shower sealant should work, the one that smells like vinegar. Also known as RTV.

 

Just make sure the area is dry, clean and free of old caulk.

It'll need to be at room temperature to set properly for a few hours.

 

I have used this sealant on things before that went as low as

-50C. Preperation is the key though.