Cant get the recoil handle to pull out i have to hold the blade control handle in order ot pull the starter coil, but it wont pull out more than a few inches.

Remove the recoil pull starter rope surrounded by 3 or 4 hold down screws depending on your make then you wind up the coil starter pulley about 5 turns counter clockwise hold it there you feel a tension as you go abouts turning. Which is what you want to do. Once you reach 5 turns hold it do not let go,with one hand and with the other hand take a vise grips and clamp down the rope so that you don't lose your tension install your pull cord handle,take out the vise grips , then you release your cord pull starter rope..

This is a labor intensive procedure to just get to the recoil/starter unit so it can be inspected for the problem. Here is how you get there.

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-20 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed.

I will give you instructions for fixing the recoil unit on a trimmer. The blower instructions are the same, just the configuration is different. The key is to maybe have someone help you.
OK...with the starter/recoil unit OFF the machine, with no rope in it, and no tension on it.....grasp the little nylon hub and turn it (clockwise is I recall) round and round 6-7 times until you feel the recoil spring get nice and tight...DO NOT LET GO OF IT!...hold it in place and then JAM the starter/recoil unit in place (still tight) inside it's housing by either clamping it with a tool like vise grips or by sticking a screwdriver thru it and thru the vents in the cover. If you have ANOTHER person to help you...one of you hold it in place....and make sure it is lined up to where you can NOW insert the new lenth of pull rope thru the housing hole and into the hole in the pulley.. Always use new rope....Feed the end thru the hole in the recoil unit and tie it off, by wrapping it around itself outside the nylon hub and then screw the little self-tapping set screw back in holding the rope down. OK...then feed the opposite end into the hole in the front engine cover and attatch the T pull handle....Now mind you, you are still jammming or holding the recoil in place against the spring!...Now, unclamp it or unjam it and slowly let the recoil pull the NEW rope you just installed back onto the pulley. Make sure it is fastened well on top of the pulley around the nylon hub and also fastened well onto the T pull handle. That is it. Then reconnect your wires, put your throttle cable back thru the engine cover and reinstall the Torx screws in the cover...and you are done

The starter rope normally rewinds automatically when the recoil unit is functioning properly. If the pull rope has stayed out, disassembly will be required. Here are instructions for that problem. The recoil spring can break and is replaceable, but the nylon hub in the starter recoil unit is usually the problem or the rope has broken and jammed inside.
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Here are more details for servicing the starter/recoil unit....With the starter/recoil unit OFF the machine, with no rope in it, and no tension on it.....grasp the little nylon hub and turn it (clockwise is I recall) round and round 6-7 times until you feel the recoil spring get nice and tight...DO NOT LET GO OF IT!...hold it in place and then JAM the starter/recoil unit in place (still tight) inside it's housing by either clamping it with a tool like vise grips or by sticking a screwdriver thru it and thru the vents in the cover. If you have ANOTHER person to help you...one of you hold it in place....and make sure it is lined up to where you can NOW insert the new lenth of pull rope. Always use new rope....Feed the end thru the hole in the recoil unit and tie it off, by wrapping it around itself outside the nylon hub and then screw the little self-tapping set screw back in holding the rope down. OK...then feed the opposite end into the hole in the front engine cover and attatch the T pull handle....Now mind you, you are still jammming or holding the recoil in place against the spring!...Now, unclamp it or unjam it and slowly let the recoil pull the NEW rope you just installed back onto the pulley. Make sure it is fastened well on top of the pulley around the nylon hub and also fastened well onto the T pull handle. That is it. Then reconnect your wires, put your throttle cable back thru the engine cover and reinstall the Torx screws in the cover...and you are doneervicing the recoil unitl

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, ou will have to lock up the engine. Remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or something so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers ranging from T-15 to T-25. Here are more details involving the starter/recoil assembly.
With the starter/recoil unit OFF the machine, with no rope in it, and no tension on it.....grasp the little nylon hub and turn it (clockwise is I recall) round and round 6-7 times until you feel the recoil spring get nice and tight...DO NOT LET GO OF IT!...hold it in place and then JAM the starter/recoil unit in place (still tight) inside it's housing by either clamping it with a tool like vise grips or by sticking a screwdriver thru it and thru the vents in the cover. If you have ANOTHER person to help you...one of you hold it in place....and make sure it is lined up to where you can NOW insert the new lenth of pull rope. Always use new rope....Feed the end thru the hole in the recoil unit and tie it off, by wrapping it around itself outside the nylon hub and then screw the little self-tapping set screw back in holding the rope down. OK...then feed the opposite end into the hole in the front engine cover and attatch the T pull handle....Now mind you, you are still jammming or holding the recoil in place against the spring!...Now, unclamp it or unjam it and slowly let the recoil pull the NEW rope you just installed back onto the pulley. Make sure it is fastened well on top of the pulley around the nylon hub and also fastened well onto the T pull handle. That is it. Then reconnect your wires, put your throttle cable back thru the engine cover and reinstall the Torx screws in the cover.

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers or a good flat-blade screwdriver.

Here is a condensed version of getting to the starter/recoil unit to inspect or repair.
Remove the tube that holds the flex drive from the end of the crankshaft. Lossen and remove the front cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carb. Remove the kill switch wire from the coil module. Remove clutch housing. Remove clutch, Remove flywheel. The recoil unit mates with the bottom of the flywheel and all the aforementioned parts are on the front side of the engine's crankshaft. Once you get the recoil unit off, you remove the old cord and turn the unit several times to "preload" tension on it. Insert the new cord into the guide holes and tie knots to lock it in place. The pull handle must be attatched too or when you let the recoil draw in the new rope, it will keep going and all tension will be lost. Reassemble all the above and good luck!

Unbolt the recoil and see if it will pull then. if it does remove the spark plug and grab the blade see if you can turn the engine over by hand

I would think that your engine control cable has gone bad. There is a brake on your flywheel and your engine control cable releases this brake, this cable is hooked to the handle that you have to hold down to start the engine. you can remove the engine cover and see the brake against the flywheel, pull the handle and see if the brake is releasing. If it is releasing then something in the recoil is defective. I hope this is of some help to you.

This reply is based on the following assumptions:
A Poulan PP2375LE (wildthing) Type 2
The starter recoil spring is unwound.
All components aer servicable

Poulan 2375LE Type 2 IPL
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/PWE/2375LE-Gas-Saw-Type-2/75.2375LE-Gas-Saw-Type-2.1.59.1.html
Starter components and reassembly order are illustrated on the "Handle, Chassis & Bar Assembly" detail.

If the spring needs rewound this is how I do it, there are other methods.
Recoil Spring Rewind
I invert and secure the housing and rewind the spring large coil to small (need eye protection, and both hands). I am right handed so I tension the spring enough to insert it inside the previous coil while holding what has already been installed with my left about 180° from my right hand. The tension will hold the spring in the housing once completely inserted. Then bend slightly the inner most part to engage the starter spool.

This illustrates proper pretension and rope installation:
Smalleng.com (about 3.5 minutes long and worth watching the entire video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRyy3MlsjVo

If yours is not a Type 2 you can find the correct IPL here:
Poulan.com
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html
The dash number of your serial number is the type.

I hope this was helpful
Lou