Freezer Freezes, but Ice/frost collects inside however the refrigerator side doesn't get cool enough! is this something I can easily fix?

Hello, would you happen to have the make and model number of your refrigerator? In a refrigerator the freezer side of the refrigerator is the only side that produces the cold. If your refrigerator side is not cool but your freezer side is one of the first things that you would check would be to open the freezer door and look along the rear wall of the freezer to see if you notice any frost or ice build up on the rear wall. If you did this is termed as a defrost issue and message me back that you do have this situation and I will instruct you how to diagnose this to correct this situation. If you had no ice/frost build up on the rear wall you would next assure that the evaporator fan is blowing air inside of your freezer. If you felt no air blowing inside of the freezer you would then remove the rear wall on the inside rear of the freezer by unscrewing the 1/4" screws. This would give you access to the evaporator coil and above the coil would be the evaporator fan motor. I will await your reply to your finds as to if there is any ice/ frost and if the evaporator fan is blowing air inside of the freezer before further diagnosing.
Thank you
Rick

probally jut a defrost sensor, inexpensive to replace

if your noticing frost on the back wall you have a defrost problem and need to address it immediatley before u get warm in freezer and refrigerator sides remeber that a refrigerator is just a cold air duct from the freezer.... defrost heater bimetal defrost thermostat ot timer defrost control is bad ...

The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.

This is due to your fridge not cooling correctly. When the temp drops low enough, condensation forms. When the cooling picks back up, it freezes. Make sure there is nothing blocking the door. Also check the weather strip around the door to ensure it's seated properly. Over time, these strips become wore out and out of of shape causing air to leak.

Check the fan and readjust temperature control to higher. Thanks.

check for a blockage. There is only one cooling section, divided by airflow for freezer / fridge.
Perhaps something sticky is in the vents, or the freezer section has poor airflow, resulting in ice formation.
Unplug the unit for several hours, clean out vents, and make sure freezer section has good airflow from the vents.

If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

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Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem