How to wire a 2 wire gas funace only to this thermostat

The heat will normally use a low speed on the fan, & the AC along with the fan switch on the thermostat will use the high speed. The thermostat turns that high speed on when there is a call for cooling & is the same switch if you were to manually turn the fan from auto to on. Try turning the fan on @ the thermostat. If it works, then replace your thermostat. If it doesn't, it could be a bad fan speed, a bad fan relay on a control board or external relay, or a loose or broken green thermostat wire.

If there is no glow at the igniter the it could be faulty igniter or its the pressure switch try jumping the pressure switch out and see if it lights

The first thing I would do is remove cover panels on furnace and locate terminal block that thermostat wiring goes to and check for screws being tight enough. Look most closly at the ones marked c,g,and y. Hope this helps. Thank you.

Make sure you have gas on. Tap on the valve as the ignitor glows. The valve may just be stuck. If not- I'm thinking the funace needs a new ignition module.

None of these.

Coming off the humidifier you wil find 2-red and 2-yellow (through a plug).

The red supplies 24 volts and is wired to the "hot" and "common" terrminals of an electronic humidstat. (They are NOT used if using a mechanical humidstat.)

The 2-yellow are wired to the "HUM" terminals of the humidstat (either mechanical or electronic).

If you are using a sail switch or current sensing relay, it cuts into one of the yellow wires. (Yellow from humidifier to to humidstat. Then from other terminal of humidistat yellow runs to to relay (or sail switch). Then from other terminal of relay (or sail switch) yellow back to humidifier.

There is small cap on top of valve that is slotted for screwdriver. Take off cap small spring underneath. Hook op manomiter to valve. Small allen screw on outlet off valve unscrew puy your manomiter fitting there. Turn on funace and turrn adjustment screw with small allen wrench or small screwdriver. Very easy ..Rus

Then you must have a low voltage problem. Do you have 110/220v going to transformer and do you have
24 volts coming out. If the answer is yes, try to turn
indoor fan to the on position if it comes on, then it
sounds like you have a connection problem with thermostat or control board.

If fan wont come on, their could be a little fuse located in the circuit board on indoor unit and it could
have blown. If thats the case and it blows when you replace the fuse again. Disconnect the thermostat wires, put new fuse in. If it does not blow then you have a short in your thermostat wires

My name is Tim Burke from White-Rodgers. If you hear the "click" the thermostat is calling. It would appear that their is a wiring issue to the funace. Please contact our customer service toll free hot line and they will be happy to walk you thru it and assist you. 877-978-7828

Regards,
Tim
[email protected]
Tim

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

On most Honeywell Digital T-stats there is a 5 min delay built in