All the cold air comes from the freezer side so if the fridge side is not cooling then the baffle door is not opening up or it has accumilated ice in it and frozen up. I would try to unplug it for a hour or so with the doors open and let it thaw and then plug back up and let it run for a couple hours to see if that fixes it. If not then I would suggest having the baffle checked.
SOURCE: refrigerator compartment not cooling
If you are sure the fan in the freezer is running and you don't feel any air flow out of the top middle vent inside the fridge section, then the damper motor must be bad. The damper motor is behind that vent cover inside the fridge section.
SOURCE: Freezer works fine, fridge quit
I attempted to locate an answer to resolve the issue for you, but you have not provided me with enough information to access my service database. Based on your description of the issue, however, I will provide a genric answer. If the freezer is working fine then we must assume that none of the cold air is being distributed to the fresh food, (F.F.) compartment. This is accomplished by a fan in the freezer compartment blowing the cold air into the F.F. compartment. Inspect this fan to see if it is operational.(You may have to push in on the door switch to get it to operate). This switch could also be a suspect!
This airflow is controlled by 1. a damper control that mechanically adjusts to change the amount of airflow, and thusly the temperature.
2. An adjustable control that is human ccontrolled and does adjust itself.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0003.asp
Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
SOURCE: Change door opening direction on whirlpool fridge door
Here is a setp by step manual to reverce the doors on ther fridge. Refer to page 5 through 8 will sho you how. good luck. jon please rate.
http://www.whirlpool.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZUSECARE/GB9SHDXPB_Use%20and%20Care.pdf
SOURCE: freezer working fine but fridge wont go cold!
Hi
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Please revert for further assistance and Do rate the solution as "FixYa" if found useful.
Thanks
Rylee
145 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×